The Ford Barn

mike657894 · 07-08-2017, 03:13 PM

I am about to replace the worn bushings with a new shackle kit from snyders. Is it a straight forward process? support the car lower the alxe and remove the shackles? Or is some or a lot of spreading required and how should I go about this? I see threads on the rear and spreaders. I did some searching but found nothing about stock front spring service. If its simple and I can just go for it with basic tools let me know. I have a 12ton press if the bushings have to be pressed.

Joe K · 07-08-2017, 03:41 PM

Front can be done with the front axle "hanging." If you're smart you can jack up the car only to kind of get to a "neutral point" on the shackles which allow them to be driven out easier.

As to the spring, you'll not need a spreader or anything to do this. And you might do well in approaching that neutral point to put shims of wood between the axle and the spring ends - it might help you "center" the worn shackles in the worn bushings and allow them easy exit.

I think I did it without any wood - just a bigger hammer.

You can cut off the exposed end of the shackle which will make their exit easier with a drift.

Once the shackle is removed then a larger drift to drive out the bushings. You can find a good diameter of "drill rod" already cut in 1' lengths on Ebay. Use this as a drift without even hardening - although I usually use the lathe to make a sort of "pilot" to center the drift.

Removing the bushings from the spring might be easier on the bench. When you unbutton the two spring center U-bolts attaching to the frame, be aware that your center bolt on the spring may be broken and your spring may sprong. The front spring is not near the hazard that the rear spring is. Just go slow in removing the nuts/keeper plate before the spring drops. (or sprongs)

So easy even an 18 year old with Page's Model A book as a guide can do it. (Flashback to 1977)

Joe K

mike657894 · 07-08-2017, 03:55 PM

thank you joe! I have good assortment of punches and drifts and vises and a lathe to use at my dads shop where I have the car. And I just had the u bolts loose to re align an off center problem I had with the spring and the center bolt is intact. The car was kept dry for most of its second life.

Terry, NJ · 07-08-2017, 03:56 PM

It can be a little more complicated than that, but not much. 1st) You will need a spreader, not like the rear spring. You can make it out of 3/4 pipe. 2) You can "usually" drive the bushings out of the bores, but you will need a driver pin/mandrel. Watch carefully for the schackel wearing through the bushing and into the spring perch. Look in my album "My Coupe" (red wheels). I had exactly this problem! I replaced both perches and the steering was vastly improved. 3) The perches can be kinda tough to get out, Take the nut off the bottom and drive up through the axle. Saturate with WD40 till it comes free. Assemble in reverse order!
Terry

Joe K · 07-08-2017, 04:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Terry, NJ

It can be a little more complicated than that, but not much. 1st) You will need a spreader, not like the rear spring. You can make it out of 3/4 pipe. 2) You can "usually" drive the bushings out of the bores, but you will need a driver pin/mandrel. Watch carefully for the schackel wearing through the bushing and into the spring perch. Look in my album "My Coupe" (red wheels). I had exactly this problem! I replaced both perches and the steering was vastly improved. 3) The perches can be kinda tough to get out, Take the nut off the bottom and drive up through the axle. Saturate with WD40 till it comes free. Assemble in reverse order!
Terry

Good comments and yes, a spring spreader for the front can help to reach that hallowed "neutral" position to make driving the shackles out easier. The 18 year old me elected a bigger hammer - one of the shackles came out WITH its bushing IIRC.

Such is the power of rust - and youth.

Replacing spring perches is NOT something I would care to do with the axle under the car. My mind goes back to a front axle rebuild (the "spare" axle) which I had brought in to my then place of employment - who had the advantage of a full machine shop including a 150 ton press. After cutting off the perch head and nut that mega press could not remove the spring perch shaft (the part which passes through the axle) as it was so severely rusted in place. We elected to drill it out to a shell and then press out what little remained. I think the heat of drilling helped it to de-attach to the axle. And this a modus you may have to resort to to change a spring perch.

