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#1 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Eagle Bend, MN
Posts: 2,081
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I put a new tractor 6V battery from Fleet Farm and a Fun Projects voltage regulator 14 years ago last spring. Both are still going strong. I know they had quit building the FP regulator, I haven't kept up, are they back on the market yet? I don't use a battery maintainer, just jump in and start it in the spring, shut it off for the last time in the fall. Store my A in an unheated shed. So, I consider that to be a true testament to the FP regulator and Fleet Farm batteries.
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"There are some that can destroy an anvil with a teaspoon and shouldn't be allowed to touch anything resembling a tool." |
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#2 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2018
Location: Mebane NC
Posts: 2,849
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The EVRs on the market today get installed in the generator rather than the cutout.
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#3 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: VA
Posts: 1,808
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#4 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Fredericksburg, Virginia
Posts: 1,088
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Mike Hill's EVR is currently available for both long generators and Powerhouses. I've installed about a dozen of them, including in my own cars. They work perfectly.
Steve
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Restored Ford 6 & 12 volt generators |
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#5 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Western North Carolina
Posts: 5,873
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You will not find any generators with third brush regulation on any cars made after the Model A. (Maybe one or two.) The voltage regulator will make the battery last a long time. Back in the day we would get a voltage regulator from a more modern Ford and adopt it to our Model A's.
Henry's aversion to any electrical mechanisms may have been why the Model A had a generator with third brush regulation. It may also be why the Model T had such an antique ignition system up until the very end.
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A is for apple, green as the sky. Step on the gas, for tomorrow I die. Forget the brakes, they really don't work. The clutch always sticks, and starts with a jerk. My car grows red hair, and flies through the air. Driving's a blast, a blast from the past. |
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#6 | |
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: San Diego, CA
Posts: 474
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Quote:
From that thread, here is a link directly to his website where he discusses the development of his Fun Projects type replacement regulator, and from there you can go shopping (for both Model A & Model T). Edit: took a look at his website, looks like the Model A regulator is out of stock, with no backorder option : ( |
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#7 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2018
Location: Mebane NC
Posts: 2,849
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I was talking to rackops recently about the potential for a really cool accessory. It would be a battery housed in a replica original case, but instead of lead-acid it would be LiFePO4 cells. These have much higher energy density than lead-acid, so the cells would take up less than half the case. Then in the rest of the case you could put a circuit board that would intelligently charge the cells, including a voltage regulator. That way you could just use a stock generator.
It would also be user-serviceable, so if the cells wear out you could swap in new ones. And it would only weigh about 20 lbs. Six 38120S cells configured as 2s3p would get you 6.4V with 30Ah capacity and 300 cranking amps, with the ability to absorb the full 20A output of the generator. |
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#8 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Western North Carolina
Posts: 5,873
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If you have a 12 volt car you can buy a Li-ion battery on Amazon starting at about $140. These batteries have amazing cold cranking amperage. I think there are 6 volt Li-ion batteries too.
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A is for apple, green as the sky. Step on the gas, for tomorrow I die. Forget the brakes, they really don't work. The clutch always sticks, and starts with a jerk. My car grows red hair, and flies through the air. Driving's a blast, a blast from the past. |
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#9 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2018
Location: Mebane NC
Posts: 2,849
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There are 6V LiFePO4 batteries but they're built to run golf carts, they don't have the cranking amps a Model A would need.
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#10 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Western North Carolina
Posts: 5,873
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Here is a 6 volt Li-ion battery with 680 cold crank amps.
https://www.wholesalebatteries.net/p...-6-12-warranty
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A is for apple, green as the sky. Step on the gas, for tomorrow I die. Forget the brakes, they really don't work. The clutch always sticks, and starts with a jerk. My car grows red hair, and flies through the air. Driving's a blast, a blast from the past. |
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#11 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2018
Location: Mebane NC
Posts: 2,849
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Pricey, though, wouldn’t sell to this market.
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#12 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Qld, Australia
Posts: 4,529
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my 33 and 34 have 3 brush generators .
Lawrie |
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#13 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: PASADENA, CA
Posts: 1,931
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It was not until the later '30s that ford went to a 2-brush generator.
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#14 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Calgary, Alberta, Canada
Posts: 224
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There are a couple of challenges with the cutout style EVR:
* the recommended third brush setting is 5 Amps which limits the generator output * the cutout style EVR is highly susceptible to damage if there is a high reverse current put through it (eg. polarizing the generator) The "Tom Wesenberg (TW) Style EVR", similar to mine, does not have these limitations. Further, if the generator is disconnected from the battery, this EVR will protect the generator. The TW style regulates the current to the field coils to vary output voltage to 7.1V similar to the early Ford electromechanical voltage regulator (steady car ammeter reading). The Cutout style "shorts" the excess current to ground once the generator output exceeds 7.1V thereby cycling the battery charge rate (varying car ammeter reading). My understanding is that Jeff Stevenson (modeltstarters.com) is no longer pursuing a cutout style voltage regulator for the Model A. ...according to a mutual friend that was testing one. |
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#15 | |
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Guthrie, OK
Posts: 1,247
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#16 | |
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Eagle Bend, MN
Posts: 2,081
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I set my generator output to 16 amps at fast idle with the stock cutout, which was nearly max on my generator. Then installed the regulator-in-the-cutout. It charges +1 amp with lights on low, -2 amps with lights on high. Std bulbs. After starting, the current jumps to 10 or 12 amps, then tapers off as the battery rises. Been flawless for 14 years, battery still cranks well. The directions I got with mine said to set at 16 amps. It came from Mac's. The nice thing about the cutout regulator is the simplicity. Not sure what the advantage of a lithium or AGM battery would be, if you take care of a tractor battery they will last many years, and they're cheap... relatively. Getting close to $100
Quote:
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"There are some that can destroy an anvil with a teaspoon and shouldn't be allowed to touch anything resembling a tool." Last edited by eagle; 08-05-2025 at 07:30 PM. |
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