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#1 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Williamsburg, VA
Posts: 510
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I am replacing the clutch disk and pressure plate. I have cleaned the dust/oil from the flywheel and housing. The flywheel surface is completely smooth, is that how it should be?
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#2 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Asheville,NC
Posts: 3,104
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Yes but, there should be no heat cracks or scuffs. You would be well served to take the FW and have it re-surfaced. It only costs 25-35$ and will keep you from having to pull it out afterwards to do it later because of chatter or slipping.
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#3 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Mpls, MN
Posts: 27,582
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My 29 Tudor had the worst case of jitters I ever saw when letting out the clutch. I pulled the rear end and took out the clutch pressure plate and flywheel. All 3 parts looked excellent, but I installed a new disc, good used pressure plate, and sanded the flywheel using my 4" palm sander. Now it's as smooth as an automatic. At the least I'd give the flywheel a light sanding like I did.
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#4 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Didsbury Alberta
Posts: 838
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If you take the flywheel off to have re-surfaced as previously suggested, mark the location of the flywheel to the crankshaft flange using either a small prick punch mark or paint stick. Use good original flywheel bolts that have not been over stretched, not repo.
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#5 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: rowland PA
Posts: 186
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Runout is as important as a smooth surface. It should be checked with a dial indicator. Maybe someone has the spec? I once watched an old timer use emory cloth on a flywheel while the engine was running (with the trans and clutch removed). It looked dangerous.
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#6 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: new britain,ct 06052
Posts: 9,428
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Paul in CT |
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#7 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Ellis County, Texas
Posts: 337
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#8 |
Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Wellington
Posts: 55
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I can vouch for James comments about having the fly wheel resurfaced. I had a bad clutch judder years ago on a Cortina that replacing the clutch plate & pressure plate several times couldn't get rid of. Resurfacing the flywheel did the trick, giving a nice, smooth feel at the pedal.
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#9 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: santa cruz, calif
Posts: 2,011
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remember that if you resurface the clutch contact surface of the flywheel you also must reduce the pressure plate mounting flange of the flywheel by the same amount. The distance from the flange to the surface should be 1.123 to 1.125
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#10 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2010
Posts: 837
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.005" max flywheel runout.
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#11 |
Member
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Loveland Colorado
Posts: 74
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This is the information i was looking for Thank you. I pulled my clutch and flywheel off and i have a ridge on the flywheel and it needs to be re surfaced. but i didn't know how that would work with the pressure plate mounts.
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#12 |
Member
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Loveland Colorado
Posts: 74
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![]() ![]() ![]() Here is a photo of my flywheel and the current measurement Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk |
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#13 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: Texas
Posts: 177
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I've only done two clutch repairs, first only cleaned the flywheel surface. Ok results but not perfect. This month I did my second and had the flywheel surfaced, much better result.
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#14 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: ASTON, PA.
Posts: 725
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I always resurface the flywheel when changing the clutch & pp ! I also replace the ring gear too.
mike |
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#15 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Southern California
Posts: 3,168
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Many of these Model A flywheels have been re-surfaced numerous times. It is prudent to consider that so much material has been removed that the springs in the clutch disk will contact the heads of the four bolts holding the flywheel.
What I do before final assembly is to coat the heads of the bolts with chalk, then place the disk against the surface of the flywheel and rotate it to see if any chalk transfers to the springs. The heads of the bolts can also be machined slightly to add clearance. Tom Endy |
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#16 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: freeport il
Posts: 316
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I agree with tom why take off good metal? also the guy that surfaces it may do more harm than good. years ago I worked for a place with a small fleet of trucks lots of clutch changes! all we ever did was lightly sand the f/w with fine paper on a elec. palm sander never woried about the heat checks or groves!
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#17 |
Member
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Loveland Colorado
Posts: 74
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I have a ridge that needs to be cleaned up on my flywheel, I looked in a few of the books and trying to verify the flange to the surface should be 1.123 to 1.125. before i send it out. The reason i want it cleaned up is that i don't want to have to replace a lot of clutches.
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#18 |
Member
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Loveland Colorado
Posts: 74
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I had to make a run down to Denver today and the fine folks at Bert's had a flywheel that was all ready to go, so I exchanged mine and picked a few shims. Now if everything goes well on reassembly my clutch set up should be good for long while.
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#19 |
Member
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Loveland Colorado
Posts: 74
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http://www.antiqueenginerebuilding.c...nFlywheel.html
I still need to go through the books and I did order a tool to help take the measurements on the fly wheel hopefully everything is good to go and no need for the shims but i picked up some yesterday just in case. |
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#20 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: NC
Posts: 2,975
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I would never resurface a flywheel unless it needs it. If you get the wrong guy to do it you will really have problems. Most of the time you can sand the glaze off.
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