What is a good head stud for Offy heads

[Gnico]

I am using offenhauser heads on my 8BA mild street build. The problem I am having is there seems to be no middle ground on price. ARP studs are nearly $500 and the cheap versions ($99 Speedway) have such awful reviews for fit and proper length, I am scared to order them. Does anyone know of a stud that is some what reasonable in price yet of quality enough to do the job.

[flatjack9]

Best studs are from Roy Naciwiecz, but I would use bolts.

[CSArno]

whatever you use, also use flat washers so you dont dig into the heads with the nut or bolt head.

[Tim Brown]

I used studs from Mac's. No complaints here...

[Charlie ny]

I have used the studs from Mac Van Pelt on the last motors and been happy.
I must confess 60 or so years ago when we bought our oil in bottles at Western
Auto we never hesitated mixing studs and bolts to attach a head and if we were short
a bolt or two we'd run down to Arthurs Hardware (they had 7/16-14 no grade hex head
fasteners). $500, really ?
Charlie ny

[GOSFAST]

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Originally Posted by Gnico

I am using offenhauser heads on my 8BA mild street build. The problem I am having is there seems to be no middle ground on price. ARP studs are nearly $500 and the cheap versions ($99 Speedway) have such awful reviews for fit and proper length, I am scared to order them. Does anyone know of a stud that is some what reasonable in price yet of quality enough to do the job.

Not sure where you got the ARP price from but the kit is nowhere near $500.00, and it includes the studs, nuts, and washers. We are an ARP w/d dealer.

The bolts aren't a bad idea but it's easier to "seal-up" the studs in my opinion?

One thing I would add, you should know the exact lengths on all the bolts/studs you need, we find different vendors tend to mfr with different heights on the head holes.

Thanks, Gary in N.Y.

P.S. I also recommend using washers under the heads of the bolts if this is where you end up but different ones than are found in ARP's stud kits. See the photo below here. They are "special" for this particular platform. You almost cannot see them on the finished assembly. They are chamfered for the head bolts and run about $50.00/set.

[Gnico]

Originally Posted by GOSFAST

Not sure where you got the ARP price from but the kit is nowhere near $500.00, and it includes the studs, nuts, and washers. We are an ARP w/d dealer.

The bolts aren't a bad idea but it's easier to "seal-up" the studs in my opinion?

One thing I would add, you should know the exact lengths on all the bolts/studs you need, we find different vendors tend to mfr with different heights on the head holes.

Thanks, Gary in N.Y.

P.S. I also recommend using washers under the heads of the bolts if this is where you end up but different ones than are found in ARP's stud kits. See the photo below here. They are "special" for this particular platform. You almost cannot see them on the finished assembly. They are chamfered for the head bolts and run about $50.00/set.

Here is a link to the $5oo set (actual cost $489 there on sale). If you sell or know of a dealer that sells for less I would sure be interested.
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/ARP-15...ads,88074.html

[KiWinUS]

Gary ... "Very" nice pieces !!!!
Cheers
Tony

[Krylon32]

I have used the 99.00 head stud set from Speedway on several motors with no problems to date.

[jonf]

They are chamfered for the head bolts and run about $50.00/set.

I have the ARP setup. Does the chamfer on the washer go up or down?

[Gnico]

Originally Posted by Krylon32

I have used the 99.00 head stud set from Speedway on several motors with no problems to date.

Have they been used on Alum heads like Offenhauser or Edelbrock, the problem with the cheap set seems to arise when used with those types of heads.

I prefer a stud and I know about the washers. I also prefer a stainless steel acorn nut for the cap. Most of the reviews on the lower priced studs complain about loose fitting and the length not being correct.

I am only asking if anyone knows of a better deal and if so point me to it. I am not here to discuss the merits of bolts over studs.

[Gnico]

Originally Posted by GOSFAST

Not sure where you got the ARP price from but the kit is nowhere near $500.00, and it includes the studs, nuts, and washers. We are an ARP w/d dealer.

The bolts aren't a bad idea but it's easier to "seal-up" the studs in my opinion?

One thing I would add, you should know the exact lengths on all the bolts/studs you need, we find different vendors tend to mfr with different heights on the head holes.

Thanks, Gary in N.Y.

P.S. I also recommend using washers under the heads of the bolts if this is where you end up but different ones than are found in ARP's stud kits. See the photo below here. They are "special" for this particular platform. You almost cannot see them on the finished assembly. They are chamfered for the head bolts and run about $50.00/set.

If you are a dealer what is the price I can buy them from you for? Your picture shows a bolt, I am interested in the studs.

[Ol' Ron]

Bolts with harden washers and 7 thread engagement. Grad e #5 will be OK, but you'll feel better with grade#8 torque to 45 ft/lbs for 3 heat cycles.

[GOSFAST]

Originally Posted by KiWinUS

Gary ... "Very" nice pieces !!!!
Cheers
Tony

Thanks, Ton', we sell an extremely high number of those washers, they go on every 100% stock-appearing resto we do. SBC's have 34 pieces per build, BBC's have 32, and the Flatheads have 48 (normally). there are many others also but these are the most popular!

Originally Posted by jonf

They are chamfered for the head bolts and run about $50.00/set.

I have the ARP setup. Does the chamfer on the washer go up or down?

