Bad clutch chatter

[Russ/40]

OK, I must have goofed big time. My truck has been running like a watch now that I have the courage to get on the road and learn the ropes of driving a 90 year old car. Finally have mostly mastered the double clutching part, and have conquered the fear of getting to far from home. The problem is it has an awful clutch chatter. I admit I did not check the run-out on the flywheel when I put it together. I just put the the shims in the two top locations. Will I have to pull the motor to remedy this?

[RawhideKid]

Probably a good idea.

My wooden nickle worth.

[Tom Wesenberg]

I prefer to pull the rear end, but when my 29 shook like a paint shaker, I installed a new disc, good used pressure plate, lightly sanded the flywheel, and dialed in the flywheel cover. I didn't want to do the job twice, so I covered all bases. I don't know which action fixed the problem, as the disc I remove was almost new, and the pressure plate looked good. Anyway, it now takes off as smooth as an automatic.

[1crosscut]

A friend had really bad clutch chatter. After pulling the transmission out several times he finally found that the clutch disk had a small area (lump) that was thicker than the rest.

[V4F]

oil on the disc will do that

[Tony Hillyard]

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I had a similar problem with an early FIAT 500 clutch. I had fitted all new parts and it juddered like mad. After changing nearly everything again I finally found that the new clutch disc I had fitted, the centre boss was not quite in the middle!!!

I changed it again and it was perfect. The "NEW" clutch disc is now hanging on my workshop wall to remind me to check everything (even new parts) before I fit them.

Good luck.

[Will N]

Originally Posted by V4F

oil on the disc will do that

Yup. How many quarts of oil do you put in when you change the oil?

I made the mistake when I first got my A of putting 5 quarts in, because I'd read that the pan capacity was 5 quarts, not realizing that 1 quart always stayed in the dipper tray. Overfilling like this caused oil on my clutch disk which caused chatter. I cured it by burning it off. I revved up the engine and let the clutch slip until it burned off the oil.

[BILL WILLIAMSON]

Minervas' clutch chattered. I used SMOOTH second gear take offs, for a MONTH---CHATTER wuz GONE!
Bill W.

[Russ/40]

Originally Posted by BILL WILLIAMSON

Minervas' clutch chattered. I used SMOOTH second gear take offs, for a MONTH---CHATTER wuz GONE!
Bill W.

Now, that's interesting. I'll have to try that. I don't think it's oil on the disc, as I don't have any leaks yet.

[Jacksonlll]

Before you start taking things apart, make sure you don't have a broken rear spring shackle. I just had one and realized it after I put in a new disk. Have someone launch the truck while you watch the rear wheel. You just might see it shudder.

[Patrick L.]

The major causes are;
flywheel
pressure plate
clutch disk [ maybe]
bellhousing/clutch cover alignment
motor mount

I would recommend removing the inspection cover and taking a good look at things, especially that its fairly clean inside there and no oil leaks. You can get a good idea of the pressure plate adjustment by rotating the engine and looking at how and when the release bearing [ just push in the bearing until it just contacts the highest pressure plate finger] contacts the fingers. They should be within .002" of each other. That should give an adea whether they need adjusting. They can be adjusted in the vehicle if need be.

If you decide the monster needs to be taken apart I prefer to remove the rear end. I thinks it faster easier and you don't end up scratching anything pretty and shiny.

Then it'll be time to check the flywheel flange, flywheel, pressure plate adjustment, disk condition and housing alignments.

Make sure to mark the flywheel upon removal.

[Fullraceflathead]

Yes try the 2nd gear starts but don't rev it much.
It worked for me. I found that when I let someone else drive and rev it a lot it chatters like hell. If I do the 2nd gear starts at low rpm's it fixes itself in a few miles maybe 50 miles or so.
Try it, you have nothing to lose. The alternative is a lot of work that may not be necessary.

[BILL WILLIAMSON]

Originally Posted by Russ/40

Now, that's interesting. I'll have to try that. I don't think it's oil on the disc, as I don't have any leaks yet.

Russ,
I "think" it was just highs & lows in the lining material & the chattering just ADDED to them. Taking off from an idle in second was smooth as glass & ,I "think" that helped smooth down the HIGH spots.
I once worked part time for a clutch rebuilder & "understand" such things. Bill versed me on Ford clutches & ONLY let me rebuild THEM. He didn't think I had the "WHAMO" power to master the TOUGH rivets, on the G.M. Diaphragm pressure plates. BUT, it was a "CUP of TEA", doin' the discs.
If I made a list of all the things I've worked at, you wouldn't BELIEVE me! Once worked as a "professional" PICKLE TASTER, even! (I don't LIE, I like to sleep at night!)
Bill Truth

[Russ/40]

Originally Posted by Patrick L.

The major causes are;
flywheel
pressure plate
clutch disk [ maybe]
bellhousing/clutch cover alignment
motor mount

I would recommend removing the inspection cover and taking a good look at things, especially that its fairly clean inside there and no oil leaks. You can get a good idea of the pressure plate adjustment by rotating the engine and looking at how and when the release bearing [ just push in the bearing until it just contacts the highest pressure plate finger] contacts the fingers. They should be within .002" of each other. That should give an adea whether they need adjusting. They can be adjusted in the vehicle if need be.

If you decide the monster needs to be taken apart I prefer to remove the rear end. I thinks it faster easier and you don't end up scratching anything pretty and shiny.

Then it'll be time to check the flywheel flange, flywheel, pressure plate adjustment, disk condition and housing alignments.


Make sure to mark the flywheel upon removal.

Pat, can the flywheel cover run_out be adjusted in the vehicle? Every photo I have seen shows the setup with the engine nose on the floor.

[Patrick L.]

Originally Posted by Russ/40

Pat, can the flywheel cover run_out be adjusted in the vehicle? Every photo I have seen shows the setup with the engine nose on the floor.

Yes it can be done with the engine in the car. Its nice to be able to hang the engine so all the crank weight is downward. But, when measuring just keep forward pressure on the flywheel or crank flange. This is eliminating the crank end-play.


The pressure plate fingers can be adjusted in the car also, but, it takes time and patience and is not quite as good as doing it on a bench. But, its doable.

I would try what you can before removing the transmitter. One thing I think I forgot is to check the disk to see if it has all its springs in place [ they tend fall out at times] or if it is a disk that has no springs. I think the disks without springs are more prone to chatter.

I like the idea of trying anything before taking the monster apart including the second gear starts. I have no experience with those so can't really speak to them.

If you end taking things apart and can figure out a way of putting it back together with zippers, snaps or velcro let me know. I'd like to be able to do that.