The Ford Barn

chrismac52 · 09-07-2011, 08:43 PM

My lights work great except when I turn to the low beam setting, it immediately blows the fuse. How do the lights connect to the switch? I don't see where it enters the column.

JM 35 Sedan · 09-07-2011, 09:19 PM

If it's the original setup there is a metal can at the bottom of the steering box that contains the light switch and horn contacts. All the wires to the lights and horn exit that can and travel forward. There is probably a wire between that switch and the low beam bulbs that is touching ground or maybe it's shorted to another wire.

chrismac52 · 09-10-2011, 05:57 PM

What I have found is that if I remove the can and connect it back the lights will work correctly and then it will start blowing the fuse again...makes me think something is wrong in the can. Is that part replaceable? I found a replacement headlight harness, but it doesn't look the same and not sure if it would work out...this is the harness:
http://lbcunited.com/earlyford2/prod...23e30fdba5fa62

Thoughts? Right now it is working again after removing and putting the can back on, but I am guessing it will start blowing the fuse again as that has happened before.
Thanks in advance!

Lawson Cox · 09-10-2011, 07:58 PM

If it happens again I think I would buy a new wiring harness. Much cheaper than a fire. I recommend Tyree Harris's wiring harnesses. Great product from a super nice fellow.

Chris Nelson · 09-11-2011, 11:27 AM

I think Lawson is right. If it is original wiring on the car, it is probably so stiff and the insulation is crumbly that it would not be surprising if there were shorts. You would need to get a new wiring harness. If the rest of the wiring is similar, you probably need to change it all out or you will be fighting the same problem later in other parts of the car.

Mac VP · 09-11-2011, 11:47 AM

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

If the wiring is old, I highly recommend replacing it ALL. I also recommend using one of the battery disconnect switches on your battery. It won't save you if there is a major short while you are driving, but it helps with peace of mind when your car is parked.

Mike in AZ · 09-11-2011, 12:35 PM

if your wiring harness in that "can" doesn't look like the one in the ad, probably an excellent idea to replace your wiring....good luck.....Mike

Pompeyboy11 · 03-14-2025, 09:57 PM

I have an issue with the lights on my 36 ford sedan, sometimes I find after cruising the lights are on, no matter what i do with the switch on steering wheel they will not switch off, I had this issue at a show where the park light was on. If I disconnect the battery then reconnect they are off. I have a batt disconnect terminal now. Any pics of where the light switch is housed and what it looks like would help. Any advice? I am in Australia, car is RHD.

rotorwrench · 03-15-2025, 12:44 PM

Don't be afraid to start a new thread for your questions. Ford used the switch on the bottom of the steering shaft at the steering gear case from 1927 clear up through 1939. and all the switches are similar in design. I think the right hand drive cars still used the same switch but I'm not positive on the later V8 cars. Ford started using a pull type switch on the dash in 1940 but yours has the control on the steering wheel just like the LHD types. The spider at the bottom may have problems or the switch may have problems. The control rod runs down inside the steering shaft to the bottom and then the spider connects the rod to the switch. The horn connection is between the bottom of the rod and the switch plate in the light switch housing.

09-07-2011, 08:43 PM	#1
chrismac52 Member Join Date: Sep 2011 Location: Gainesville, TX Posts: 44	1936 headlight switch My lights work great except when I turn to the low beam setting, it immediately blows the fuse. How do the lights connect to the switch? I don't see where it enters the column.

09-07-2011, 09:19 PM	#2
JM 35 Sedan Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Near Rising Sun, Maryland Posts: 10,876	Re: 1936 headlight switch If it's the original setup there is a metal can at the bottom of the steering box that contains the light switch and horn contacts. All the wires to the lights and horn exit that can and travel forward. There is probably a wire between that switch and the low beam bulbs that is touching ground or maybe it's shorted to another wire. __________________ *John* *"Never give up on what you really want to do. The person with big dreams is more powerful than one with all the facts". Albert Einstein*

09-10-2011, 05:57 PM	#3
chrismac52 Member Join Date: Sep 2011 Location: Gainesville, TX Posts: 44	Re: 1936 headlight switch What I have found is that if I remove the can and connect it back the lights will work correctly and then it will start blowing the fuse again...makes me think something is wrong in the can. Is that part replaceable? I found a replacement headlight harness, but it doesn't look the same and not sure if it would work out...this is the harness: http://lbcunited.com/earlyford2/prod...23e30fdba5fa62 Thoughts? Right now it is working again after removing and putting the can back on, but I am guessing it will start blowing the fuse again as that has happened before. Thanks in advance!

09-10-2011, 07:58 PM	#4
Lawson Cox Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Above the gnat line in Georgia Posts: 7,082	Re: 1936 headlight switch If it happens again I think I would buy a new wiring harness. Much cheaper than a fire. I recommend Tyree Harris's wiring harnesses. Great product from a super nice fellow.

09-11-2011, 11:27 AM	#5
Chris Nelson Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Poulsbo, WA. Posts: 356	Re: 1936 headlight switch I think Lawson is right. If it is original wiring on the car, it is probably so stiff and the insulation is crumbly that it would not be surprising if there were shorts. You would need to get a new wiring harness. If the rest of the wiring is similar, you probably need to change it all out or you will be fighting the same problem later in other parts of the car.

09-11-2011, 11:47 AM	#6
Mac VP Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Cincinnati, OH Posts: 1,430	Re: 1936 headlight switch Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) If the wiring is old, I highly recommend replacing it ALL. I also recommend using one of the battery disconnect switches on your battery. It won't save you if there is a major short while you are driving, but it helps with peace of mind when your car is parked. __________________ VANPELT SALES LLC Cincinnati, Ohio Office: 513-724-9486 www.vanpeltsales.com www.classictransmission.com

09-11-2011, 12:35 PM	#7
Mike in AZ Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Waddell, AZ Posts: 2,540	Re: 1936 headlight switch if your wiring harness in that "can" doesn't look like the one in the ad, probably an excellent idea to replace your wiring....good luck.....Mike

03-14-2025, 09:57 PM	#8
Pompeyboy11 Junior Member Join Date: Dec 2024 Posts: 13	Re: 1936 headlight switch I have an issue with the lights on my 36 ford sedan, sometimes I find after cruising the lights are on, no matter what i do with the switch on steering wheel they will not switch off, I had this issue at a show where the park light was on. If I disconnect the battery then reconnect they are off. I have a batt disconnect terminal now. Any pics of where the light switch is housed and what it looks like would help. Any advice? I am in Australia, car is RHD.

03-15-2025, 12:44 PM	#9
rotorwrench Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: San Antonio, Texas Posts: 17,410	Re: 1936 headlight switch Don't be afraid to start a new thread for your questions. Ford used the switch on the bottom of the steering shaft at the steering gear case from 1927 clear up through 1939. and all the switches are similar in design. I think the right hand drive cars still used the same switch but I'm not positive on the later V8 cars. Ford started using a pull type switch on the dash in 1940 but yours has the control on the steering wheel just like the LHD types. The spider at the bottom may have problems or the switch may have problems. The control rod runs down inside the steering shaft to the bottom and then the spider connects the rod to the switch. The horn connection is between the bottom of the rod and the switch plate in the light switch housing.