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#1 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Lakewood, CA
Posts: 1,457
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I just replaced the rear end in my recently purchased 1929 woody.
I did not realize how bad the rear shakles were. |
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#2 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Western North Carolina
Posts: 5,855
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Was your woody wobbly? Be careful, the spring is ready to sprog.
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A is for apple, green as the sky. Step on the gas, for tomorrow I die. Forget the brakes, they really don't work. The clutch always sticks, and starts with a jerk. My car grows red hair, and flies through the air. Driving's a blast, a blast from the past. |
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#3 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Long Island, NY
Posts: 4,112
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From the looks of that spring hangar, I think the entire running gear has not had maintenance in a long long time.
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Bob Bidonde |
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#4 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Lakewood, CA
Posts: 1,457
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I placed a spring spreader on the spring, yesterday.
I plan on removing it, later today. |
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#5 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Southern California
Posts: 3,168
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A spring spreader should always be used when removing a rear end from a Model A, the rear spring can be lethal. Never remove the rear end with the spring attached. If the shackle is broken the spring can fly in any direction.
https://www.santaanitaas.org/wp-cont...ar-shackle.pdf Tom Endy |
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#6 |
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Join Date: Jan 2020
Location: SF Bay Area
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JayJay San Francisco Bay Area ------------------------ 1930 Murray Town Sedan 1931 Briggs S/W Town Sedan It isn't a defect, it's a feature! |
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#7 |
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Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Redondo Beach, CA
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Here is a great article from Vince Falter. https://www.fordgarage.com/pages/brokenshackles.htm
I had one break exactly as shown in Vince's and Tom's articles. They seem to break right thru thr grease hole. I found it when I was installing my Mitchell O/D. I don't really know how long it was broken. Last edited by Y-Blockhead; 08-04-2024 at 11:30 AM. |
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#8 | |
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Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Melbourne, Australia
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I sometimes wonder what happened to the people who asked me for directions. Even at my age, I still like to look at a young, attractive woman but I can't really remember why. |
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#9 |
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Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: Florida Panhandle
Posts: 626
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Plan on new bushings as well.
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#10 |
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Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Western North Carolina
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Look closely at the photos in Post #7 and 8. One hole in the link that bolts to the end of the shackle is elongated from wear. That will put a bending stress on the shackle at the lube hole and cause it to break. It may be that the nuts were not tightened sufficiently.
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A is for apple, green as the sky. Step on the gas, for tomorrow I die. Forget the brakes, they really don't work. The clutch always sticks, and starts with a jerk. My car grows red hair, and flies through the air. Driving's a blast, a blast from the past. |
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#11 | |
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Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Redondo Beach, CA
Posts: 6,644
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#12 |
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Join Date: Jan 2020
Location: SF Bay Area
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This was kinda my thought as well. The shackel has to move relative to the cross bar to get that wear, and to my mind it would only move if it was separated first.
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JayJay San Francisco Bay Area ------------------------ 1930 Murray Town Sedan 1931 Briggs S/W Town Sedan It isn't a defect, it's a feature! |
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#13 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Georgetown Divide Kelsey ca
Posts: 869
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Is that a piece of a dog boned shock link? a little corrosion.
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Dennis in Kelsey ca |
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#14 |
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Join Date: Jan 2020
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OP's pic #2 shows the dust cap and rubber bushing of an original tube shock link. But you're right, there's a bit of corrosion going on. And a fair bit of caked on dirt/mud.
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JayJay San Francisco Bay Area ------------------------ 1930 Murray Town Sedan 1931 Briggs S/W Town Sedan It isn't a defect, it's a feature! |
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#15 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Lakewood, CA
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I finally removed the rear spring.
The shackles wore into both axle housings. One of the shackles was actually broken in two. Last edited by Neil Mylar LakewoodCA; 08-06-2024 at 01:03 AM. |
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#16 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: brentwood, ca
Posts: 4,420
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No shocks.
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#17 |
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Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: Australia
Posts: 2,143
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They look a bit like our "redback" spider webs. If not,we can send you some.
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#18 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: San Antonio, Texas
Posts: 17,410
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The shackle will have just enough length to be able to hinge when the nuts are tight if properly manufactured. The shackle is highly stressed and depends on the nuts to be tight against the plates in order to restrict any flexing of the hinge parts while in service. Looseness will cause failure as much as lack of lube service. Fatigue is another factor that can be exacerbated by looseness of parts. I'm sure that the engineers never expected these parts to last 90+ years in the case of OEM parts. Parts of dubious manufacture and poor manufacturing practices will not take the designed stress of an OEM part. If they don't fit and function right then find another source for the affected part.
Last edited by rotorwrench; 08-06-2024 at 04:02 AM. |
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