The Ford Barn

d.j. moordigian · 02-25-2015, 12:40 PM

I under stand that in the past these valve guides fit loose in the
valve guide bores. Are these the same ones or are they improved?
Has anybody used the "new" ones and hows the fit?

I do like the fact that the spring has a seat...

Thanks, Dudley

http://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/4581

wensum · 02-25-2015, 02:26 PM

Hi Dudley
I purchased valve guides from Snyders and supplied them to my engine builder, when he found them a little loose, he was unhappy and so I purchased one piece friction fit valve guides (adjustable tappets) which he was happy with and said the contact would improve cooling.
I contacted Snyders to see if there was a problem and they assured me that they were supposed to be slightly loose.
Keith
They're sitting on a shelf now, un-used

Pete · 02-25-2015, 02:40 PM

It is impossible to get a concentric valve seat with the guide loose in the block.
And yes, I know the original engines came that way from the factory.

d.j. moordigian · 02-25-2015, 03:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wensum

I contacted Snyders to see if there was a problem and they assured me that they were supposed to be slightly loose.
Keith
They're sitting on a shelf now, un-used

That's nuts.....

Quote:

Originally Posted by Pete

It is impossible to get a concentric valve seat with the guide loose in the block.
And yes, I know the original engines came that way from the factory.

Ya,...I know! They have a neat looking product....too bad!

ursus · 02-25-2015, 03:29 PM

As Pete notes above the originals were a bit loose like that. I have a couple boxes of NOS Ford guides and was surrpised by it myself, as original Ford stuff is always such a close fit.

quickchange · 02-25-2015, 04:38 PM

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

Bought guides from C Yapp for straight stem valves , they were tight , real tight . used a press to fit . 1.735 valves ,

Ron/IA · 02-25-2015, 06:58 PM

I purchased the valve guides (w/springs, valves, & keepers) I installed in my rebuild from Birdhaven here in Iowa, and they were fit tight; very tight. The instructions that came with them stated they would.

However, the one thing I don't know is where Birdhaven buys them.

CarlG · 02-25-2015, 07:01 PM

The valve kit from Snyder's does not include the springs.

d.j. moordigian · 02-25-2015, 08:13 PM

I guess I should have read there "Press Release" a little closer,...this is the
last sentence in the last paragraph.....

" Valve guides look exactly like the original but are onepiece construction and can be installed by hand without any
special tools "

Thanks for the help....

Pete · 02-25-2015, 08:24 PM

A farmer fix is to knurl the OD and press them in with high temp Loctite.

When using stock replacement guides in modified engines the OD of the guide is copper plated and then finished to a .001 press fit. This has the added advantage of improving the heat transfer from the valve to the block.

BRENT in 10-uh-C · 02-26-2015, 06:49 AM

Dudley, I am not so sure concentricity was a concern back in Model-A era ....just like specific torque values on fasteners between then and now. The same with us using honing machines these days to ensure the cylinder was round & straight. I wouldn't dare not use my honing machine for fear of ridicule from peers (other professional Model-A rebuilders) however Ford dealers in the day did not have, -nor use a honing machine on engines they rebuilt.

FWIW, I am rebuilding an engine for a fellow 'Barner who's block had been modified for a different type of guide in a previous rebuild and the one-piece guides we are all using today were too loose as they e vidently had 'drilled' the block to .600. I found a similar one-piece guide that was .625 and debated machining them down to .602 but in the end, I just reamed the block to .623 and installed them. I know Pete is suggesting .001 fit but I went with .002. I chilled them overnight and pneumatically hammered them right in without an issue. Took longer to set up for the ream, and then machining the longer lifter to the correct length.

d.j. moordigian · 02-26-2015, 11:14 AM

Pete and Brent,

This should be a "no brainer",.....but it's not!
I've run sinarios in my head,..including the knurling....

I think Snyder's guides are great, from the fact that it has a spring seat!
If it doesn't press in the block, pushing the arbor in the guide could dislodge
the guide.

More things to think about,....I think it's time too get the dial bore out and
start checking the guide bores...