Spring perch bushings can wear through - and into the perch itself. This is reason to condemn a perch - although as forged steel they can be cut open - bushed with a copper or brass sleeve, and then welded in the gap to close (and shrink a bit the bushing hole) The copper or brass is then drilled out to the diameter of the bushing minus 1-2 thousandths and a new bushing installed normally. (Some just use a new bushing to "line" the perch and weld it in place and call it done.)

Anyway, thank you for the comments.

Joe K

Chuck Sea/Tac · 07-09-2017, 12:26 AM

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

I've taken my front spring out several times just using wood blocks to hit the neutral spot.

Big hammer · 07-09-2017, 07:41 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Chuck Sea/Tac

I've taken my front spring out several times just using wood blocks to hit the neutral spot.

This is what I have done, to clarify blocks of wood on top of the axle, under the shackles getting it to a neutral position.

john charlton · 07-09-2017, 04:31 AM

Sometimes the perch will not press out of the axle .Sadly in the past I have bent an axle using a 50 ton press (not my press ) Drilling it out would have been the solution .Luckily over the years I have accrued more axles so I don't need to straighten it yet !!! In many perches the bush is worn through and worn into the perch itself . If the damage is not too bad I fit the new bush, cut a slot and MIG this and the exposed bush ends to the perch . This does mean you cannot drive the bush out again but this fix will last way past my lifetime . And also gives the perch an extra lease of life .

John in lovely sunny summers Day Suffolk County England .

Terry, NJ · 07-09-2017, 07:03 AM

I've done three of them so far. In both cases, they came out with out much trouble. But having heard the tales of some stuck perches, I was making my plans , just in case. One of my plans included putting a bar through the bore of the perch and twisting it to "break" the hold of the rust. Tapping on the bore of the axle while it's saturated with a penetrant is another. Heating it is another.
Reassembling it with a generous amount of anti-seize compound provides both a physical and a chemical barrier to moisture. You will probably never have to take it apart again, but, what if........ Make it easy on yourself and the next owner.
Terry

Quote:

Originally Posted by john charlton

Sometimes the perch will not press out of the axle .Sadly in the past I have bent an axle using a 50 ton press (not my press ) Drilling it out would have been the solution .Luckily over the years I have accrued more axles so I don't need to straighten it yet !!! In many perches the bush is worn through and worn into the perch itself . If the damage is not too bad I fit the new bush, cut a slot and MIG this and the exposed bush ends to the perch . This does mean you cannot drive the bush out again but this fix will last way past my lifetime . And also gives the perch an extra lease of life .

John in lovely sunny summers Day Suffolk County England .

Tom Wesenberg · 07-09-2017, 08:05 AM

I wonder if sticking the stuck perch and axle end in a pail of RUST911 would help?

SeaSlugs · 07-09-2017, 10:23 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tom Wesenberg

I wonder if sticking the stuck perch and axle end in a pail of RUST911 would help?

sure cant hurt... sometimes getting off the visible layer of rust lets penetrating oil "slide" and creep into the rusty area much easier.

mike657894 · 07-11-2017, 07:09 PM

It all tapped apart pretty easily. The bushings for the perches were wore through but no real damage to the perches. While I was there I decided to service the Front spring. Took it out and ran a wire wheel over them and greased it. I needed a helper to use a bar to get the shackle in and to get the plate on the shackle.

07-08-2017, 03:13 PM	#1
mike657894 Senior Member Join Date: Oct 2015 Location: Bay City Michigan Posts: 1,050	front spring shackle replacement? tips tricks or warnings? I am about to replace the worn bushings with a new shackle kit from snyders. Is it a straight forward process? support the car lower the alxe and remove the shackles? Or is some or a lot of spreading required and how should I go about this? I see threads on the rear and spreaders. I did some searching but found nothing about stock front spring service. If its simple and I can just go for it with basic tools let me know. I have a 12ton press if the bushings have to be pressed.

