Starting mystery solved. Repo distributor

[Wick]

A reproduction distributor was installed in a friend's A.
Car would start, die and wouldn't start again unless you ran paper through the points.
Now look at the pictures, the point block is worn where the roto button was hitting it.
I replaced distributor with one of mine with original points. Car is back to normal now.
Here is another example of something to look for when using reproduction parts.

[cadillac512]

Good catch,Wick. That'd be a head scratcher by the side of the road. You'd find it but not everyone would. At least cutting the plastic block back would get it going once found.

[mcgarrett]

I gave up using the modern style points for that reason long ago. I buy all the OEM style points I can find. They seem to be made better and the phenolic rubbing block lasts longer once they have worn-in. Setting the point gap is more precise with the old style too.

[nkaminar]

I would add that the cam seems rough from the photo and not polished.

[ModelA29]

Trimming the rubbing block also might let the points align better.

[nkaminar]

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I want to say that I have no such problems with the modern V8 points and condensor in my otherwise stock distributor. So there can be good or bad modern points.

I use Blue Steak points and condensor. The points are good quality, have a harder rubbing block, and a felt pad to keep oil on the cam. I did have a condensor fail so I will be looking for a better quality brand condensor. Any recommendations for modern condensors?

For part numbers and more info see https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=314053

[Wick]

Everything in that distributor is the way it came. I did notice the cam. I could have trimmed the rotor, but that's not the correct way to fix it.
Blue streak points are great!

[Benson]

Wick,

I have seen this recently on a rebuilt distributor. It was caused by missing .030 and .015 shims under the upper end of shaft.

These shims were put on bottom of shaft instead. The result was that the rotor rubbed on top of the points arm as shown in your photos.

NOTE: because shims were missing from upper end of shaft , the shaft was too low, SO rotor rubs on point arm.

My problem was that as rotor rubbed on the TOP of the Original style arm of points, the spark was very "flakey" and points burned rapidly as the points contact was "made and broken" repeatedly while points were supposed to be closed!

[Wick]

Benson
I rebuild a few distributors every year, most of the time I'm using parts that are new but 50 years old.
When I start using new parts like the plate wire, the length varies. A new bottom plate doesn't fit like orignal, you notice this when connecting the condenser. Rotors and caps vary also.

*** I'll have a few distributor housings with new bushings and shaft, along with fully rebuilt ones at Hershey again this year.
Also Steve will be beside me with rebuilt generators and restored cutouts.

[CT Jack]

As many are seeing the level of quality needed to produce the proper end results is continuously dimishing. We shouldn't have to check every physical detail on replacement parts to make certain they are correct. Replacing components such as points should be a very simple straight forward process. The only concern should be centered around setting the point gap correctly. Checking for interference clearances, out-of-position components, electrical connection, material quality, metal hardness, surface finish, and dimensional correctness is completely unacceptable. The economics and skill levels associated with this delema is obviously not changing for the better. In my view the only near and long term solution for a reliable ignition system is to change over to electronic ignition.

[jb-ob]

Ahh Jack, you were doing so well before promoting 'electronic ignition'. Maybe when Apple can produce a phone that can make reliable calls. Until then, my Model A gives me shelter from the daily technological wonder junk I'm forced tolerate.

Your mileage can vary......

[P.S.]

The real problem here (despite my dislike of "modern points") is that the shaft was too low. Most people overlook that issue when building or rebuilding a Model A distributor.

But there are a few other issues here that would cause this distributor to not pass the quality test before leaving my shop.

1. The points aren't even aligned properly. For longevity and smooth running, the points contact surfaces should be perfectly square to each other.

2. That points cam is atrocious. That should be polished and all 4 lobes checked for proper timing (high spots exactly 90 degrees from each other). From the looks of it in the photo, that's one of the cheap (foreign) cams that I see now and then, substandard.

Good catch, man!

[Wick]

I've tagged that distributor, it's a show and tell distributor now.
It's not going in any car or into a swap meet pile.
My slant windshield has one of those distributors in it, I'll be looking at that one today.
A friend jumped his 6v system with 12v and fried the Box on his electronic ignition. I've had one fail after 3 years on a 66 vw. They are nice, but $$$

[nkaminar]

In post #6 I said that I would be looking for a better condensors. I ordered some Quicksilver condensors that are used for marine applications. They are reported to be good quality. Any comments?

[supergnat]

I installed a reproduction distributor and had a starting/running problem. The car started but only ran for a short time. I traced the problem to a defective fixed point block. The fixed point was loose even though the screw securing it was tight. I purchased a replacement point block from Brattons and resolved the problem. Unfortunately I don’t recall where I purchased the reproduction distributor a few years ago. See the attached photo.

[mcgarrett]

Originally Posted by nkaminar

In post #6 I said that I would be looking for a better condensors. I ordered some Quicksilver condensors that are used for marine applications. They are reported to be good quality. Any comments?

Who did you buy them from? Quality condensers are hard to come by.

[Wick]

Great find ! This brings up something else I've notice on the Model A's that I buy, the locking screw on the points block I've found loose a number of times.
This is the stuff you don't find in the repair books.

[Fullraceflathead]

The burnout proof quality condensers are made by A&L and only sold through the model A. part suppliers