Thanks

02-25-2015, 12:40 PM	#1
d.j. moordigian Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Fresno, Ca. Posts: 3,636	Snyder's new valve guides... I under stand that in the past these valve guides fit loose in the valve guide bores. Are these the same ones or are they improved? Has anybody used the "new" ones and hows the fit? I do like the fact that the spring has a seat... Thanks, Dudley http://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/4581

02-25-2015, 02:26 PM	#2
wensum Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2011 Location: New Zealand Posts: 444	Re: Snyder's new valve guides... Hi Dudley I purchased valve guides from Snyders and supplied them to my engine builder, when he found them a little loose, he was unhappy and so I purchased one piece friction fit valve guides (adjustable tappets) which he was happy with and said the contact would improve cooling. I contacted Snyders to see if there was a problem and they assured me that they were supposed to be slightly loose. Keith They're sitting on a shelf now, un-used

02-25-2015, 02:40 PM	#3
Pete BANNED Join Date: May 2010 Location: Wa. Posts: 5,423	Re: Snyder's new valve guides... It is impossible to get a concentric valve seat with the guide loose in the block. And yes, I know the original engines came that way from the factory.

02-25-2015, 03:29 PM	#5
ursus Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Oregon Posts: 1,462	Re: Snyder's new valve guides... As Pete notes above the originals were a bit loose like that. I have a couple boxes of NOS Ford guides and was surrpised by it myself, as original Ford stuff is always such a close fit.

02-25-2015, 04:38 PM	#6
quickchange Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Nelson. New Zealand Posts: 2,026	Re: Snyder's new valve guides... Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) Bought guides from C Yapp for straight stem valves , they were tight , real tight . used a press to fit . 1.735 valves ,

02-25-2015, 06:58 PM	#7
Ron/IA Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Amana IA Posts: 527	Re: Snyder's new valve guides... I purchased the valve guides (w/springs, valves, & keepers) I installed in my rebuild from Birdhaven here in Iowa, and they were fit tight; very tight. The instructions that came with them stated they would. However, the one thing I don't know is where Birdhaven buys them. __________________ Ron/IA 1929 Fordor Steelback Hawk A Model A Ford Club http://hawkamodelaclub.org/

02-25-2015, 07:01 PM	#8
CarlG Senior Member Join Date: Nov 2010 Location: Anchorage, Alaska Posts: 9,192	Re: Snyder's new valve guides... The valve kit from Snyder's does not include the springs. __________________ Alaskan A's Antique Auto Mushers of Alaska Model A Ford Club of America Model A Restorers Club Antique Automobile Club of America Mullins Owner's Club

02-25-2015, 08:13 PM	#9
d.j. moordigian Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Fresno, Ca. Posts: 3,636	Re: Snyder's new valve guides... I guess I should have read there "Press Release" a little closer,...this is the last sentence in the last paragraph..... " Valve guides look exactly like the original but are onepiece construction and can be installed by hand without any special tools " Thanks for the help....

02-25-2015, 08:24 PM	#10
Pete BANNED Join Date: May 2010 Location: Wa. Posts: 5,423	Re: Snyder's new valve guides... A farmer fix is to knurl the OD and press them in with high temp Loctite. When using stock replacement guides in modified engines the OD of the guide is copper plated and then finished to a .001 press fit. This has the added advantage of improving the heat transfer from the valve to the block.

02-26-2015, 06:49 AM	#11
BRENT in 10-uh-C Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Eastern Tennessee Posts: 11,971	Re: Snyder's new valve guides... Dudley, I am not so sure concentricity was a concern back in Model-A era ....just like specific torque values on fasteners between then and now. The same with us using honing machines these days to ensure the cylinder was round & straight. I wouldn't dare not use my honing machine for fear of ridicule from peers (other professional Model-A rebuilders) however Ford dealers in the day did not have, -nor use a honing machine on engines they rebuilt. FWIW, I am rebuilding an engine for a fellow 'Barner who's block had been modified for a different type of guide in a previous rebuild and the one-piece guides we are all using today were too loose as they e vidently had 'drilled' the block to .600. I found a similar one-piece guide that was .625 and debated machining them down to .602 but in the end, I just reamed the block to .623 and installed them. I know Pete is suggesting .001 fit but I went with .002. I chilled them overnight and pneumatically hammered them right in without an issue. Took longer to set up for the ream, and then machining the longer lifter to the correct length. __________________ . BRENT in 10-uh-C . www.model-a-ford.com ...(...Finally Updated!! ) .

02-26-2015, 11:14 AM	#12
d.j. moordigian Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Fresno, Ca. Posts: 3,636	Re: Snyder's new valve guides... Pete and Brent, This should be a "no brainer",.....but it's not! I've run sinarios in my head,..including the knurling.... I think Snyder's guides are great, from the fact that it has a spring seat! If it doesn't press in the block, pushing the arbor in the guide could dislodge the guide. More things to think about,....I think it's time too get the dial bore out and start checking the guide bores... Thanks