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#1 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Santa Cruz
Posts: 395
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When I bought my coupe it came with a set on new floorboards, plus a box of Drake's floorboard seals. The wooden floorboards fit nicely -- but the fit of the seals is pretty sloppy. They're also quite thick.
Anyone have any experience with these seals? I'm thinking I could cut them up to fit them better, then glue them to the floorboard before bolting them into place. Has anyone else wrestled with these?
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#2 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: SF Bay Area
Posts: 7,634
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Yep, I think you got this.
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Alan |
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#3 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Queensland, Australia
Posts: 12,568
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Drake's floorboard seals for 1935 Ford Coupe. |
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#4 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Wildwood, MO. (near St. Louis)
Posts: 1,850
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Detonator, There is a fair amount of evidence that Ford used an anti-squeak material as a seal for 35 and some 36 passenger car floor boards. This anti squeak was stapled on to the wooden floor board as the images attached show.
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#5 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Above the gnat line in Georgia
Posts: 7,119
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You're right on Don, as usual. That rubber seal thingie is a Back-order Bob product.
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Life is like a roll of toilet paper. The closer to the end, the faster it goes. It is better to be seen, than viewed. "We sleep safe in our beds because rough men stand ready in the night to visit violence on those who would do us harm". |
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#6 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Oregon
Posts: 1,662
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Checking my 1935 Ford parts book shows a 48-700364-B floorboard dust seal, my 1936 Ford parts book shows a 68-700364 (RH) and 68-700365 (LH). As the floorboards are asymmetric that would imply the 48- is a "universal strip" and the 68- are form fit. Note that the 48-700364-B implies there was a 48-700364 or 48-700364-A, so who knows what all changes were made (Until Don mines that information from the archives). My conclusion... you have a 1935 floorboard and a 1936 seal, and the two do not play well together. |
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#7 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Queensland, Australia
Posts: 12,568
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Photos supplied by Don Rogers. |
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#8 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: Minnesota, Florida Keys
Posts: 12,132
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I have nothing to add to this thread except that I am constantly amazed at the tremendous amount of knowledge on this forum. In addition to the known experts, many others are also very knowledgeable.
Congratulations to all of you! |
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#9 | |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Near Rising Sun, Maryland
Posts: 10,876
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Quote:
One of my '35's has a sheet metal toe board on the left, driver's side, and I don't believe there is, or ever was, any anti-squeak material around this board.
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John "Never give up on what you really want to do. The person with big dreams is more powerful than one with all the facts". Albert Einstein |
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#10 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Wildwood, MO. (near St. Louis)
Posts: 1,850
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John, I believe that the steel floor board also used anti-squeak material. They used rivets instead of staples to hold on the material. Those rivets are still evident in the enclosed backside view of the steel board.
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#11 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: southeastern Michigan
Posts: 10,670
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Don,
The steel toe board in my early '35 phaeton, of which I am the second owner, had much of the riveted-on webbing intact. |
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#12 | |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2015
Posts: 11,643
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"John, I believe that the steel floor board also used anti-squeak material. They used rivets instead of staples to hold on the material. Those rivets are still evident in the enclosed backside view of the steel board."- Don Rogers
Quote:
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#13 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Santa Cruz
Posts: 395
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Update: I was able to make the BD rubber seals work -- after cutting them up, punching holes where they were missing, etc etc. Thanks to Don's original diagram I edge-stapled the seals instead of face-stapling them, which gave me a good flush edge all the way around the top of the floorboard. Thanks everyone for your insight! Now...on to the transmission cover.
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#14 | |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Near Rising Sun, Maryland
Posts: 10,876
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Quote:
Don, thanks for the clarification on this. I'll check that sheet metal toe board to see if I can find any remnants of the anti-squeak material, possibly still attached at those rivets.
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John "Never give up on what you really want to do. The person with big dreams is more powerful than one with all the facts". Albert Einstein |
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