Restoring my headlights

[Art Newland]

I'm in the process of returning my headlights to stock configuration. I ordered some new radiator shell grommets from Brattons, they are quite a bit smaller in diameter than the ones coming out, and the center hole is considerably larger. The conduit is not held tight at all. Is this common? Should I look for grommets elsewhere?

[Art Newland]

One more question... I've read that some eliminate the push-together electrical connections and wire them direct. What's the consensus?

[CarlG]

Originally Posted by Art Newland

One more question... I've read that some eliminate the push-together electrical connections and wire them direct. What's the consensus?

Although not the way Henry did it, wire them direct. You will save your self a whole bunch of headaches in the long run. Be sure you place a connector inside the radiator shell rather than inside the bucket, or else you will be disassembling the whole shebang anytime the shell / radiator has to come off. And while you are at it, run a separate ground wire as well.

[1955cj5]

Hi Art,

I too have been playing with headlights..having had the radiator out about 5 times since I brought the truck home a year ago, I've tired of those darn wire nuts in the buckets and the need to completely disassemble them to pull the radiator.

The first two pics show the old socket refurbished using a birch ply insulator..works well so far,

But....

I bought a new lighting harness and original style connectors, along with the rubber insulators etc. from Bert's.

The quality seems pretty good.

I have not tried to install them yet...I've heard they can be trouble but I thought I give it a shot

I'll be curious to see what you come up with..

Randy

[Tom Wesenberg]

I like the original connectors. They work fine for me, and speed up headlamp removal.

[MAG]

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X2 on post #5
"I like the original connectors. They work fine for me, and speed up headlamp removal. "

[700rpm]

As usual, original parts work very well. The repro headlight socket parts do not work, period. They short out.

[james hitchcock]

Art . I got my radiator grommets at Lowes. They have all sizes. I found ones that work great for headlights and horn.

[Mitch//pa]

Brattons repo light harness with their repo headlight connectors work perfectly. I also assemble using the original way. For the many that had trouble using repo parts shorting try the things that are available now... Much improved fit and function over which was available many years ago.

[jeep44]

Just a hint: trying to put your headlights together using a set of those cheap, foreign-made headlight conduits is an exercise in frustration and cussing. The tabs on the ferrule that are supposed to twist and lock into the headlight bucket are just tiny dimples-they will just slip out, if they even catch hold. The US-Made stainless steel conduits (I got mine from Berts) have real tabs that will lock into the headlight bucket securely.

[RonC]

Put in brattons reflectors you will be glad you did if you use your head lights

[Art Newland]

Originally Posted by james hitchcock

Art . I got my radiator grommets at Lowes. They have all sizes. I found ones that work great for headlights and horn.

There is a Lowes close by, I'll check them out.
My old grommets are a little tattered, but still usable. I'll re-use them if I can't find something that fits better than the Brattons replacement. The pictures of grommets at other vendors look the same.

[Art Newland]

Originally Posted by 700rpm

As usual, original parts work very well. The repro headlight socket parts do not work, period. They short out.

The repro parts I have seem pretty darn good, everything looks as though it should work, but I can certainly see why they would be problematic. I repaired major appliances for over 40 years, worked with high current, high voltage connections all day every day. The stock connections appear to be something easy to install on the assembly line more than something designed to be trouble free long term. I checked the ground from the headlight bowl to the engine block and frame, and it's rock solid so I don't think I'll bother with a ground wire.

[Art Newland]

I looked all over for some pictures of the headlight lens installation but couldn't find anything in the books I have or on the internet including the Barn's search function. Scratched my head for a bit figuring out the lens retainer clips.
I assume this is correct?

[1955cj5]

Yes that looks correct..

[Art Newland]

Hey! It's starting to look the part! Not wired up yet.
I accidentally bought the reflector with the park light, my car has cowl lamps so I guess they wouldn't have the park lights in the headlights also? Oh well, maybe I'll hook them up anyway although there isn't wiring in the harness for them.

[700rpm]

Mitch and Art: I will try Bratton's new sockets. I hadn't heard that they had improved. Their 2016 catalog still says they are foreign made and of "fair" quality. This makes me skeptical. Thanks for the update.

[Art Newland]

The wiring harness has been cut off on my car. Undoubtedly when the "bug-eye" sealed beams were installed. The harness was just wadded up in the shell and insulated with the handyman's secret weapon... duct tape!
I did buy the proper wire ends (I hope) that goes in the black insulator block, they will need to be soldered on to the wire harness. Surprisingly, my harness looks very old, but it seems in remarkably good condition.

[Art Newland]

Originally Posted by 700rpm

Mitch and Art: I will try Bratton's new sockets. I hadn't heard that they had improved. Their 2016 catalog still says they are foreign made and of "fair" quality. This makes me skeptical. Thanks for the update.

I suppose that I will attempt to use the stock type connectors first and see how they go together. If they seem flakey at all, I'll do my own thing. I prefer the "one and done" method, making it bullet proof, but I do want to keep things as "Model A-ish" as I can.

[Art Newland]

Getting the connectors solders is a little tricky, but not too tough. Keep the wires length even so the stay lined up in the connector block.