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#1 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2021
Location: Waynesboro Va.
Posts: 504
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I can do a lot of things on an A but I've never rebuilt an engine before. Forgive me for what may be a dumb question. Back several months ago I had the engine out of my car because it was knocking. When I opened it up I found several teeth missing/chewed up on the timing gear. I turned it around to TDC and the dots lined up on the cam and crank gears. I replaced the gear, checked bearing clearance and put it back in the car. Last week I tried to start it and finally figured out that I had to set the time to #3 cylinder to get it to run. It doesn't run great but it runs. I can tell that the engine was rebuilt before I bought it last year so, should it run with the cam 180 degrees out? Thanks,
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#2 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Southern Upstate New York
Posts: 1,209
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No.
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#3 |
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Join Date: Sep 2014
Posts: 822
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No.
You can't have the cam and crank gear lined up and have the cam off 180*. The locating pins for the cam gear are offset from the cam centerline, so the gear only goes on one way and can't be located 180* off. |
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#4 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2021
Posts: 243
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Did you reset the cam in the distributor? Essential RE time the engine.
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#5 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: 34.22 N 118.36 W
Posts: 1,181
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It depends on what is 180 out of time
Crank 180 out no Cam at 180 is one revolution on crank so no problem J
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As Carroll Smith wrote; All Failures are Human in Origin. |
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#6 |
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Join Date: Jan 2021
Location: Waynesboro Va.
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BTW, thanks for the info Hitman, didn't realize the cam gear would only go on 1 way. |
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#7 |
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Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Western North Carolina
Posts: 5,851
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The car will run fine with the cam 180 degrees out. But the timing will have to be set to #4. The firing order is 1-2-4-3. There is something weird with Avers' engine. It should not run with it timed on #3. With the cam 180 degrees out the new firing order would be 4-3-1-2.
The camshaft timing gear will only go on one way, as Hitman said. The only way to get the cam 180 degrees out is by aligning the timing gear on the crankshaft gear 180 degrees out. I suggest going back to first principles. Take all 4 plugs out. Turn the engine over until #1 is at the top. Then look at the valves in #4. They should just be cracked open because there is an overlap in the valve timing. Check this by rocking the engine back and forth a little to see that the exhaust valve is closing while the intake is opening. If this is not the case, then the gears are not aligned as they should be and that will have to be fixed. While the #1 piston is up, the points should just be opening with the ignition retarded. If not, there is some checking to do. Make sure the ignition timing will rotate the upper plate from one end of the distributor housing slot to the other. The points should be adjusted to 0.020 gap when fully open. If Avers has changed out the ignition components at the same time as changing out the timing gear then the component should be checked. The condensor and coil can be checked with an ohm meter.
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A is for apple, green as the sky. Step on the gas, for tomorrow I die. Forget the brakes, they really don't work. The clutch always sticks, and starts with a jerk. My car grows red hair, and flies through the air. Driving's a blast, a blast from the past. Last edited by nkaminar; 02-14-2025 at 09:30 AM. |
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#8 | |
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Join Date: Nov 2024
Location: College Station,Texas
Posts: 343
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in my engine building day, i always set it up so first crank of the starter and it was a V-ROOMM! every time! TDC, fuel in carb, good batt, and distr set and checked to produce the spark at plug with a lil twisty... by hand, key ON. if the engine did not immediately start and come to life for its break in run i considered the first start up a failure. keyword: immediate! no variances!!~ ![]() I did not have failures!! failures not allowed in my shop! ![]()
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#9 |
Member
Join Date: Jul 2014
Posts: 39
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I had a similar problem and after some time, I discovered that the distributor gear had loosened on its shaft and screwed up the timing. Changed it out and problem solved.
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#10 |
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Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Temecula, CA
Posts: 4,251
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With the marks (dots) on the cam and crank lined up together, everything is in time except the dist. At this point no piston will be at TDC. With the timing pin in, at the front cover, is the time to set the dist. at #1 firing. In any other condition the engine [U]might[U] run, but just barely. Good luck!
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#11 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2021
Location: Waynesboro Va.
Posts: 504
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Thanks for all the helpful information! Weather has been a little ugly around here this week so I haven't messed with it much. Hopefully this weekend I can play a bit and get it figured out.
