The Ford Barn

saltman · 06-21-2013, 12:33 PM

A mechanic and I just pulled the pan on my 28 Coupe and followed up with a new/modern cork (thick rubbery) gasket set that Snyders sells. The install just was not that easy.. took both of us. Nonetheless, we meticulously cleaned both mating surfaces. The old one was paper and was peratexd fully on both sides.... it never leaked a drop.. nowhere! We did have to use some adhesive in spots to hold the new gasket to block. We had a very difficult time getting the bolts started due to the thickness/rigidity of this particular gasket set. The rear seal appeared to be 'too thick and ridgid' and was somewhat difficult to use. Regardless, after the install, I drove the vehicle about 6 miles home. And, upon inspection the pan gasket is leaking at both front and back at an unacceptable rate... Appears to be more leakage at the front. It doesn't suprise me that the rope seal will not seal due to the thickness of the side gaskets. Now, after studying more about this, we did NOT put a blob of sealant where the side gaskets and the end gaskets meet.. and, we did NOT put any sealant on the end bolts. Is this the source of the leaks??? I would like to make sure since I am going to have to do it again. But, I have to say, I just wasn't that happy with this thick/ridgid/cumbersome gasket set. It really doesn't surprise me that its leaking. So, since the permatexed paper gasket on it never leaked, it that really the way to go for a non leaking pan gasket? OK... the questions are a bit long-winded, but wanted to make my point clear. This is a constant problem among Model Aers and there should be a prefered gasket and method for all. Someone please address my problems... just plain disappointed considering the effort we made. Saltman

Tom Wesenberg · 06-21-2013, 03:39 PM

I like the common cork or paper gaskets that are about 1/8" thick, and I always use a bit of silicone where the side gaskets meet the end gaskets, or the front rope seal.

Steve Wastler · 06-21-2013, 03:42 PM

Did you remember to NOT trim the rope seals, they are intended to be above the surface of the pan.

zzlegend · 06-21-2013, 05:02 PM

I just did this 2 weeks ago. I used a few small dabs of Indian Head sealer on the block side of the gasket to hold it to the block and then I oiled the rope seal and tapped it into the pan with a hard round pipe about the same diameter of the pan and used a small dab of red high temp silicone at the 4 corners where the gaskets meet and installed the pan and snugged the bolts in a very random pattern. Snugged down nicely and no leaks. Also I bought my pan gasket set from Steve at Berts. Excellent service and good guality gasket. Good luck with it.

Maclab58 · 06-21-2013, 05:03 PM

What's the best way to stick the rear cork seal to the rear crank journal while you push the pan in place?

Tom Wesenberg · 06-21-2013, 05:07 PM

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

Quote:

Originally Posted by Maclab58

What's the best way to stick the rear cork seal to the rear crank journal while you push the pan in place?

It is a tight fit to get it into the groove, so NO sealer is needed to hold it in place. If your's is a loose fit, then it's not the right gasket.

Maclab58 · 06-21-2013, 05:08 PM

Thanks Tom!

zzlegend · 06-21-2013, 05:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tom Wesenberg

It is a tight fit to get it into the groove, so NO sealer is needed to hold it in place. If your's is a loose fit, then it's not the right gasket.

Tom has it right.

Tom Wesenberg · 06-21-2013, 06:33 PM

Here's a few pictures of how I do the gasket and rope seal. I put a thin coat of sealer on the rear main shims and bolts also. And, don't forget the gasket between the block and flywheel cover.

Purdy Swoft · 06-21-2013, 06:37 PM

There is two different size rear oil pan seals. The 28-29 forged rear main bearing cap uses a 13/32 wide seal. The 30-31 cast rear main bearing cap uses a rear oil pan seal that is 3/8 wide. I use the thick paper or cardbord oil pan gaskets from Bratton. Brattons oil pan gasket sets both have both size rear oil pan seals so you can't go wrong.

700rpm · 06-21-2013, 07:02 PM

Everyone soaks the front rope seal in oil for a few hours before installation (or should), and I also soak the rear seal. I leave the rear seal about 1/8" long on each side, and I don't trim the rope at all. Soaking the rear seal makes the cork a little more flexible and easier to fit into the bearing cap. Then I proceed as Tom shows above.

