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#21 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: NJ
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Thanks, Neal. I was actually thinking that I seemed to recall there was something about the '32 rear that was different than '40.
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#22 |
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Join Date: Feb 2022
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The way McGee mounted them is not the original place and maybe there is not either rear 32, or ?
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#23 | |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Central Coast, Calif.
Posts: 868
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![]() The rear end is an early 32, as noted by the round torque tube flange as well as the dog legged radius rods. |
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#24 |
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Join Date: Feb 2022
Posts: 460
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I will not Z frame as I dont get that low as McGee.
But an idea to mount them, wonder if the arms was 32. Picked up the 34 axle today and its one perfect axle, all cutterpinns std and inside the drums and backing plates it look brand new, I has never seen anything that mint before on old Ford parts. |
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#25 | |
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Join Date: May 2015
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#26 |
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Location: Southern France
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#27 |
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Join Date: Apr 2018
Location: northeast coast
Posts: 220
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interesting how a thread, title which might hold a modicum of interest, opens up like a cornucopia of knowledge!
these photos throughout help me understand a myriad of questions i had about the interface of parts in this area of suspensions. thanks, sid |
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#28 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Yucaipa, CA
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#29 |
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Join Date: Feb 2022
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The 32 shock arms is more straight than a 34 but both is 7" long, its hard to say what this on the McGee roadster, and if its possible has it this way on a std frame/rear cross ( not a Z frame )
I like the idea. |
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#30 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Yucaipa, CA
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I have lots of cars but "none of them" are done Those were all bought and put away for my retirements years to work on but then after working on cars for 30-years I didn't want to work on my own cars. Then I had a stroke on top of it all. I don't get rid of any of them because I might just change my mind and start working on them. It could happen, maybe??? First off, I have to remember what's all is out in the garage. I'm only 63 and forget I have half cars I have until I see them. I was going to restore a car a year when I retired. I could do the paint and the mechanic's but then had I my back fused (didn't wok) and then a stroke, I just don't feel like working on cars anymore. I would have never thought that day would come, I love working on cars but something broke in my head, literally. I think it was the main artery to the car restoration section.
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#31 | |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Yucaipa, CA
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I have photos of the McGee Roadster around here some place. I was at SoCal Speed Shop years and years ago. The McGee roadster was in the back having touch up paint work done. I think it got scratched removing the top and it was back at SoCal for a touch up. That restoration was absolutely beautiful. Except when I crawled under it there were some modern bolts with grade markings on them. They didn't exist in 1948, so minus a point for incorrect bolts. I don't what it is, but I have a thing for t original bolts. My dad was in the Model A club in the 1960s. There were two friends that were disassembling Model A's and selling the parts. My dad went over to their backyard and dug up coffee cans of Ford thick headed bolts. I still have those cans of Ford bolts. |
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#32 | |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: NJ
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I have multiple storage boxes that I organize them and pull from the boxes when I need an original bolt. |
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#33 |
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Join Date: Feb 2022
Posts: 460
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Tim, sounds like sweat wine to me.
Flathead Fever. I hope you get the inspiration back. Whatever one do inspirstion is a wondergul thing. But life change. I has been dragracing in stock elinimanstor since the 80’s and just before Cowid I started on a new engine project. But under this years I got other inspirations, old tractors, Bonneville, then hotrods. So inspiration get the Hemi Cuda back on strip has been low even as the engine is done, but parts was hard to get and got really expensive so it might strike me out the fun out of it plus 30 years in it. But old tractors got me restore 3 of them to original bolts and nuts and you are correct, old bolts is actually a key and a big to my hottod plans. But for others its just ’bolts’. |
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#34 |
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Join Date: Feb 2022
Posts: 460
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More on rearends.
This spring mounts ( se picture ) I think it’s for a 37-41 axle/spring, but is that equal to the 32 ? Or how does they look ? As I bought the 33/34 axle ( I call it my ‘late’ 32.. ) but I still has not make up my mind if I will use the 37. As I started thread it was deal I saw the Rolling Bones used, and moved in bones. Many mean this was never a thing guys did back then but I just noted Duan Spencer had that axle/spring on his roadster. Maybe it was build in the 50’s, and I can’t tell on picture if the bones is moved in, to me it might look that way. In my build I like to use Henry stiff and era correct speedparts but when it comes to work, I’m not that sensitive what was common or not, if it could be done it’s Ok for me. I guess the (32) 33-34 axle is more period correct and as strong as the 37-41 axles ( maybe piniong bearing is a tad less in diameter ) Se Rolling Bones 34 coupe with the set-up, start at 7 minutes in movie. The Rolling Bones Hot Rod Shop - The Poteet 1934 Coupe - YouTube |
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#35 | |
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#36 |
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Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Central Ohio
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The late 32 through 34 rears are a great candidate for your car - given the curved rear-spring that fits the stock rear cross-member. Also, the rear will be located (front-to-back) where it should be.
Original Lever Shocks: I'm not a fan of original 32 shocks - have had two sets rebuilt and they did not last long, nor did they actually do much for the ride. The Rotoshim stuff is really nice - though VERY pricey. Tube Shocks: They are obviously far cheaper and easier to get than any sort of lever shock - and 'yes' they are period correct for what you're doing. a) Do not try to mount them behind the axle with a 32-34 spring setup . . . there is NOT enough room for them to fit and be at the correct angles for best performance. b) The cast shock adapters that folks sell that pickup two rear backing plate bolts are designed for later rears - the "clocking" of the backing plates is different in 32 - 34, so these "bolt on" lower shock hangers will not work. I know this because I bought 2 sets of them . . . they're in the box. Also, as noted above, there is no room for the tube shocks behind the axle. c) When I helped a friend with his period correct 32 roadster, I decided to go a completely different route. I made lower shock hangers that bolted to the same bolts that the radius rods bolted to and then make a tubular cross-member that bolted to the frame and was used for the upper mounts. His rear end was an early 32, so the radius rod mounts were straight - though I will make a similar setup for my 32 Cabriolet that has the later 32 rear with the angled mounts. Here is a pic - this should give you an idea: 2025-06-09_12-34-43.jpg |
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#37 | |
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#38 |
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Join Date: Apr 2018
Location: northeast coast
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Gulp!
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#39 |
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Join Date: Feb 2022
Posts: 460
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Yes modern shocks are better.
Its no problem for me ( era correct... ) add up a tube as you did. I cant see it on the picture but is this a early 32 or a late 32, 33/34 ? The one they sell is for a shock behind axle and I don't know it they is made for the early 32 (?) that has a straight forwatd plate on axle for the bones. |
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#40 |
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Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Central Ohio
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Hey Hank - not sure you're talking to me, but the rear in my picture is an early 32 with the straight radius rod mounts.
I will make similar lower mounts for the late 32 rear in my Cabriolet (the radius rods are straight and the bracket on the housing is angled). The nice thing about this setup is that it fits really well, you can set the shock angle to be what is optimal for the shock, and it actually looks better from the rear. The tubular cross member is totally easy to make and in the case of the car shown, I made it a bolt-in setup. Here is a link to my Instagram account - where you'll see a video of the setup. Note: The frame is up on my lift, so the rear end is hanging much lower than when it is at ride height. https://www.instagram.com/p/CvD45RXA2R_/ |
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