1935 Ford Juice Brakes

[Mr. Will]

I would like to convert my 35' coupe to juice brakes and wondered if anyone made a set of pre bent brake lines? Any information would be appreciated.

Thanks Dan

[Willit Stop]

Dan. Have you thought of installing energizers? They're about $56 and work just as well as hydraulics.

[Straightpipes]

WILL and WILLIT..... Are you guys related????

[Mr. Will]

Originally Posted by Straightpipes

WILL and WILLIT..... Are you guys related????

No no relation. My dogs name is Willapa Willy so we call him Mr. Will

[Mr. Will]

Originally Posted by Willit Stop

Dan. Have you thought of installing energizers? They're about $56 and work just as well as hydraulics.

I have not heard of the energizers.

[mfagan]

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Try Richard at the Early V-8 garage,
(626) 338-2282. He furnished everything we
needed for our 34 and 36 5 window coupes.
Fit like they came from factory!!

[Mr. Will]

Originally Posted by mfagan

Try Richard at the Early V-8 garage,
(626) 338-2282. He furnished everything we
needed for our 34 and 36 5 window coupes.
Fit like they came from factory!!

I plan on buying Richards master cylinder mouting bracket but I thought his price for brake lines was bit high at 395.00. I can make my own but thought if I could buy a pre bent set reasonable I would go that route and be done with it.

[Willit Stop]

C&G Early Ford Parts sells the energizers(floaters).Part#48-2043. $54.95.
Their phone number is 1-800-266-0470. I put them on my '36 and I'm very pleased.It might be worth looking into Dad.

[Straightpipes]

My 35 coupe has juice brakes. You can buy the brake lines for a 39' and they will be much cheaper. Check Spadero or Early Ford V8 in SC.
The early V8 garage master cylinder mount is pretty simple to fabricate. I used his pics as a reference and saved a bunch of money on my 34 pickup. My 35 coupe has a 39 pedal assembly.
You will still need to mount the conectors and go thru the inner fender panels for the hoses etc.

[Mr. Will]

Originally Posted by Straightpipes

My 35 coupe has juice brakes. You can buy the brake lines for a 39' and they will be much cheaper. Check Spadero or Early Ford V8 in SC.
The early V8 garage master cylinder mount is pretty simple to fabricate. I used his pics as a reference and saved a bunch of money on my 34 pickup. My 35 coupe has a 39 pedal assembly.
You will still need to mount the conectors and go thru the inner fender panels for the hoses etc.

I looked at the pics and also thought it looked pretty easy to fab. Thanks For the tip on the 39' brake lines.
Did you do the master with the bell crank that mounts sideways to the frame?

[billwill]

Read number four site how do I know

[Mr. Will]

Originally Posted by billwill

Read number four site how do I know

I am sorry but I don't understand your comment...

[my4dv8]

Brake lines are a walk in the park to bend up out of the softer cupro nickel tube . It still complies with all regulations and bend and flares real nice.

[Mr. Will]

Originally Posted by my4dv8

Brake lines are a walk in the park to bend up out of the softer cupro nickel tube . It still complies with all regulations and bend and flares real nice.

Originally Posted by rick r

I agree with my4dv8 on the cupro nickel brake line. Got mine at CARQUEST. beautiful bends with a bender or just use your fingers. Double flares are no problem with a basic double flaring tool.

Yep I am very familiar with the cupro nickel Tube. I made all the brake and fuel lines for my 57' Buick with that material and still have quite a bit 3/16 & 3/8" on hand although not 1/4".

[V8 Bob]

Originally Posted by Mr. Will

Yep I am very familiar with the cupro nickel Tube. I made all the brake and fuel lines for my 57' Buick with that material and still have quite a bit 3/16 & 3/8" on hand although not 1/4".

Just curious, but why are you running the lines on top of the frame rails? It may be easy and look good, but there's not a lot of room between the body and frame, and smashed/damaged lines may result, as this routing is not normal.
Also, the rear frame to axle flex line looks too short to allow full axle jounce and rebound, but that might be just the picture.

[Mr. Will]

Originally Posted by V8 Bob

Just curious, but why are you running the lines on top of the frame rails? It may be easy and look good, but there's not a lot of room between the body and frame, and smashed/damaged lines may result, as this routing is not normal.
Also, the rear frame to axle flex line looks too short to allow full axle jounce and rebound, but that might be just the picture.

The original fuel line was rubber and it ran on the outside of the frame on the passenger side through the body mount pearches. There is plenty of room on the top of the frame rails for the both fuel and brake lines. I have had the body on and off several times test fitting for such things. The rear flex line is just right I have ran the rear through the full range of motion both up and down with shocks off and there were no issues. You can kind of see the holes for the fuel line here. Thanks for your input.

[V8 Bob]

Mr. Will,
You've got a very nice looking build going on, and am glad you have checked critical areas/items.

[JM 35 Sedan]

I put brake floaters on my '35 fordor sedan last spring and they made a huge difference in how this car brakes. I have driven cars with hydraulic brake conversions, using '39-'48 components, that did not stop as well as my car stops now. The new Lincoln brake offers may be a different story.

[Admiral]

Originally Posted by JM 35 Sedan

I put brake floaters on my '35 fordor sedan last spring and they made a huge difference in how this car brakes. I have driven cars with hydraulic brake conversions that did not stop as well as my car stops now.

What kind of brake floaters do you have? Just curious.

[rick r]

I agree with my4dv8 on the cupro nickel brake line. Got mine at CARQUEST. beautiful bends with a bender or just use your fingers. Double flares are no problem with a basic double flaring tool.