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#12 |
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Join Date: Jun 2024
Posts: 17
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The answer is Yes, the engine will run fine, but....
The cam turns at 1/2 the speed of the crank, i.e. the cam turns 1/2 revolution for every 1 revolution of the crank - this is why the cam gears are different sizes. This is necessary for the 4 cycles - intake, compression ignition/work, and exhaust. So, every other revolution of the engine, the cam is 180 degrees off, from the gear marks. Perfectly normal. This is why you may need to rotate an engine up to 2 full revolutions, to find top dead center, on the compression stroke. If your cam is off 180 degrees, exactly, then rotate the engine 1 full revolution, and the marks will line up. Hal |
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#13 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Western North Carolina
Posts: 5,851
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Here is how I learned the 4 cycles of a 4-cycle engine (at a very young age):
Suck, squeeze, pop, phooey. The start of an engineering career.
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A is for apple, green as the sky. Step on the gas, for tomorrow I die. Forget the brakes, they really don't work. The clutch always sticks, and starts with a jerk. My car grows red hair, and flies through the air. Driving's a blast, a blast from the past. |
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#14 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2021
Location: Waynesboro Va.
Posts: 504
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#15 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2021
Location: Waynesboro Va.
Posts: 504
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I got out in the garage today and played with it a little. I realized that sometimes I hide my dumba**Ness well and other times I put it on full display like here. The cam is apparently set up 180 degrees off, which from what I'm reading here, isn't the end of the world. I was thinking that I was timing it on #3 cylinder in the distributor body but according to the timing order it is actually #4. If you look at the distributor body I have to use the post directly opposite of the #1 post. As long as I remember that it will be fine. One thing that messed with me a little was the nu-Rex plate and points. I wasn't sure if that changed anything but apparently it doesn't. I'm going to run it like this for now and if I decide to put a high compression head on it in the future I'll set the timing up properly. Thanks for everyone's suggestions and advice!
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#16 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Western North Carolina
Posts: 5,851
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Glad you got it working. How well?
Thanks for the update. How did the cam gear get put on 180 degrees out? The pins on the end of the cam that register the gear are not 180, but close, maybe 178 degrees. It is possible to force a fiber gear on 180 degrees out but the holes in the gear will be buggered up. The cam is probably close to 180 degrees out but not exactly. If the gear was forced on the pins 180 degrees out you will still be able to use the dimple in the gear for timing, but on #4 cylinder. And the points timed this way will probably be a few degrees off. But that should not matter if you use the advance lever properly. The valve timing will probably also be a few degrees off too, but that should not matter very much. I suggest you buy an aluminum gear and put that on when you get a chance.
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A is for apple, green as the sky. Step on the gas, for tomorrow I die. Forget the brakes, they really don't work. The clutch always sticks, and starts with a jerk. My car grows red hair, and flies through the air. Driving's a blast, a blast from the past. Last edited by nkaminar; 02-15-2025 at 05:52 PM. |
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#17 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2021
Location: Waynesboro Va.
Posts: 504
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It idled pretty decent but it didn't want to Rev up very fast. Seems like something is holding it back. I didn't run it long because it was 35 degrees and raining here so it got cold with the door open quick! There's a man in our local club that rebuilds A engines and I'm going to ask him to help me on it. I am expecting him to say we need to pull the timing cover and maybe the head and get it right. If I run into something else I'll pass it on!
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#18 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Western North Carolina
Posts: 5,851
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The ignition and valve timing is probably off enough to make it not run 100%. Replace the cam gear with an aluminum one.
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A is for apple, green as the sky. Step on the gas, for tomorrow I die. Forget the brakes, they really don't work. The clutch always sticks, and starts with a jerk. My car grows red hair, and flies through the air. Driving's a blast, a blast from the past. |
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#19 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2021
Location: Waynesboro Va.
Posts: 504
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I think in the long run that's going to be best. When I had the engine apart I could tell it was freshly rebuilt, no wear in the cylinders, bearings looked new. I was hoping I wouldn't have to do much. Oh well, it could be worse!
This has been an odd experience restoring this car. The running gear was totally gone through. When I looked at it I crawled under it and checked it out and it looked nice. Once I had the body off and checked out the running gear I found a lot of things had been switched side to side. Example, backing plates, brake arms were switched side to side, brake rods were turned end over end. Not sure what I'll find next! |
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