coil to distributer harness

[FrankWest]

I am trying to find the coil to distributer cap harness.
Brattons sells a 12 inch long distributer cap wire but I am missing something. I need the wire that thate plugs into the harness must be 3 ft to 4 ft long to reach from the coil to the distributer

[Kurt in NJ]

Therer is a harness that goes from the coil/terminal block to the dash, there the coil wire connects to the ignition switch (popout) which has the wire inside the heavy metal cable that screws into the distributer

[1931 flamingo]

Frank you have a 33 model B, not much different than an A. There is a wire from the coil to the dist and probably not more than 12" long. Where does this 3-4' wire go to/from??
Have you checked it for continuity?
You had the car running (twice I believe) for over an hour, usually (if ever) a wire/harness does not just "give up".
Do you have gas at the carb, simple to check.
Do you have spark ?? You've been asked to ck this before.
How did you come to the conclusion that you need a 3-4" wire??
Paul in CT

[FrankWest]

Originally Posted by 1931 flamingo

Frank you have a 33 model B, not much different than an A. There is a wire from the coil to the dist and probably not more than 12" long. Where does this 3-4' wire go to/from??
Have you checked it for continuity?
You had the car running (twice I believe) for over an hour, usually (if ever) a wire/harness does not just "give up".
Do you have gas at the carb, simple to check.
Do you have spark ?? You've been asked to ck this before.
How did you come to the conclusion that you need a 3-4" wire??
Paul in CT

I stated on the can't start car post
That I had no spark Now.
Checked all the connection and seem tight.
My ammeter is still quiet....
I suspect that my coil burned out

The 12 inch long distributer wire cannot fit from the coil to the distributer on this model B car,

[tbirdtbird]

his coil must be in the trunk

[FrankWest]

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Originally Posted by tbirdtbird

his coil must be in the trunk

Real smart...Wise guy! I have bot trunk and my coil is under the dash

[Ford1931]

Is the 33 coil inside the firewall like the 32? If so you need a long wire. Just use a longer modern wire.

[Tom Wesenberg]

If you need to buy cloth wire, this guy sells a lot of colors and gauges of cloth covered wire.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Cloth-Covere...r#ht_95wt_1001

[Bob C]

I think you are looking for part B-14302. It looks like it is
the high tension wire from the coil to the distributor cap and
the primary wire from the distributor to the coil in one loom.

Bob

[FrankWest]

Originally Posted by Bob C

I think you are looking for part B-14302. It looks like it is
the high tension wire from the coil to the distributor cap and
the primary wire from the distributor to the coil in one loom.

Bob

THanks for your help.

[tbirdtbird]

sorry, i am very confused

[FrankWest]

Originally Posted by FrankWest

I am trying to find the coil to distributer cap harness.
Brattons sells a 12 inch long distributer cap wire but I am missing something. I need the wire that thate plugs into the harness must be 3 ft to 4 ft long to reach from the coil to the distributer

I have a 1933 model B car.
The wire out of the center of the coil is approx 1/4 tan woven cloth
this extends thru the firewall for approx 2 ft at that point there is junction that the distributer coil connects to. Also there is a small guage wire included in the tan material coated wire from the coil the attaches to the lower distributer body?
I was questioning this because there is electrical tap holding this juncture together 10 inches from the distributer. I question the integrity of the connection perhaps something can loose here.
I will first replace my ignition coil....I have another one.
I suspect the coil because of the deadness all of a sudden in my ammeter.
If the coil were active and not open or shorted there would have to be current surging thru if as the ignition switch is turned and starter, i believe.

[Vin-tin]

I'm not trying to be a smart ass, but I thought this was a 1928-1931 Model A ford forum.
Sorry, I cant help you other than to direct you to the proper forum.
They might be of more help on the 1932-1953 forum.
Good luck at figuring it out.

[Tom Wesenberg]

Dirty points could also leave the ammeter with no movement while cranking the engine. You need a test light to follow where the electricity drops off. Touch each side of the coil primary to see if the coil is passing current, then work your way down to the points, which should be grounded when they are closed.

[FrankWest]

Originally Posted by Tom Wesenberg

Dirty points could also leave the ammeter with no movement while cranking the engine. You need a test light to follow where the electricity drops off. Touch each side of the coil primary to see if the coil is passing current, then work your way down to the points, which should be grounded when they are closed.

I took the cap off and
How do you remove the rotor to get below to see the points?

[darrylkmc]

FrankWest,

The rotor should bull straight up and come off, if it is original it could be bakelite and brittle, rocking them while taking them off can crack them.

Darryl in Fairbanks

[FrankWest]

Originally Posted by Tom Wesenberg

Dirty points could also leave the ammeter with no movement while cranking the engine. You need a test light to follow where the electricity drops off. Touch each side of the coil primary to see if the coil is passing current, then work your way down to the points, which should be grounded when they are closed.

Just one last question. If the points were bad after 20 years, why did the car start right up? And it ran great, beautiful smooth sound, sounded better than my hinda accord! Ran for more than 1 hour straight on each of the 3 starts. Would the point actual get worse upon running.

Can I just use a test light probe bought at autozone?

[1931 flamingo]

Have you unwrapped the electrical tape that you mention in post #11???
Have you ck'd for voltage at the battery, ignition switch, coil, distributor????
Will the horn honk??
Will the lights turn on??
Brake lights??
Paul in CT

[FrankWest]

Originally Posted by 1931 flamingo

Have you unwrapped the electrical tape that you mention in post #11???
Have you ck'd for voltage at the battery, ignition switch, coil, distributor????
Will the horn honk??
Will the lights turn on??
Brake lights??
Paul in CT

The horn works and headlighs,,Brake lights not installed yet

[FrankWest]

I apolpgized for asking this qustion under Model A/
The model a has the ignation coil on the firewall engine compartment here only need 10 inches or so.
On my model B the ingnition coil is location under the dash inside the car.
And you need this harness
http://www.macsautoparts.com/ford_me...passenger.html

Having a 1933 car with basically a model A engine can be confusing at times...
But The 1933 model B engine was very reliable and almos as powerful as the early v8 which had many problem until approx 1935/36