If you are using studs the washers don't require any chamfer, chamfers are only necessary with bolts. Most ARP stud kits come w/o the chamfered washers.

Originally Posted by Gnico

Have they been used on Alum heads like Offenhauser or Edelbrock, the problem with the cheap set seems to arise when used with those types of heads.

I prefer a stud and I know about the washers. I also prefer a stainless steel acorn nut for the cap. Most of the reviews on the lower priced studs complain about loose fitting and the length not being correct.

I am only asking if anyone knows of a better deal and if so point me to it. I am not here to discuss the merits of bolts over studs.

I can give you a fair price on the ARP set but not until Monday, this is when I'll be at the shop again! Like I stated earlier, you need to know the exact lengths needed. You measure the heights of ALL the head bolt holes and add about 1.500" to the numbers for the o/a lengths. On the Offy heads I keep here (24 studs) there are 14 holes that measure 2.000" and 10 that measure 1.312". Given these numbers the studs would be 3.500" for the longs and 2.812" for the shorts. The black number should have been 2.750"

The stud bottoms work best when they are about .750"/.800" long to go into the deck surface. Care needs to be taken with the few above the heat-crossover. The ARP studs are available in either the short bottoms (.750") or the long bottoms (1.000") see the photo below, depends on how they are ordered. You can use the longer ones but a few will need to be shortened.

Thanks, Gary in N.Y.

P.S.Building these for a living over here I would NOT use any other studs than the ARP line, it's the way it is here. I need to know I have the best fasteners available to stand behind any build!

[uncle max]

Originally Posted by GOSFAST

Thanks, Ton', we sell an extremely high number of those washers, they go on every 100% stock-appearing resto we do. SBC's have 34 pieces per build, BBC's have 32, and the Flatheads have 48 (normally). there are many others also but these are the most popular!



If you are using studs the washers don't require any chamfer, chamfers are only necessary with bolts. Most ARP stud kits come w/o the chamfered washers.



I can give you a fair price on the ARP set but not until Monday, this is when I'll be at the shop again! Like I stated earlier, you need to know the exact lengths needed. You measure the heights of ALL the head bolt holes and add about 1.500" to the numbers for the o/a lengths. On the Offy heads I keep here (24 studs) there are 14 holes that measure 2.000" and 10 that measure 1.312". Given these numbers the studs would be 3.500" for the longs and 2.812" for the shorts.

The stud bottoms work best when they are about .750"/.800" long to go into the deck surface. Care needs to be taken with the few above the heat-crossover. The ARP studs are available in either the short bottoms (.750") or the long bottoms (1.000") see the photo below, depends on how they are ordered. You can use the longer ones but a few will need to be shortened.

Thanks, Gary in N.Y.

P.S.Building these for a living over here I would NOT use any other studs than the ARP line, it's the way it is here. I need to know I have the best fasteners available to stand behind any build!

Do your ARP studs have the Allen head feature in the top?

[Gnico]

Originally Posted by GOSFAST

Thanks, Ton', we sell an extremely high number of those washers, they go on every 100% stock-appearing resto we do. SBC's have 34 pieces per build, BBC's have 32, and the Flatheads have 48 (normally). there are many others also but these are the most popular!



If you are using studs the washers don't require any chamfer, chamfers are only necessary with bolts. Most ARP stud kits come w/o the chamfered washers.



I can give you a fair price on the ARP set but not until Monday, this is when I'll be at the shop again! Like I stated earlier, you need to know the exact lengths needed. You measure the heights of ALL the head bolt holes and add about 1.500" to the numbers for the o/a lengths. On the Offy heads I keep here (24 studs) there are 14 holes that measure 2.000" and 10 that measure 1.312". Given these numbers the studs would be 3.500" for the longs and 2.812" for the shorts.

The stud bottoms work best when they are about .750"/.800" long to go into the deck surface. Care needs to be taken with the few above the heat-crossover. The ARP studs are available in either the short bottoms (.750") or the long bottoms (1.000") see the photo below, depends on how they are ordered. You can use the longer ones but a few will need to be shortened.

Thanks, Gary in N.Y.

P.S.Building these for a living over here I would NOT use any other studs than the ARP line, it's the way it is here. I need to know I have the best fasteners available to stand behind any build!

Thanks Gary, I will PM you.

[GOSFAST]

Originally Posted by uncle max

Do your ARP studs have the Allen head feature in the top?

Hi "Max", some of our kits have the "hex", some don't. It depends on when they were assembled, the "hexes" weren't around when we built some of our kits.

The Flatheads now all have them! (See the photo below)

I never cared for them, after the studs are in service for some years trying to remove them with an Allen key is all but useless. They "round-out" or break the wrenches? If you look at the photo (stud/poly-lock) the best method to take them out is simply use a 7/16-20 poly-lock, much easier, they can also be installed with them?

Thanks, Gary in N.Y.

P.S. To be fair with respect to Speedway's pricing, we do not include the "acorn" nuts in our kits, not sure where they would be costwise??

[joe plumber]

Use speedway also

[Ol' Ron]

And people wonder why it's so expensive to build a flathead??

[HOTROD_WILLIE]

Originally Posted by Tim Brown

I used studs from Mac's. No complaints here...

I bought some head bolts from Mac's they were out spec. had to redie them.