07-08-2017, 03:41 PM	#2
Joe K Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2010 Location: Cow Hampshire Posts: 4,610	Re: front spring shackle replacement? tips tricks or warnings? Front can be done with the front axle "hanging." If you're smart you can jack up the car only to kind of get to a "neutral point" on the shackles which allow them to be driven out easier. As to the spring, you'll not need a spreader or anything to do this. And you might do well in approaching that neutral point to put shims of wood between the axle and the spring ends - it might help you "center" the worn shackles in the worn bushings and allow them easy exit. I think I did it without any wood - just a bigger hammer. You can cut off the exposed end of the shackle which will make their exit easier with a drift. Once the shackle is removed then a larger drift to drive out the bushings. You can find a good diameter of "drill rod" already cut in 1' lengths on Ebay. Use this as a drift without even hardening - although I usually use the lathe to make a sort of "pilot" to center the drift. Removing the bushings from the spring might be easier on the bench. When you unbutton the two spring center U-bolts attaching to the frame, be aware that your center bolt on the spring may be broken and your spring may sprong. The front spring is not near the hazard that the rear spring is. Just go slow in removing the nuts/keeper plate before the spring drops. (or sprongs) So easy even an 18 year old with Page's Model A book as a guide can do it. (Flashback to 1977) Joe K __________________ Shudda kept the horse.

07-08-2017, 03:55 PM	#3
mike657894 Senior Member Join Date: Oct 2015 Location: Bay City Michigan Posts: 1,050	Re: front spring shackle replacement? tips tricks or warnings? thank you joe! I have good assortment of punches and drifts and vises and a lathe to use at my dads shop where I have the car. And I just had the u bolts loose to re align an off center problem I had with the spring and the center bolt is intact. The car was kept dry for most of its second life.

07-08-2017, 03:56 PM	#4
Terry, NJ Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Bucks Co, Pa Posts: 3,749	Re: front spring shackle replacement? tips tricks or warnings? It can be a little more complicated than that, but not much. 1st) You will need a spreader, not like the rear spring. You can make it out of 3/4 pipe. 2) You can "usually" drive the bushings out of the bores, but you will need a driver pin/mandrel. Watch carefully for the schackel wearing through the bushing and into the spring perch. Look in my album "My Coupe" (red wheels). I had exactly this problem! I replaced both perches and the steering was vastly improved. 3) The perches can be kinda tough to get out, Take the nut off the bottom and drive up through the axle. Saturate with WD40 till it comes free. Assemble in reverse order! Terry

07-09-2017, 12:26 AM	#6
Chuck Sea/Tac Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Between Seattle & Tacoma Posts: 2,411	Re: front spring shackle replacement? tips tricks or warnings? Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) I've taken my front spring out several times just using wood blocks to hit the neutral spot.

07-09-2017, 04:31 AM	#8
john charlton Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Posts: 1,343	Re: front spring shackle replacement? tips tricks or warnings? Sometimes the perch will not press out of the axle .Sadly in the past I have bent an axle using a 50 ton press (not my press ) Drilling it out would have been the solution .Luckily over the years I have accrued more axles so I don't need to straighten it yet !!! In many perches the bush is worn through and worn into the perch itself . If the damage is not too bad I fit the new bush, cut a slot and MIG this and the exposed bush ends to the perch . This does mean you cannot drive the bush out again but this fix will last way past my lifetime . And also gives the perch an extra lease of life . John in lovely sunny summers Day Suffolk County England . Last edited by john charlton; 07-09-2017 at 05:07 AM.

07-09-2017, 08:05 AM	#10
Tom Wesenberg Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Mpls, MN Posts: 27,582	Re: front spring shackle replacement? tips tricks or warnings? I wonder if sticking the stuck perch and axle end in a pail of RUST911 would help?

07-11-2017, 07:09 PM	#12
mike657894 Senior Member Join Date: Oct 2015 Location: Bay City Michigan Posts: 1,050	Re: front spring shackle replacement? tips tricks or warnings? It all tapped apart pretty easily. The bushings for the perches were wore through but no real damage to the perches. While I was there I decided to service the Front spring. Took it out and ran a wire wheel over them and greased it. I needed a helper to use a bar to get the shackle in and to get the plate on the shackle.