I want to adjust my valves but…

[busmania]

I have 1000 miles on my car now. Fun summer! In anticipation for getting the interior done in January, I figured I’d clean up the firewall which meant removing the engine and addressing a couple of things. I have a minor oil leak so I’ll fix that but I also think a lifter or two is ticking as I think the adjustment is slightly off. This was my first flathead build. So with the engine out I want to readjust the valves.

Here’s my problem. How do I know which lifter I’m on to be adjusted without having the engine apart like it was when I set them and could see the cam? What am I overthinking?

And yes, I used adjustable lifters!

I’ve heard/seen of a round tool that attaches to the crank but I can’t seem to find where to buy it.
Thanks!

[GB SISSON]

There aqre lots of ways, but this is mine. Pull plugs, rotate until #1 at tdc on compression. You will see that both valves are fully closed. If pulley isn't marked use a big end of a zip tie down the hole to feel for exact tdc. Now follow the firing order as you rotate to next one and next. Be careful not to over-use your wrench. Too much back and forth the lifter threads can get loose, and you know next time you'll be leaning over the fenders. Not fun. Good luck, it's satisfying getting those tickers silenced.

[19Fordy]

Here's a bunch of threads on how to adjust your adjustables.
https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/searc...rchid=41211252
Plus, take a look here:
https://www.bing.com/search?q=how%20...&ghacc=0&ghpl=

[Ronnieroadster]

Do as GB wrote above its by far the easiest way to adjust valve's. Its exactly how i do it in all the engine's I build and run as well as our Ford flathead V-8's that go well over 200 MPH.
Ronnieroadster

[busmania]

Originally Posted by GB SISSON

There aqre lots of ways, but this is mine. Pull plugs, rotate until #1 at tdc on compression. You will see that both valves are fully closed. If pulley isn't marked use a big end of a zip tie down the hole to feel for exact tdc. Now follow the firing order as you rotate to next one and next. Be careful not to over-use your wrench. Too much back and forth the lifter threads can get loose, and you know next time you'll be leaning over the fenders. Not fun. Good luck, it's satisfying getting those tickers silenced.

Thank you. So do the valves just need to be totally closed (and that cylinder on TDC) or does the cam lobe have to be positioned at the very bottom of its cycle (if that makes sense)? I was under the impression the valve had to be at the very end of the round part of the cam when its set (so completely opposite side of if it were fully open)? I hope that makes sense!

[cas3]

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When the piston is at TDC, both valves are within the base circle, or lowest point of the cam.

[Flathead Fever]

Just like everyone has said, when both lifters on the same cylinder are down all the way adjust the valves on that cylinder. It easy on flathead because you can see when both lifters have bottom out. I have a '66 GT-350 with a 289 and solid lifters. On that engine I have to use the harmonic balancer to adjust them, and they want them done hot, so I warm it up and remove one valve cover and do that side then put it back together warm it up again and then do the other side.

[37fatfender]

Here’s my method….

I-C-E. When the Intake Closes do the Exhaust (ICE)

E-O-I. When the Exhaust Opens do the Intake (EOI)

Easy to remember and it works!

[busmania]

Thanks yall. What if I don’t want to remove my heads to see the valves?

[tubman]

Originally Posted by busmania

Thanks yall. What if I don’t want to remove my heads to see the valves?

Watch the "pushrods" (lifters). Unless you have found a way to adjust the valves without removing the "valve cover" (intake manifold).

[GB SISSON]

What Denny is saying about watching the lifters is because they act directly against the valve's stem which you can also see once you pull the intake off to do the adjustment. It will all come back to you once you pull the intake. Think of it like an old volkswagon bus, but without all those crazy rocker arms and pushrods and such. Oh, and unlike the bus, you can stand in a normal upright position in your garage while you do the adjusting.

[Flathead Fever]

Originally Posted by busmania

Thanks yall. What if I don’t want to remove my heads to see the valves?

The heads don't need to come off but the intake will so you can get a feeler gauge between valve ends and the lifters. You're going to need some way of holding the lifters from spinning while you adjust them. Hopefully somebody has drilled the block so you can insert a drill bit in there to hold the lifter while you turn the adjuster. They make a tool that holds the lifter from turning but most people prefer to drill the lifter bores when rebuilding the engines. If your engine has not been drilled, you're going to need that adjuster tool to hold the lifters while you adjust them.

This video shows the holes many people drill in the lifter bores when they rebuild a flathead. If you're lucky your block will have them, if not you can still use the other tools shown.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KBN5SD8mPGU

[19Fordy]

busmania: Here's the wrench for adjusting you adjustables.
https://www.cjponyparts.com/tappet-a...ent=Best%20COS

[glennpm]

If you don't have the drilled holes to hold the lifters from twisting, it can be a nasty job!

My experience and a modification I made to the "Johnson Tool" is shown in this post.

https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showp...6&postcount=40

I also made a couple of additional pin tools for the next time.

https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showp...2&postcount=54

Glenn

[cas3]

use grease on the intake gasket so it can be reused a few times

[19Fordy]

busmania: glennpm's posting of his adjusting tools is "solid gold". Great advice.