Pressurized Oil Tank

[Scott De Shields]

Does anyone out there have some ideas for a pressurized oil tank for lubing a new engine. Had an engine built and bench run back in August and just about ready to start it off in the car. The oil was drained before given to me and the engine has been sealed up since then. Don't want to spin a bearing waiting for oil pressure to build up.

[Henry/Kokomo]

How about using one of those air operated barrell pumps and attaching the output line where the oil pressure sending unit or the oil filter feed line goes? Used to pre-lube large diesel's this way and it was easy and worked quite well. FWIW

[Kahuna]

Scott
I made one using an old 5 gal propane tank. I added a guage and valve and tubing with a fitting to the oil pressure spot on the block. It worked real well, but later I talked to a guy who used a new $19.95 tank sprayer with a line setup to the engine. Added 4 qts or whatever, pumped it up and did the job
Jim

[Scott De Shields]

Thanks for the input. Is that a garden style tank sprayer you are talking about?

[Kahuna]

Yes

[Ronnie]

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Made mine from an old fire extinguisher really simple with a regulator and a gauge. Can give pic's if wanted.

R

[Karl Wolf]

One could make one using a by pass type oil filter cannister...

Karl

[all american boy]

here's a 'oil pump priming shaft'
for Mopar's
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/DCC-4286800/?rtype=10
are they not available for your engine?

[all american boy]

scott
doesn't look like there's shaft for flatheads
or a lot of people don't know about it
here's link to oil priming
http://www.btc-bci.com/~billben/flathead.htm
left side under 'engine' then 'oil priming'
looks like pressurizing it is!

[JM 35 Sedan]

I made one using a piece of large diameter copper pipe with end caps soldered to each end. Attaches to port on back of block. Has pressure gauge, fill plug and tire valve stem at top. I think it holds two quarts. Easy to make and works very well. Can add or send pictures if you would like to see.

[Junknshit]

Could it be because the oil pump drive is a little hard to access on "a lot of flatheads", and the "shaft" that drives them is "kinda weird and lumpy shaped"?

[Ronnie]

Pump has no shaft direct gear drive.

R

[oldford2]

If your engine was rebuilt using pre-lube on all the bearings and has run after assembly there should be plenty of oil in the bearings for you to start it without causing any damage. Pressure should build in a couple of seconds. However, to be sure you can prime the system by removing the sender and with a small funnel pour in a half cup of oil. I have a 5" pipe nipple standpipe that keeps the sender up above the firewall for easy access. Keep things simple. John

[JM 35 Sedan]

Originally Posted by oldford2

If your engine was rebuilt using pre-lube on all the bearings and has run after assembly there should be plenty of oil in the bearings for you to start it without causing any damage. Pressure should build in a couple of seconds. However, to be sure you can prime the system by removing the sender and with a small funnel pour in a half cup of oil. I have a 5" pipe nipple standpipe that keeps the sender up above the firewall for easy access. Keep things simple. John

John, I have tried using a funnel and pouring oil in like you are suggesting but it never has work for me. I had to build a pressure vessel to really get the oil in throughout the system. Also, I once nearly ruined a newly built FH engine by starting it up assuming I would have OP. No oil pressure at start up and I shut it down immediately. Found a twisted oil line from oil pump to side of oil pan fitting on MCF full flow oil system when I removed to pan. It was definitely my bad but could have been a disaster. Engine now has 10k miles and running good.

[Junknshit]

Ronnie, If your comment was for me, I was joking. Camshaft is hard to access and is kinda lumpy.

[Dale Fairfax]

Doesn't everybody have a Chevy oil pump lying around? I submerged one in a coffee can of oil; plumbed the output to a tee at the gauge port (with a gauge in the other side of the tee) using plastic tubing and some fittings out of my junk box. Spun the oil pump with a 1/4" drill and turned the engine with a socket wrench. Did this with the oil pan off so I could see where the oil was dripping from.

[Jack E/NJ]

oldford2>>>However, to be sure you can prime the system by removing the sender and with a small funnel pour in a half cup of oil. I have a 5" pipe nipple standpipe that keeps the sender up above the firewall for easy access. Keep things simple.>>>

I agree, John. A simple funnel and gravity work fine, no elaborate pressurizing needed. I slowly added 5 qts this way before startup on a complete rebuild. Instant pressure on cranking indicated with a guage setup exactly like yours.

Jack E/NJ

[richard crow]

get one of those cheap suction guns they use for sucking out the filter housings .pull plunger all the way back fill with moter oil. put fiting on end of hose with a 1/4 pipe thread. screw into oil pressure sender taping push lever till it bottoms out eng is primed & now you have a tool that has maney uses .good for cleaning filter housing adding trans oil or diff oil

[36tbird]

If you build an engine with everything pre-lubed (white grease and cam lube) and you take the plugs out and spin the thing until you have oil pressure showing why is any of this necessary? I'm just asking to learn things to make my engine building technique better, not to be facetious.

[Kahuna]

Hey Lou
The idea is to make sure all the oil galleys are full. Something you really can't do with assy lube. Some guys will also turn the engine over with a wrench while the oil is being pumped in to ensure all rods, etc., are taken care of
Jim