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#1 |
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Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Eastern Pa.
Posts: 543
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I'VE ADDED AN UPDATE ON PAGE 2.
I've owned this cab (pile of parts) for a long time. Actually, my daughter was just 10 months old when I got it. The cab's previous owner had torn it all apart with intentions of rebuilding it, but never did. Well, my daughter graduated from college last year and I figured it was time I finally started to figure out how this model A goes back together. I started with the sub rails. They were kind of rough. I welded the cracks and tig welded in new metal where needed. Here's the rear section of the driver's side I fixed.
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1929 Coupe 1930 Coupe 1935 Ford 5 window coupe Last edited by Vin-tin; 01-06-2017 at 03:10 PM. |
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#2 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Bucks County, PA
Posts: 11,454
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congradulations time fly's huh
nice job on the panel now getter done ![]() |
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#3 |
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Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: London England
Posts: 908
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Looks like you're doing a good job on it .
Don't feel bad about it being a pile of parts for a long time . I have a roadster that has been in pieces for longer than that !!! The pieces keep changing around as well ,when I find something better it goes in the pile !!! I met a guy at Hershey in 2000 whose son had taken his roadster apart and then was called up for the Korean War ,He had now finished the frame and running gear but still had the bodywork to finish some 40+ years later . Might be a new record !!! John Cochran |
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#4 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Mpls, MN
Posts: 27,582
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Very nice work on that part. Sure wish some of you guys were my neighbors.
There's a couple A's in our club that are still in pieces when they were taken apart in the 60's. |
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#5 | |
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Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Eastern Pa.
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Next up are the rear corner braces. They were still strong, but had a lot of rust and pits. I figured it would be easier and faster just to replace them. But after not being able to find any vender that carried them, I decided to just make them myself out of 14 gauge. I transferred the holes from the originals onto a 1/4" thick steel hammer-form I made. Using the holes to bolt the form onto the 14 gauge kept everything from moving while I shaped the braces.
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#6 |
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I copied the details of the original including the offset where the sub rails connect.
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#7 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Mpls, MN
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Nice work, no doubt you should move in next door.
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#8 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Walla Walla, Washington USA
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Vin-tin,
You should go into business...Great work. Pluck |
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#9 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Eastern Tennessee
Posts: 11,971
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Jus' curious, how did you put the D-nut offsets & holes in the flanges? I had to make a die and use a press. Did you do the same?
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#10 | |
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Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Eastern Pa.
Posts: 543
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I made the offset by using a hammer form I made. It fit tight into the channel and extended under the flanges. The hammer form had the off set in it, so all I did was use hand tools...hammers, dull chisels, bar stock, etc. and hammered the metal "down" into the offset, stretching it. It wasn't easy to stretch 16 gauge by hand. I just took my time and did it evenly a little at a time. I'm sure your method was much faster using a die and a press. Actually, I operate a 200 ton and 400 ton punch press where I work. I'm amazed at how far and fast metal can be pushed and stretched into shape using dies. Tom, being your neighbor sounds great to me. Seeing all the little gadgets you make and use, it would be great to have a neighbor as intelligent as you. Pluck, no business plans for me. I like being in the hobby because it's relaxing to me, and I love A's.
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#11 |
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Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Eastern Pa.
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Here's the wide rear cab support. The old one was pretty bad.
I know I could have bought a new one. I actually did buy one and seen how flimsy it was. Plus it wasn't shaped correctly at the ends and didn't have the curve in the rear. So I decided to try to make my own. I figured out how to make the whole cab support using just 2 pieces of 16 gauge. The hardest part was figuring out how to curve the rear. I should have had my butt joints a little tighter, but it all worked out in the end.
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#12 |
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Started fitting all the pieces together. I used small machine screws and nuts to hold everything. Looks like it all fits pretty nice.
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#13 |
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Well, this is how it sits right now.
After cross-measuring and making sure everything was squared and where it needed to be, I bolted the cowl and rear of the cab in place. I hung the doors to see how they lined up. I'm actually surprised at how well everything came together. I wasn't expecting that. So I replaced the small machine screws with rivets, doing only one at a time so nothing moved. The only thing that isn't riveted yet is the fire wall. I still have some repairing to do on it and the cowl sides. So after 20+ years of being a "pile of parts", I get to see it for the first time as a whole cab. I'm pretty excited, even though it has a long way to go yet. Will keep you guys posted as work progresses.
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#14 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Portland, Oregon
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Nice work. I really admire a craftsman who does nice work... Especially in an area where I am completely clueless.
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Ray Horton, Portland, OR As you go through life, keep your eye on the donut, not the hole. ![]() |
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#15 | |
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Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Eastern Pa.
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It's a learning experience and i'm thankful for the barn and the many people on here that share their knowledge. I would be totally lost with out you guys!
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#16 |
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Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: West Australia
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Coming along nicely. Keep up the good work. It will be worth all of the effort when completed.
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#17 |
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Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: pittsburgh pa
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lookin good !!! pretty solid cab ya got !
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#18 |
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Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Eastern Pa.
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Thanks Flop.
The cab has the same lower rot problems most A's have. Needs patch panels all the way around. Plus the rear window area was "ripped" by something sliding into that area real hard. (more on that later) The truck's cowl was badly rusted and basically butchered by the previous owner. I found a decent replacement, but realize now it's for a coupe. Coupe's windshield posts are a bit shorter than the truck ones, as you already know. I bent up some patches and am in the process of welding those in right now.
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#19 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Camino, CA.
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I wish I knew how to weld.
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#20 |
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Location: Warrnambool, Victoria, Australia
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