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CA Victoria 02-21-2015 11:33 PM

KR Wilson Line Bore Frame
 

1 Attachment(s)
The KRW Model A Line Bore frame I purchased has had the Babbitt removed. It is still straight and true and no signs of heating.

Anyone have experience replacing the bearings in one?
Maybe just another piece of wall art?

Tom Wesenberg 02-22-2015 12:15 AM

Re: KR Wilson Line Bore Frame
 

What is jigging putty? Does it get hard, or stay somewhat soft? What color is it? I assume it's good for high temps?

I'm trying to figure if it might be used for the distributor plug.

Tom Wesenberg 02-22-2015 12:48 AM

Re: KR Wilson Line Bore Frame
 

Thanks Ray, maybe mix a little lamp black in and it might be good for the distributor plug.

Rancho Deluxe 02-22-2015 01:25 AM

Re: KR Wilson Line Bore Frame
 

Tom, Do you mean the little plug that one places over the condenser fastener screw hole? It was some kind of a tar or resin looking black dollop of hardened goo in the original form. Nobody seems to know except approximately what it looked like. Let me know if that's what you mean because "Fred" and I have worked something out for it. Rancho

Joe K 02-22-2015 01:25 AM

Re: KR Wilson Line Bore Frame
 

http://en.wiktionary.org/wiki/tinker%27s_damn

Joe K

Tom Wesenberg 02-22-2015 08:53 AM

Re: KR Wilson Line Bore Frame
 

Rancho, yes, that's what I mean. A friend of mine has the original plug still in his distributor.
I wonder if the Benson Ford Research Library has any details about the plug?

Tom Elliott 02-22-2015 11:35 AM

Re: KR Wilson Line Bore Frame
 

Quote:

Originally Posted by 1930 coupe (Post 1037969)
Make two centering cones to center the bar. Make a round flat washer, so to speak to slide over the bar up to the frame to keep the Babbitt from coming out the bottom, find some key stock to fit the slot in the frame the key stock needs to go against the bar. Tin the frame where the Babbitt goes with 50-50 solder. coat your bar and the key stock with black soot from your torch so the Babbitt will not stick on it. Install the bar, washer and centering cones on both ends and put jigging putty around the washer if needed, stand the frame on end and do the center bearing first. heat the frame around the bearing to 200 or 300 degrees before poring. then move the washer to one of the ends then do the ends one at a time. the finished bearing needs a slot so the bar can be removed without removing the cutters, the key stock keeps the Babbitt from filling this slot.

For jigging putty we use plain ole plumbers putty, works great. Tom

James Rogers 02-22-2015 12:18 PM

Re: KR Wilson Line Bore Frame
 

2 Attachment(s)
This is how Bill Barlow solved this. He uses a boring bar with removable cutters.

CA Victoria 02-22-2015 02:14 PM

Re: KR Wilson Line Bore Frame
 

James,
That sounds like the most reasonable solution.
I need to machine the bushings to fit the frame. What I'm hearing is that the bores in the frame are precision machined. I was wondering how I was to center new bearings in the frame if they were not.....

James Rogers 02-22-2015 10:38 PM

Re: KR Wilson Line Bore Frame
 

Quote:

Originally Posted by CA Victoria (Post 1038320)
James,
That sounds like the most reasonable solution.
I need to machine the bushings to fit the frame. What I'm hearing is that the bores in the frame are precision machined. I was wondering how I was to center new bearings in the frame if they were not.....

If they are not, you will have the same problem with babbitt as you will with bronze. The bronze will last longer.


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