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Old 02-21-2015, 11:33 PM   #1
CA Victoria
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Default KR Wilson Line Bore Frame

The KRW Model A Line Bore frame I purchased has had the Babbitt removed. It is still straight and true and no signs of heating.

Anyone have experience replacing the bearings in one?
Maybe just another piece of wall art?
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Old 02-22-2015, 12:15 AM   #2
Tom Wesenberg
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Default Re: KR Wilson Line Bore Frame

What is jigging putty? Does it get hard, or stay somewhat soft? What color is it? I assume it's good for high temps?

I'm trying to figure if it might be used for the distributor plug.
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Old 02-22-2015, 12:48 AM   #3
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Default Re: KR Wilson Line Bore Frame

Thanks Ray, maybe mix a little lamp black in and it might be good for the distributor plug.
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Old 02-22-2015, 01:25 AM   #4
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Default Re: KR Wilson Line Bore Frame

Tom, Do you mean the little plug that one places over the condenser fastener screw hole? It was some kind of a tar or resin looking black dollop of hardened goo in the original form. Nobody seems to know except approximately what it looked like. Let me know if that's what you mean because "Fred" and I have worked something out for it. Rancho
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Old 02-22-2015, 01:25 AM   #5
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Default Re: KR Wilson Line Bore Frame

http://en.wiktionary.org/wiki/tinker%27s_damn

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Old 02-22-2015, 08:53 AM   #6
Tom Wesenberg
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Default Re: KR Wilson Line Bore Frame

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Rancho, yes, that's what I mean. A friend of mine has the original plug still in his distributor.
I wonder if the Benson Ford Research Library has any details about the plug?
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Old 02-22-2015, 11:35 AM   #7
Tom Elliott
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Default Re: KR Wilson Line Bore Frame

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Originally Posted by 1930 coupe View Post
Make two centering cones to center the bar. Make a round flat washer, so to speak to slide over the bar up to the frame to keep the Babbitt from coming out the bottom, find some key stock to fit the slot in the frame the key stock needs to go against the bar. Tin the frame where the Babbitt goes with 50-50 solder. coat your bar and the key stock with black soot from your torch so the Babbitt will not stick on it. Install the bar, washer and centering cones on both ends and put jigging putty around the washer if needed, stand the frame on end and do the center bearing first. heat the frame around the bearing to 200 or 300 degrees before poring. then move the washer to one of the ends then do the ends one at a time. the finished bearing needs a slot so the bar can be removed without removing the cutters, the key stock keeps the Babbitt from filling this slot.
For jigging putty we use plain ole plumbers putty, works great. Tom
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Old 02-22-2015, 12:18 PM   #8
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Default Re: KR Wilson Line Bore Frame

This is how Bill Barlow solved this. He uses a boring bar with removable cutters.
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Old 02-22-2015, 02:14 PM   #9
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Default Re: KR Wilson Line Bore Frame

James,
That sounds like the most reasonable solution.
I need to machine the bushings to fit the frame. What I'm hearing is that the bores in the frame are precision machined. I was wondering how I was to center new bearings in the frame if they were not.....
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Old 02-22-2015, 10:38 PM   #10
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Default Re: KR Wilson Line Bore Frame

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James,
That sounds like the most reasonable solution.
I need to machine the bushings to fit the frame. What I'm hearing is that the bores in the frame are precision machined. I was wondering how I was to center new bearings in the frame if they were not.....
If they are not, you will have the same problem with babbitt as you will with bronze. The bronze will last longer.
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