Also, make sure your pan edges are flat and aligned, not warped or bent.

glenn in camino · 06-21-2013, 07:38 PM

When replacing the pan gasket, always replace the front rope seal. Soak the rope seal in oil for a day before using. Don't trim the rope seal.

redmodelt · 06-21-2013, 10:04 PM

The rear seal need to be trimmed to fit. The modern style gasket set sold by Snyders is good to use if the motor is on a stand and upside down but not so good working under the car. The composition rear seal is almost too stiff to use. Do not over tighten the bolts holding the pan on, that comp. gasket squishes quite a bit, too much in my OP. Some may have good luck with that set, I will not use them. I use the old style.

SteveB31 · 06-21-2013, 10:41 PM

Keep in mind guys that their are 7 different CURRENT manufacturers of Model A Ford oil pan gaskets. And they are VERY different..

We use in our engines and sell only the A&L pan gasket and they are wonderful gaskets if installed correctly.

We have tried all the others, and they all can work, but not as easy to make work well.

Steve Becker
Berts Model A Center

zzlegend · 06-22-2013, 07:02 AM

Thanks for posting Steve. Your gasket worked perfect on mine. Nice fit and simple install.

Jordan · 06-22-2013, 12:59 PM

I didn't use a gasket on mine. Just used a some of that black gasket maker. Didn't have to worry about getting a gasket just right, and it seals better than any gasket. Hasn't dripped a drop yet.

1931 flamingo · 06-22-2013, 01:15 PM

Jordan: What happens the next time the pan has to come off??
Paul in CT

Jordan · 06-22-2013, 01:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 1931 flamingo

Jordan: What happens the next time the pan has to come off??
Paul in CT

What about it? Just take a razor blade and slice in between the block and the pan. Then take a razor blade and scrape the material off the two surfaces. But I don't plan on taking the pan off again anytime soon.

1931 flamingo · 06-22-2013, 03:21 PM

Jordan: Thanks ! I'm assuming it stays somewhat pliable??
Paul

Purdy Swoft · 06-22-2013, 04:44 PM

Back in the sixties, I had a large tube of gasket material. I think the name of the stuff was Form A gasket. It never really hardened up. If I only had pieces of some gaskets , I could fill in the gaps and bad spots with Form A gasket and it worked good. I didn't buy many gaskets.

06-21-2013, 12:33 PM	#1
saltman Member Join Date: Mar 2011 Posts: 82	Oil Pan Gasket Installation A mechanic and I just pulled the pan on my 28 Coupe and followed up with a new/modern cork (thick rubbery) gasket set that Snyders sells. The install just was not that easy.. took both of us. Nonetheless, we meticulously cleaned both mating surfaces. The old one was paper and was peratexd fully on both sides.... it never leaked a drop.. nowhere! We did have to use some adhesive in spots to hold the new gasket to block. We had a very difficult time getting the bolts started due to the thickness/rigidity of this particular gasket set. The rear seal appeared to be 'too thick and ridgid' and was somewhat difficult to use. Regardless, after the install, I drove the vehicle about 6 miles home. And, upon inspection the pan gasket is leaking at both front and back at an unacceptable rate... Appears to be more leakage at the front. It doesn't suprise me that the rope seal will not seal due to the thickness of the side gaskets. Now, after studying more about this, we did NOT put a blob of sealant where the side gaskets and the end gaskets meet.. and, we did NOT put any sealant on the end bolts. Is this the source of the leaks??? I would like to make sure since I am going to have to do it again. But, I have to say, I just wasn't that happy with this thick/ridgid/cumbersome gasket set. It really doesn't surprise me that its leaking. So, since the permatexed paper gasket on it never leaked, it that really the way to go for a non leaking pan gasket? OK... the questions are a bit long-winded, but wanted to make my point clear. This is a constant problem among Model Aers and there should be a prefered gasket and method for all. Someone please address my problems... just plain disappointed considering the effort we made. Saltman

06-21-2013, 03:39 PM	#2
Tom Wesenberg Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Mpls, MN Posts: 27,582	Re: Oil Pan Gasket Installation I like the common cork or paper gaskets that are about 1/8" thick, and I always use a bit of silicone where the side gaskets meet the end gaskets, or the front rope seal.

06-21-2013, 03:42 PM	#3
Steve Wastler Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Posts: 1,987	Re: Oil Pan Gasket Installation Did you remember to NOT trim the rope seals, they are intended to be above the surface of the pan.

06-21-2013, 05:02 PM	#4
zzlegend Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Reseda, Calif. Posts: 2,191	Re: Oil Pan Gasket Installation I just did this 2 weeks ago. I used a few small dabs of Indian Head sealer on the block side of the gasket to hold it to the block and then I oiled the rope seal and tapped it into the pan with a hard round pipe about the same diameter of the pan and used a small dab of red high temp silicone at the 4 corners where the gaskets meet and installed the pan and snugged the bolts in a very random pattern. Snugged down nicely and no leaks. Also I bought my pan gasket set from Steve at Berts. Excellent service and good guality gasket. Good luck with it.

