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#1 |
Member
Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 76
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I bought 2 1930 Tudor Sedans and was wondering if you take front and rear bumpers off can you get both cars on a 18' trailer with 3 foot ramps extended out the rear of the trailer. Has anyone tryed this before?
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#2 |
Member
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: sherwood arkansas
Posts: 83
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i put mine on a 18 footer kinda in the center, itll prob be pretty tight, how far is the pick up site
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#3 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Anchorage, Alaska
Posts: 9,192
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When (IF) you get them on the trailer, be sure and take a picture to show us how you did it!
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#4 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Stayton, Oregon
Posts: 3,806
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If I remember correctly, the wheelbase is 103 inches which is 8.58 feet times 2 equals 17.16 feet plus 19 inches times 2 for front and back wheels plus tires (12 in. est.) times 2 equals 22.32 feet. Plus you have fenders that extend beyond that. Would seem like it would be kind of tight even with bumpers off.
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#5 |
Member
Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 76
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It will be 800 loaded miles
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#6 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Eastern Tennessee
Posts: 11,971
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On an open trailer, you can get them on a 24'. Below is my trailer that has a 25' deck (including the dovetail on the back). As you can see, the entire vehicles are on the trailer with room in-between. This is because the front car's overhang is backed over the tongue. ![]() . Last edited by BRENT in 10-uh-C; 02-15-2012 at 06:58 PM. Reason: (uploaded a few more pix) |
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#7 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: South central Tenn
Posts: 375
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More than two if you crush them first...
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Don’t pick a fight with an old man. If he is too old to fight, he’ll just kill you. |
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#8 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Torrington, CT
Posts: 609
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16 foot trailer
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#9 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Salado, TX.
Posts: 733
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Just to drive the point home, even without bumper brackets and fenders you're dealing with approx 11' 4" for each. Do something like Brent's first car backed on (depending on deck layout at front), and the rear car right up against the end of the deck (not much safety margin) and you're still about 3' short of enough trailer.
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#10 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Spruce Pine, NC
Posts: 1,498
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my original smart-ass answer is "1.5" but I like the other answers above better......
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our next Model A has arrived.... ![]() |
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#11 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 416
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stack-em.....
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#12 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Camarillo, CA and Pine Grove, CA
Posts: 2,962
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Put one "A" on the trailer and have the other one tow it.
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1921 Runabout 1930 Tudor Early 1930 AA Speed costs money. How fast do you want to go? ![]() |
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#13 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: NNNNNNNNJJJJJJJJJJ
Posts: 7,647
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If you have the b-lls- get a 20' trailer and hang the first A front onto the tongue and you might just make it with the rear whls of the 2nd a just on the back of the trailer....
You have to be real careful on cornering.... I piggybacked a 31 chevy chassis under the front of a 30 A chassis on a 16' trailer. It worked, but was tight.... no bodies. |
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#14 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Eastern Tennessee
Posts: 11,971
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Since I am assuming you already have a 18' trailer, ...and I'm assuming you don't want to buy another trailer but you do want to transport these with some resemblance of safety.
![]() I just drew this up during lunch to show how I think I would add another 4-5 foot onto the tongue of your current trailer by building an adapter. All you would be out $$-wise is a stick of 6" channel iron, a trailer hitch ball, and another trailer hitch assembly. Either weld or clamp the tongue adapter onto the existing tongue at the rear. The trailer hitch ball on the adapter control the forward/rearward movement of the trailer. This drawing should give some food for thought, and hopefully you can engineer from there.... . |
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#15 | |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Direct Enclosed Transport Since 2006
Posts: 4,853
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![]() Quote:
![]() Altering the trailer frame voids the manufacturer rating. That means no insurance coverage. That means vehicle enforcement will have a field day when you get pulled over. If you don't have the proper equipment to safely transport two vehicles - rent or buy it. Jim |
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#16 | |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Eastern Tennessee
Posts: 11,971
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![]() Quote:
![]() As far as altering the frame, my proposal does not alter the frame because it can be totally safe just by bolting it on if that is what the trailer owner wants to do. And, while we're on this subject please explain to me what happens when the manufacturer of the trailer (such as the one below) is me? Are you implying if I alter my trailer the "warranty" is voided and my insurance company won't insure me?? ![]() ![]() |
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#17 |
Senior Member
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I drove a semi for years and agree with Brent. If the mods are done safely and legaly they have no problem. Look at all the homemade hack jobs some people use, they are dangerous and in ky your auto ins covers whatever you are hooked too. found this out when I bought a 34 ft pull along camper......I like the spread axle set up on your trailer Brent ..very stable.
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#18 | ||
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Direct Enclosed Transport Since 2006
Posts: 4,853
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![]() Quote:
good for you ..... You - as the builder - take responsibility .... Sketching a frame alteration to increase payload capacity to a manufactured trailer and passing it off as legitimate for someone else - thats' completely different ... ![]() You are not a trailer manufacturer. When a manufactured trailer with a VIN number leaves a factory - it has a GVWR based on the design of the trailer and the axle size and tire size. Alter that - have an accident - your insurance will not cover you ..... Alter that - get stopped by vehicle enforcement - get inspected and get ticketed .... ![]() Quote:
Been pulled over lately ... ? In New York and Pennsylvania - vehicle enforcement will ticket you for any overhang off the back of your trailer deck ..... ![]() The bottom line - if you don't own the equipment to do the job then go out and rent it, borrow it, buy it. Don't do a home alteration on a manufactured trailer. Jim |
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#19 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: NE Illinois
Posts: 499
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I would think to get two full fendered cars on the initial one is going to have the front axle lashed down in the tongue area. Somewhere near the ball. That is not a good idea. Probably have to remove the front wheels. That will give you maybe three more feet for the second car. I tow alot and if it was me going on an 800 mile loaded trip I would try to find the right trailer before embarking on the journey you are describing. If you are going to do this toward the end of the month when the local police departments are enforcing their traffic violation quotas on their uniformed personnell, expect to get pulled over for safety violation inspections at least twice more like three times in 800 miles. Hell forget about quotas...if I saw you in my neighborhood doing this I would probably alert the police with my cell phone before you killed somebody.
Don't put yourself at risk when towing and certainly don't put the people around you at risk by doing something that the trailer wasn't designed for. If you have an incident with this, the dream car you want to build will never happen because of all the law suits you will have to defend the rest of your life. |
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#20 |
Member
Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 76
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Thanks for everyones thoughts this a great place with good people to share many different ideas. 2 model A cars turned out to be a total of 4 model a cars and 2 AA trucks that We bought from one person so we bought a 42 foot car hauler to pull with my dads
F350 dually and with my 18' trailer and two trips the vehicle we be at there new home. Thanks alot Mike |
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