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Snyder's new valve guides... I under stand that in the past these valve guides fit loose in the
valve guide bores. Are these the same ones or are they improved? Has anybody used the "new" ones and hows the fit? I do like the fact that the spring has a seat... Thanks, Dudley http://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/4581 |
Re: Snyder's new valve guides... Hi Dudley
I purchased valve guides from Snyders and supplied them to my engine builder, when he found them a little loose, he was unhappy and so I purchased one piece friction fit valve guides (adjustable tappets) which he was happy with and said the contact would improve cooling. I contacted Snyders to see if there was a problem and they assured me that they were supposed to be slightly loose. Keith They're sitting on a shelf now, un-used |
Re: Snyder's new valve guides... It is impossible to get a concentric valve seat with the guide loose in the block.
And yes, I know the original engines came that way from the factory. |
Re: Snyder's new valve guides... Quote:
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Re: Snyder's new valve guides... As Pete notes above the originals were a bit loose like that. I have a couple boxes of NOS Ford guides and was surrpised by it myself, as original Ford stuff is always such a close fit.
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Re: Snyder's new valve guides... Bought guides from C Yapp for straight stem valves , they were tight , real tight . used a press to fit . 1.735 valves ,
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Re: Snyder's new valve guides... I purchased the valve guides (w/springs, valves, & keepers) I installed in my rebuild from Birdhaven here in Iowa, and they were fit tight; very tight. The instructions that came with them stated they would.
However, the one thing I don't know is where Birdhaven buys them. |
Re: Snyder's new valve guides... The valve kit from Snyder's does not include the springs.
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Re: Snyder's new valve guides... I guess I should have read there "Press Release" a little closer,...this is the
last sentence in the last paragraph..... " Valve guides look exactly like the original but are onepiece construction and can be installed by hand without any special tools " Thanks for the help.... |
Re: Snyder's new valve guides... A farmer fix is to knurl the OD and press them in with high temp Loctite.
When using stock replacement guides in modified engines the OD of the guide is copper plated and then finished to a .001 press fit. This has the added advantage of improving the heat transfer from the valve to the block. |
Re: Snyder's new valve guides... Dudley, I am not so sure concentricity was a concern back in Model-A era ....just like specific torque values on fasteners between then and now. The same with us using honing machines these days to ensure the cylinder was round & straight. I wouldn't dare not use my honing machine for fear of ridicule from peers (other professional Model-A rebuilders) however Ford dealers in the day did not have, -nor use a honing machine on engines they rebuilt.
FWIW, I am rebuilding an engine for a fellow 'Barner who's block had been modified for a different type of guide in a previous rebuild and the one-piece guides we are all using today were too loose as they e vidently had 'drilled' the block to .600. I found a similar one-piece guide that was .625 and debated machining them down to .602 but in the end, I just reamed the block to .623 and installed them. I know Pete is suggesting .001 fit but I went with .002. I chilled them overnight and pneumatically hammered them right in without an issue. Took longer to set up for the ream, and then machining the longer lifter to the correct length. |
Re: Snyder's new valve guides... Pete and Brent,
This should be a "no brainer",.....but it's not! I've run sinarios in my head,..including the knurling.... I think Snyder's guides are great, from the fact that it has a spring seat! If it doesn't press in the block, pushing the arbor in the guide could dislodge the guide. More things to think about,....I think it's time too get the dial bore out and start checking the guide bores... Thanks |
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