New block update 3.

[Tod]

I was finally able to get some time to do more machining yesterday and this afternoon. We poured a special aluminum Cleveland block this morning so I assembled that mold yesterday and did some machining. I ended up getting the block out of the machine it was in so I could put the final touches on the bottom end in another machine. I need to bore the oil pump hole and back spot the 4 main cap bosses, as well as cut the main journals so they can have babbitt poured in them. Don Snyder lent me an oil pump to test fit and gave me a copy of the pump blue print, too. The main caps fit nicely. After the few operations in this machine I will do the cam, main oil galley, oil filler hole, dipstick hole, and the oil holes from the main galley to the crank journals. It is getting very close. Don Snyder agreed to allow this block to be displayed on an engine stand in his showroom when everything is bolted together. Should I have Prus Jr. paint it or not? Tod

[Russ/40]

Painted shows what it could be. I'd rather see what it is, unpainted, or just as you would ship it from sales at Snyders. The updates are exciting. Pictures please

[Mike V. Florida]

Originally Posted by Russ/40

Painted shows what it could be. I'd rather see what it is, unpainted, or just as you would ship it from sales at Snyders. The updates are exciting. Pictures please

How about Clear on one side (what it is) and green on the other (what it could be)?

[Dodge]

Henry's first Model A Motor was painted but I think it would look great either way,
painted or natural. Just don't make it a cutaway ha ha.....

[Tod]

Maybe I could put painted parts on the bare machined block.

[Mike V. Florida]

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Originally Posted by Tod

Maybe I could put painted parts on the bare machined block.

That sounds right!!!

[Russ/40]

Originally Posted by Tod

Maybe I could put painted parts on the bare machined block.

I like that idea!

[tbirdtbird]

I almost wonder if the block should be displayed as a raw block, no peripherals added, and not painted. Oil it down so it doesn't rust.

This way any viewers could sniff out all that fine machining you have done and really appreciate it!

Nothing like the gleam of a freshly bored block!

[Tod]

Originally Posted by tbirdtbird

I almost wonder if the block should be displayed as a raw block, no peripherals added, and not painted. Oil it down so it doesn't rust.

This way any viewers could sniff out all that fine machining you have done and really appreciate it!

Nothing like the gleam of a freshly bored block!

I would, but from the start, if you will recall, there were a couple of things that keep it from being perfect. I've been doing this a long time and it displeases me to no end to have something miss the mark in the slightest. While this is fine to machine up, bolt things to, and build and run, it is not good enough for me to display proudly so I would rather build it, display it, and maybe show it at a show or two.

I really wasn't intending this first one to be this useable since the cores and mold were really just for test fitting cores as I went along. But, it came out good enough to see how far it can go. I have some changes I want to make and then I will be ready for production.

I have been working with another core shop on a brand new core technology that will make my good mold assembly process even better, so I look forward to getting that under way. I poured an aluminum Cleveland block for a race car in Australia with the process yesterday and it was just great.

Things will only get better from here. Sorry to disappoint.

Tod

[tbirdtbird]

There is anything BUT disappointment around here, Tod!!!!!!

[Tom Wesenberg]

Originally Posted by tbirdtbird

There is anything BUT disappointment around here, Tod!!!!!!

I'm disappointed that it isn't going into my car.

[Tod]

Originally Posted by Tom Wesenberg

I'm disappointed that it isn't going into my car.

So you have to settle for the second one.

Yesterday, after cutting the mains to diameter, I test fit (bolted down) the oil pan over the oil pump and rear main cap. That completes bolting on all external bolt on pieces. Seems like it has taken forever to machine it to this point but it feels good to finally get here.

Oh, yeah, I also fit tin the distributor drive gear and spring.

Tod

[Mitch//pa]

wow amazing

[MBI Houston]

Amazing story! So what tasks are left to do before you can start it up?

[Tod]

Originally Posted by MBI Houston

Amazing story! So what tasks are left to do before you can start it up?

1. Back spotface the front 4 main cap bolt holes.
2. Finish the rear of the thrust.
3. Cut the oil filler tube hole.
4. Dipstick hole.
5. Cam journals.
6. Valve seat inserts.
7. Main oil galley.
8. Drill crank oilers and cam oilers.

From there we can pour crank journal babbitt, hone the cylinders, and start assembly.

Then, I have to hope I can sell a few. Interest in them doesn't equal sales.

Tod

[Model A Man]

Originally Posted by Tod

1. Back spotface the front 4 main cap bolt holes.
2. Finish the rear of the thrust.
3. Cut the oil filler tube hole.
4. Dipstick hole.
5. Cam journals.
6. Valve seat inserts.
7. Main oil galley.
8. Drill crank oilers and cam oilers.

From there we can pour crank journal babbitt, hone the cylinders, and start assembly.

Then, I have to hope I can sell a few. Interest in them doesn't equal sales.

Tod

I don't think you will have any problems selling them. Depending on what the price will be and if it ends up being within my budget I will want two and may be even a third one.