1930 CCPU cab re-assembly

[Vin-tin]

I'VE ADDED AN UPDATE ON PAGE 2.
I've owned this cab (pile of parts) for a long time. Actually, my daughter was just 10 months old when I got it.
The cab's previous owner had torn it all apart with intentions of rebuilding it, but never did.
Well, my daughter graduated from college last year and I figured it was time I finally started to figure out how this model A goes back together.
I started with the sub rails. They were kind of rough. I welded the cracks and tig welded in new metal where needed.
Here's the rear section of the driver's side I fixed.

[Mitch//pa]

congradulations time fly's huh
nice job on the panel now getter done

[Vin-tin]

Originally Posted by Mitch//pa

congradulations time fly's huh
nice job on the panel now getter done

Yea, and the older I get, the faster it seems to fly.

Next up are the rear corner braces. They were still strong, but had a lot of rust and pits. I figured it would be easier and faster just to replace them. But after not being able to find any vender that carried them, I decided to just make them myself out of 14 gauge.
I transferred the holes from the originals onto a 1/4" thick steel hammer-form I made. Using the holes to bolt the form onto the 14 gauge kept everything from moving while I shaped the braces.

[Vin-tin]

I also wanted to reproduce the body cross channel. The original was rusty and rotted.
I copied the details of the original including the offset where the sub rails connect.

[BRENT in 10-uh-C]

Originally Posted by Vin-tin

I also wanted to reproduce the body cross channel. The original was rusty and rotted.
I copied the details of the original including the offset where the sub rails connect.

Jus' curious, how did you put the D-nut offsets & holes in the flanges? I had to make a die and use a press. Did you do the same?

[Vin-tin]

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Originally Posted by BRENT in 10-uh-C

Jus' curious, how did you put the D-nut offsets & holes in the flanges? I had to make a die and use a press. Did you do the same?

Brent, I only put the offset in for the rub rails. If I decide to do the D-nut thing, I can still do it later.
I made the offset by using a hammer form I made. It fit tight into the channel and extended under the flanges. The hammer form had the off set in it, so all I did was use hand tools...hammers, dull chisels, bar stock, etc.
and hammered the metal "down" into the offset, stretching it.
It wasn't easy to stretch 16 gauge by hand. I just took my time and did it evenly a little at a time. I'm sure your method was much faster using a die and a press. Actually, I operate a 200 ton and 400 ton punch press where I work. I'm amazed at how far and fast metal can be pushed and stretched into shape using dies.

Tom, being your neighbor sounds great to me. Seeing all the little gadgets you make and use, it would be great to have a neighbor as intelligent as you.

Pluck, no business plans for me. I like being in the hobby because it's relaxing to me, and I love A's.

[juke joint johnny]

Looks like you're doing a good job on it .

Don't feel bad about it being a pile of parts for a long time . I have a roadster that has been in pieces for longer than that !!! The pieces keep changing around as well ,when I find something better it goes in the pile !!!

I met a guy at Hershey in 2000 whose son had taken his roadster apart and then was called up for the Korean War ,He had now finished the frame and running gear but still had the bodywork to finish some 40+ years later . Might be a new record !!!

John Cochran

[Tom Wesenberg]

Very nice work on that part. Sure wish some of you guys were my neighbors.
There's a couple A's in our club that are still in pieces when they were taken apart in the 60's.

[Tom Wesenberg]

Nice work, no doubt you should move in next door.

[Steve Plucker]

Vin-tin,

You should go into business...Great work.

Pluck

[700rpm]

Nice work. I really admire a craftsman who does nice work... Especially in an area where I am completely clueless.

[Vin-tin]

Originally Posted by 700rpm

Nice work. I really admire a craftsman who does nice work... Especially in an area where I am completely clueless.

Thanks 700rpm.
It's a learning experience and i'm thankful for the barn and the many people on here that share their knowledge. I would be totally lost with out you guys!

[Hoogah]

Originally Posted by 700rpm

Nice work. I really admire a craftsman who does nice work... Especially in an area where I am completely clueless.

x2!! Love the remnants of the sign work on that door. Would look great preserved!

[Vin-tin]

Since all i'm doing right now is stripping paint off the cowl, i thought i'd back-up a little bit and show you guys what i did to fix the door hinges and door jambs. Maybe it will help someone.

My problem was two-fold.
On the original cowl, someone had tried to remove the hinge screws and ended up twisting some of them off. Then they tried drilling them out of the hinge and messed up the threads and holes.

Also, the replacement cowl i got had the hinge screws burned out of the cowl with a torch. The inner structure was mostly fine, but the outer skin was just blobs of melted metal around the screw holes.

Using the few "good" holes from each hinge, i managed to make a fixture with the correct hole placement. Then, after welding-up the bad holes and grinding everything flush, I used the fixture as a drill guide and drilled new holes. The fixture is just some scrap i had laying around.

Then onto the torched cowl. I ground off all of the blobs of metal around each screw hole until it was flush with the surrounding metal. I used a solid copper rod with a slight taper and forced it into each hole in the inner structure. After posititioning the rod, i used my mig and filled in around it. Since weld doesn't stick to copper, i had a nice round hole left after removing the rod. I ground everything flush and used a countersink bit to clean up the hole.

I apologize for not taking any "before" pictures. You can still see the jagged edges in the cowl holes where my weld didn't quite reach.

[waxhead]

Coming along nicely. Keep up the good work. It will be worth all of the effort when completed.

[Flop]

lookin good !!! pretty solid cab ya got !

[Vin-tin]

Originally Posted by Flop

lookin good !!! pretty solid cab ya got !

Thanks Flop.
The cab has the same lower rot problems most A's have. Needs patch panels all the way around. Plus the rear window area was "ripped" by something sliding into that area real hard. (more on that later)
The truck's cowl was badly rusted and basically butchered by the previous owner. I found a decent replacement, but realize now it's for a coupe. Coupe's windshield posts are a bit shorter than the truck ones, as you already know.
I bent up some patches and am in the process of welding those in right now.

[glenn in camino]

I wish I knew how to weld.

[Vin-tin]

UPDATE:
I usually only work on this truck over the winter. Here's what I did lately.

I mentioned earlier in the thread that the rear window opening was ripped open. Probably from something sliding that was being carried in the bed.
The guy I got this truck from gave along a replacement panel from a donor truck, so I went ahead and finished tig welding that in. The most difficult part of this was making sure I did hammer and dolly work as I welded, to keep the panel from warping.

[Vin-tin]

I also fitted both cab corners and lower cab patch and welded those in. This was a big pain in the butt fitting all 3 together so the lower body reveal and curvature lined up. Plus having to hammer and dolly as I went along.
NOT FUN AT ALL! But i'm pleased with the outcome.