Oil Pan Gasket Installation
 

A mechanic and I just pulled the pan on my 28 Coupe and followed up with a new/modern cork (thick rubbery) gasket set that Snyders sells. The install just was not that easy.. took both of us. Nonetheless, we meticulously cleaned both mating surfaces. The old one was paper and was peratexd fully on both sides.... it never leaked a drop.. nowhere! We did have to use some adhesive in spots to hold the new gasket to block. We had a very difficult time getting the bolts started due to the thickness/rigidity of this particular gasket set. The rear seal appeared to be 'too thick and ridgid' and was somewhat difficult to use. Regardless, after the install, I drove the vehicle about 6 miles home. And, upon inspection the pan gasket is leaking at both front and back at an unacceptable rate... Appears to be more leakage at the front. It doesn't suprise me that the rope seal will not seal due to the thickness of the side gaskets. Now, after studying more about this, we did NOT put a blob of sealant where the side gaskets and the end gaskets meet.. and, we did NOT put any sealant on the end bolts. Is this the source of the leaks??? I would like to make sure since I am going to have to do it again. But, I have to say, I just wasn't that happy with this thick/ridgid/cumbersome gasket set. It really doesn't surprise me that its leaking. So, since the permatexed paper gasket on it never leaked, it that really the way to go for a non leaking pan gasket? OK... the questions are a bit long-winded, but wanted to make my point clear. This is a constant problem among Model Aers and there should be a prefered gasket and method for all. Someone please address my problems... just plain disappointed considering the effort we made. Saltman

Re: Oil Pan Gasket Installation
 

I like the common cork or paper gaskets that are about 1/8" thick, and I always use a bit of silicone where the side gaskets meet the end gaskets, or the front rope seal.

Re: Oil Pan Gasket Installation
 

Did you remember to NOT trim the rope seals, they are intended to be above the surface of the pan.

Re: Oil Pan Gasket Installation
 

I just did this 2 weeks ago. I used a few small dabs of Indian Head sealer on the block side of the gasket to hold it to the block and then I oiled the rope seal and tapped it into the pan with a hard round pipe about the same diameter of the pan and used a small dab of red high temp silicone at the 4 corners where the gaskets meet and installed the pan and snugged the bolts in a very random pattern. Snugged down nicely and no leaks. Also I bought my pan gasket set from Steve at Berts. Excellent service and good guality gasket. Good luck with it.

Re: Oil Pan Gasket Installation
 

What's the best way to stick the rear cork seal to the rear crank journal while you push the pan in place?

Re: Oil Pan Gasket Installation
 

It is a tight fit to get it into the groove, so NO sealer is needed to hold it in place. If your's is a loose fit, then it's not the right gasket.

Re: Oil Pan Gasket Installation
 

Thanks Tom!

Re: Oil Pan Gasket Installation
 

Tom has it right.

Re: Oil Pan Gasket Installation
 

Here's a few pictures of how I do the gasket and rope seal. I put a thin coat of sealer on the rear main shims and bolts also. And, don't forget the gasket between the block and flywheel cover.

Re: Oil Pan Gasket Installation
 

There is two different size rear oil pan seals. The 28-29 forged rear main bearing cap uses a 13/32 wide seal. The 30-31 cast rear main bearing cap uses a rear oil pan seal that is 3/8 wide. I use the thick paper or cardbord oil pan gaskets from Bratton. Brattons oil pan gasket sets both have both size rear oil pan seals so you can't go wrong.

Re: Oil Pan Gasket Installation
 

Everyone soaks the front rope seal in oil for a few hours before installation (or should), and I also soak the rear seal. I leave the rear seal about 1/8" long on each side, and I don't trim the rope at all. Soaking the rear seal makes the cork a little more flexible and easier to fit into the bearing cap. Then I proceed as Tom shows above.

Also, make sure your pan edges are flat and aligned, not warped or bent.

Re: Oil Pan Gasket Installation
 

When replacing the pan gasket, always replace the front rope seal. Soak the rope seal in oil for a day before using. Don't trim the rope seal.

Re: Oil Pan Gasket Installation
 

The rear seal need to be trimmed to fit. The modern style gasket set sold by Snyders is good to use if the motor is on a stand and upside down but not so good working under the car. The composition rear seal is almost too stiff to use. Do not over tighten the bolts holding the pan on, that comp. gasket squishes quite a bit, too much in my OP. Some may have good luck with that set, I will not use them. I use the old style.

Re: Oil Pan Gasket Installation
 

Keep in mind guys that their are 7 different CURRENT manufacturers of Model A Ford oil pan gaskets. And they are VERY different..

We use in our engines and sell only the A&L pan gasket and they are wonderful gaskets if installed correctly.

We have tried all the others, and they all can work, but not as easy to make work well.

Steve Becker
Berts Model A Center

Re: Oil Pan Gasket Installation
 

Thanks for posting Steve. Your gasket worked perfect on mine. Nice fit and simple install.;)

Re: Oil Pan Gasket Installation
 

I didn't use a gasket on mine. Just used a some of that black gasket maker. Didn't have to worry about getting a gasket just right, and it seals better than any gasket. Hasn't dripped a drop yet.

Re: Oil Pan Gasket Installation
 

Jordan: What happens the next time the pan has to come off??
Paul in CT

Re: Oil Pan Gasket Installation
 

What about it? Just take a razor blade and slice in between the block and the pan. Then take a razor blade and scrape the material off the two surfaces. But I don't plan on taking the pan off again anytime soon.

Re: Oil Pan Gasket Installation
 

Jordan: Thanks ! I'm assuming it stays somewhat pliable??
Paul

Re: Oil Pan Gasket Installation
 

Back in the sixties, I had a large tube of gasket material. I think the name of the stuff was Form A gasket. It never really hardened up. If I only had pieces of some gaskets , I could fill in the gaps and bad spots with Form A gasket and it worked good. I didn't buy many gaskets.