06-21-2013, 05:03 PM	#5
Maclab58 Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2010 Location: Wichita Falls, Texas Posts: 983	Re: Oil Pan Gasket Installation What's the best way to stick the rear cork seal to the rear crank journal while you push the pan in place?

06-21-2013, 05:08 PM	#7
Maclab58 Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2010 Location: Wichita Falls, Texas Posts: 983	Re: Oil Pan Gasket Installation Thanks Tom!

06-21-2013, 06:37 PM	#10
Purdy Swoft Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Alabama Posts: 8,099	Re: Oil Pan Gasket Installation There is two different size rear oil pan seals. The 28-29 forged rear main bearing cap uses a 13/32 wide seal. The 30-31 cast rear main bearing cap uses a rear oil pan seal that is 3/8 wide. I use the thick paper or cardbord oil pan gaskets from Bratton. Brattons oil pan gasket sets both have both size rear oil pan seals so you can't go wrong.

06-21-2013, 07:02 PM	#11
700rpm Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Portland, Oregon Posts: 6,039	Re: Oil Pan Gasket Installation Everyone soaks the front rope seal in oil for a few hours before installation (or should), and I also soak the rear seal. I leave the rear seal about 1/8" long on each side, and I don't trim the rope at all. Soaking the rear seal makes the cork a little more flexible and easier to fit into the bearing cap. Then I proceed as Tom shows above. Also, make sure your pan edges are flat and aligned, not warped or bent. __________________ Ray Horton, Portland, OR As you go through life, keep your eye on the donut, not the hole.

06-21-2013, 07:38 PM	#12
glenn in camino Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Camino, CA. Posts: 3,086	Re: Oil Pan Gasket Installation When replacing the pan gasket, always replace the front rope seal. Soak the rope seal in oil for a day before using. Don't trim the rope seal.

06-21-2013, 10:04 PM	#13
redmodelt Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Portland OR Posts: 6,410	Re: Oil Pan Gasket Installation The rear seal need to be trimmed to fit. The modern style gasket set sold by Snyders is good to use if the motor is on a stand and upside down but not so good working under the car. The composition rear seal is almost too stiff to use. Do not over tighten the bolts holding the pan on, that comp. gasket squishes quite a bit, too much in my OP. Some may have good luck with that set, I will not use them. I use the old style.

06-21-2013, 10:41 PM	#14
SteveB31 Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Englewood, Colorado Posts: 1,377	Re: Oil Pan Gasket Installation Keep in mind guys that their are 7 different CURRENT manufacturers of Model A Ford oil pan gaskets. And they are VERY different.. We use in our engines and sell only the A&L pan gasket and they are wonderful gaskets if installed correctly. We have tried all the others, and they all can work, but not as easy to make work well. Steve Becker Berts Model A Center

06-22-2013, 07:02 AM	#15
zzlegend Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Reseda, Calif. Posts: 2,191	Re: Oil Pan Gasket Installation Thanks for posting Steve. Your gasket worked perfect on mine. Nice fit and simple install.

06-22-2013, 12:59 PM	#16
Jordan Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Ft. Worth Posts: 1,008	Re: Oil Pan Gasket Installation I didn't use a gasket on mine. Just used a some of that black gasket maker. Didn't have to worry about getting a gasket just right, and it seals better than any gasket. Hasn't dripped a drop yet. __________________ Cowtown A's

06-22-2013, 01:15 PM	#17
1931 flamingo Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: new britain,ct 06052 Posts: 9,428	Re: Oil Pan Gasket Installation Jordan: What happens the next time the pan has to come off?? Paul in CT

06-22-2013, 03:21 PM	#19
1931 flamingo Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: new britain,ct 06052 Posts: 9,428	Re: Oil Pan Gasket Installation Jordan: Thanks ! I'm assuming it stays somewhat pliable?? Paul

06-22-2013, 04:44 PM	#20
Purdy Swoft Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Alabama Posts: 8,099	Re: Oil Pan Gasket Installation Back in the sixties, I had a large tube of gasket material. I think the name of the stuff was Form A gasket. It never really hardened up. If I only had pieces of some gaskets , I could fill in the gaps and bad spots with Form A gasket and it worked good. I didn't buy many gaskets.