Leaf springs

[aermotor]

I have dirty and rusty springs and new to Model A's so I am wondering what behaviour in driving I would observe. I intend to do what I can as far as relaxing, PB blasting and lubing while installed, but just want to drive it for awhile before getting into removal and proper spring restoration.

John

[Kurt in NJ]

If you do not have working shocks leave the springs rusty---this way the springs function as "friction shocks"

if you still want to lube start with the lube point in the hand crank bearing, then with oil can squirt down the spring, PB blaster doesn't have staying power ---my oil can most times has ATF, I have been using it in the shocks too ---

[jhowes]

If you are new to the Model A, then I would suggest that you read everything that you can on spring removal and replace as these things are weapons ready to do harm if not handled correctly. Get help from other Model A guys in your area. Jack

[Tom Wesenberg]

Just squirting oil on my springs made a very nice improvement in the ride. They were dry and rusty, so for now the oil worked wonders. I'll get around to restoring them later with new paint, grease and graphite, and most likely spring covers.

[aermotor]

Originally Posted by Tom Wesenberg

Just squirting oil on my springs made a very nice improvement in the ride. They were dry and rusty, so for now the oil worked wonders. I'll get around to restoring them later with new paint, grease and graphite, and most likely spring covers.

I do have modern shocks, A-18014 from Snyders. What was the ride like before oiling? My car seems like it is getting a cross wind gust ever so often, even though it wasn't windy, and wondering if the springs being rusty are causing it.

John

[Tom Wesenberg]

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My ride was like a hay wagon ride on the farm wagon. Now it rides like a car. If you have swaying, I'd be looking into loose steering parts and check the wheel alignment, mainly toe-in.

[Patrick L.]

If you're talking about the vehicle lurching for no real reason then I'd suspect something like a broken spring center bolt, bad shackle bushings etc. Even improper toe-in could cause to shuck and jive.

It really doesn't take to much to pull the springs apart [ just be mindful that there is a lot of tension on the rear so I take it apart while still mounted to the axle], clean and grind them smooth, grease them. You'll find grooved pretty badly.

[BILL WILLIAMSON]

Wear & breakage is common on Model A's, as they have ONLY 2 springs to do the job, unlike most cars that have 4 springs! Fashioned like BUGGY SPRINGS.
I recently saw a close up pic of a buggy spring, with SHACKLES that "might" fit a Model A! "Maybe" a new parts source???
Bill W.

[H. L. Chauvin]

The sharp edges of the Model A spring leaves which slides on top of the lower spring leaves immediately down below wears a recess into the top of the spring leaves further below.

Next, at the outside end of the worn recess of the spring leaves below, one finds another sharp almost 90 degree edge.

When driving on uneven road surfaces, the top spring leaves slide outwards until they contact the damn like sharp edge of the leaves below ..... similar to running into a brick wall where springing action ceases to exist.

Fifty thousand car loads of axle grease mixed with Revlon hand lotion and boiled sweet potatoes will never allow this top spring leaf to ride over this abrupt brick wall and allow your Model A springs to function as designed.

Best to get a cheap Harbor Freight side grinder to smooth out the top of the lower spring's brick wall below, and next ease the undersides of the spring leaves on top to save your springs from further wear and allow them to function as designed.

Hint: If anyone cannot understand why continuing to brush one's teeth with sandpaper is not recommended .......... just ask a dentist for his catalog to see what kind of false teeth are available.

[Terry, NJ]

I am doing this to my rear spring now. The spring is under very little tension and out of the car so I stood it up and put a combo of STP and thick oil on the the leaves at the point where the the end of the leaf has a small radius or lead angle. The big But Is, My spring is out of the car, no tension and the oil can run downhill to get further up the leaves. So , Take the spring out to lubricate it? One helluva lot of work to accomplish this! Get a oil can with a trigger and squirt it every chance you get and get one of those spring covers to keep the dust and dirts and water out. Some oil will penetrate with capillary action. Sorry, But Henry didn't make good provisions for lubricating the springs.
Terry

[Y-Blockhead]

Another thread not too long ago... https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=215460

[Synchro909]

Originally Posted by aermotor

I do have modern shocks, A-18014 from Snyders. What was the ride like before oiling? My car seems like it is getting a cross wind gust ever so often, even though it wasn't windy, and wondering if the springs being rusty are causing it.

John

You're going to get a few ideas on what causes your "wandering". My thought is that is not to do with the springs, just a characteristic of the old cross ply tyre construction. When these tyres run along an irregularity in the road, they want to follow it and as you try to pull the car back, nothing seems to happen for a while, then they come with a rush. Some roads that carry a lot of heavy vehicles can have longitudinal depressions in them made by the wheels of these heavy vehicles. They are sometimes not so easy to see but the effect they have on your steering is dramatic. Radial ply tyres are unaffected by such surface irregularities and we are all now accustomed to radials. Going back to cross ply tyres is a rude shock at first.

[rocket1]

Spring is out of car with no tension! I wouldn't stand over it,the center bolt may let go and you will find out the tension it possessed.

[Mitch//pa]

Deleted

[BILL WILLIAMSON]

Originally Posted by Synchro909

You're going to get a few ideas on what causes your "wandering". My thought is that is not to do with the springs, just a characteristic of the old cross ply tyre construction. When these tyres run along an irregularity in the road, they want to follow it and as you try to pull the car back, nothing seems to happen for a while, then they come with a rush. Some roads that carry a lot of heavy vehicles can have longitudinal depressions in them made by the wheels of these heavy vehicles. They are sometimes not so easy to see but the effect they have on your steering is dramatic. Radial ply tyres are unaffected by such surface irregularities and we are all now accustomed to radials. Going back to cross ply tyres is a rude shock at first.

My FIRST set of RADIAL tyres was on a '72 Mercury Montego, it was absolutely like driving a DIFFERENT CAR
Bill Straight

[Synchro909]

Originally Posted by BILL WILLIAMSON

My FIRST set of RADIAL tyres was on a '72 Mercury Montego, it was absolutely like driving a DIFFERENT CAR
Bill Straight

I bet you couldn't believe the difference - for the better. Imagine going back to the old style tyres now! Younger drivers haven't experienced the joys of them. Imagine if you put one in a car fitted with cross ply tyres.

[Terry, NJ]

VERY TRUE! But I meant relatively much less tension. Certainly there is still some tension present, The opening at the front of each leaf is slightly wider.
Terry

Originally Posted by rocket1

Spring is out of car with no tension! I wouldn't stand over it,the center bolt may let go and you will find out the tension it possessed.