Rear Drums

[dlfrisch]

Had two of my rear brake drum studs installed into two of my drum bodies today. The machine shop that turned the drums down had to knock two studs out to turn the drum down. (I don’t know, it happened don't ask) I had to buy two new studs. I was told they had to be pressed in with a or about a 7 Ton press. When I took them back to the machine shop, the one that turned them down the man said, they (the new studs) fit in just fine even along with the side tab in place. They didn’t need to be pressed in, they are flat with the surface of the drum, so we both decided to spot weld a couple of small dots on each. I am very hopeful they hold. I don’t want to lose a lug to or back down into the drum, if I have to remove the rim/tire out on the road. I would have to remove the drum and start over just to get the loose bolt-stud out.

My question to all, how much distance do I have so the drum doesn’t hid, rub or crape the brake shoe parts. I haven’t tried the drum on yet. It’s late and we just got home. Looks like it is a real close distance between the drum and the brake shoe parts. All of the other stud bolts are flat with the drum itself. I will check tomorrow. I may have to grind some of the weld off. I hope the weld fussed to the metal down below the surface. It seems like there should be a spacer washer between the drum (before or on the grease seal side) and the actual axle housing to hold the drum out away from the brake shoes.

I sure look for help .....it's a real neat learning experience. HAPPY NEW YEAR TO ALL OF MY FORD BARN ACQUAINTANCES !

[jw hash]

first they should of pressed them. second if the weld on the head of the studs is sticking up above the surface of the hub the pins on the emergency brake band might rub.

[Charles Coe]

They really don't need to be pressed in but they should be swaged on the drum side. Unfortunately many machine shops today do not have the swaging tool to do this. I don't think it's the best way to do it but many studs get welded to the hub on the inside. Some people grind a notch for the weld.

[Bob C]

This link to Vince's site shows how it should be done.
http://www.fordgarage.com/pages/swaging.htm

Bob

[700rpm]

Should have been swaged with a 20 ton press. Your shop doesn't know how to work on Model A's. Find one that does.

Correction: 30 ton press. (Thanks Tom and Mitch)

[Mitch//pa]

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they need to be swedged to do it properly... you can buy the tool then have the shop swedge it with a 30 ton press....
other than the clearance issues and weakening the weld by grinding it down, there is more of a risk of having the stud spin when removing a lug nut.

is this the same shop that charges 150 to cut the drums?

Happy New Year dlfrisch

[Tom Wesenberg]

A 20 ton press is the bare minimum, and a 30 ton would be better.
I wonder if they knocked out the 2 studs to mount it to a face plate (because they don't know how to work on Model A drums)? If so, I doubt the cut it true, and you might wind up with pulsing brakes. You need to send it to a Model A dealer or find a good brake shop.

No thrust washer is used between the seal and bearing. Press in the seal just far enough to get the snap ring in place.

[dlfrisch]

Thanks to all,
Mitch//pa, yes- same machine shop.

I will see what happens today, when I proceed to installing the drums. I hope the machine shop didn't ruin the two drums and they are cut properly.

[J Franklin]

At least Cast drums are readily available if you don't get satisfactory results. If you buy new, get them already with the studs installed.

[Tom Wesenberg]

Originally Posted by dlfrisch

Thanks to all,
Mitch//pa, yes- same machine shop.

I will see what happens today, when I proceed to installing the drums. I hope the machine shop didn't ruin the two drums and they are cut properly.

That's too bad that they overcharged you and didn't do it the correct way. I hope it works out for you, but at your expense, you taught us to send them to the right people.

[Gary Gregory]

I hope the shop cut the swedged area away from the old studs before knocking them out....if not they may have really messed up your hubs.

[Larry Seemann]

Another thing to look at is: if they didn't swage the studs the shoulder will be sticking out on the outside of the drum preventing the wheel from seating on the drum. A bad situation and for heaven's sake don't drill the holes in the wheel out to allow for the stud shoulders.

[Tom Endy]

It is good advice to never take a Model A or a Model A assembly to a modern commercial shop unless they speak Model A. They will usually over charge you and likely destroy something during their learning process.

A commercial brake shop is not equipped with the proper tools and holding fixtures and can easily warp the hub or crack a cast iron drum. When they go to turn the drums they have no problem turning the front drums using their tapered cones, but they are not set up to turn the rear drums and they will likely jury rig the tapered cones against the drum and do more damage than good.

Best to check with your local Model A club and get a reference to "the guy". There is always "a guy" for every aspect of Model A repair or restoration.

As far as brakes, my recommendation for "the guy" is Randy Gross, the late Mel Gross' son. He advertises and post on fordbarn, and he knows what he is doing.

Tom Endy

[ian Simpson]

Originally Posted by Tom Wesenberg

A 20 ton press is the bare minimum, and a 30 ton would be better.
I wonder if they knocked out the 2 studs to mount it to a face plate (because they don't know how to work on Model A drums)? If so, I doubt the cut it true, and you might wind up with pulsing brakes. You need to send it to a Model A dealer or find a good brake shop.

No thrust washer is used between the seal and bearing. Press in the seal just far enough to get the snap ring in place.

Daryl, my tame machinist has a 30 ton press and told me that the studs swaged at a pressure of 22 tons, give or take a little.

I supplied him a swaging tool similar to that sold by Snyders. He built the platform which supported the hub from thick walled pipe.

Ian