Two tooth steerg box

[Joe K]

0.100 short (long) might not make that much of a difference - but you'll know when you go to put the light switch in and you can't compress the spring enough to put the keeper and spyder in place. Plus, you'll have a 0.100 gap at the top between the wheel and the spark/throttle sectors.

Worse though, with your installation methodology (brute force) is it possible to have bent the steering shaft? Even slightly may be fatal to your effort. Bent creates a situation where the worm "wobbles" between the bearings - can't be adjusted tight against the sector at all positions of the wheel - and makes the "equalization" process more difficult and may result in unequal, or at least too much free play as you try to adjust at that "just off binding" position in the center of travel.

Re-reading above I see you've encountered EXACTLY the problems I have anticipated. Keep in mind that free play at "center" should be zero (tight but just a skosh beyond binding for turning the wheel) and increases (and is equal either side) as you go out on either side of center.

To remove the lower bearing cup, insert a small punch in the two screw holes where the light switch receiver is normally bolted. By alternately hammering lightly you can "walk" the bearing out of it's seat until it falls out.

Joe K