Seeking advice for my 1928 Sport Coupe

[d.j. moordigian]

Things to note....

1. Correct front axle assembly and brake actuators.
2. Correct rear motor mount(earlier style) and battery box.
3. Also hood and radiator shell.
4. It could be the light,...but the RF fender is the 2nd style and the LF
is the 3rd style.....that could be possible?
5. Save the engine pans...there hard to come by!

[Rowdy]

The Business coupe was just another variation. In the 70's and 80's many were converted to Sport coupe's during restoration,as much of the bracketry is the same. That is why there is alot of repop landua bars out there. As far as desirability is concerned it really depends on how you view it. Sport coupe's have it as far as curb appeal due to styling. Most that want the business coupe want the 29's with the oval windows that were added at that time. I tend to want the 28 business coupe style as they were alittle plainer looking. As far as rarity in the 28-29 coupe body style, suprising to many it is the Standard coupe. As discussed in threads of the past Ford broke the dies for the top pieces of the Standard coupe. So the most common of the body styles is actually the Special coupe. Rod

[700rpm]

Originally Posted by Hardtail75

Thanks for they information 700rpm. I do not want to convert the trunk to a Rumble Seat if it never was intended to be one. Can't see anything on the firewall it's really faded but I will see if I can wipe it down or perhaps gain any visibility with a wire brush.

So what's the deal on these business coupes? Are they desirable cars, pretty common or what?

Thanks!

There were about 37,000 business coupes made in both 28 and 29. Because of the soft top and resultant rotting, leaking, and rusting, they are hard find in good condition. I was actually looking for a 28 for the same reason Rod mentioned, but in five years of searching I couldn't find a good one. Then my 29 showed up... 10 miles from my house! Couldn't pass it up.

The date, if it exists, is stamped in the upper part of the firewall on the DS. Sometimes they're upside down; sometimes they aren't there at all.

[Hardtail75]

Originally Posted by Rowdy

The Business coupe was just another variation. In the 70's and 80's many were converted to Sport coupe's during restoration,as much of the bracketry is the same. That is why there is alot of repop landua bars out there. As far as desirability is concerned it really depends on how you view it. Sport coupe's have it as far as curb appeal due to styling. Most that want the business coupe want the 29's with the oval windows that were added at that time. I tend to want the 28 business coupe style as they were alittle plainer looking. As far as rarity in the 28-29 coupe body style, suprising to many it is the Standard coupe. As discussed in threads of the past Ford broke the dies for the top pieces of the Standard coupe. So the most common of the body styles is actually the Special coupe. Rod

Originally Posted by 700RPM;

There were about 37,000 business coupes made in both 28 and 29. Because of the soft top and resultant rotting, leaking, and rusting, they are hard find in good condition. I was actually looking for a 28 for the same reason Rod mentioned, but in five years of searching I couldn't find a good one. Then my 29 showed up... 10 miles from my house! Couldn't pass it up.

The date, if it exists, is stamped in the upper part of the firewall on the DS. Sometimes they're upside down; sometimes they aren't there at all.

Thank you both for the history on this car. The knowledge you guys share is invaluable. I was able to take more a part this evening. It's safe to say that I was at peace dismantling this car, haha. Cool man.

Here are the pics. Everything has been stripped from the car minus to cab. (gonna need some advice here).



















Okay this scares me!!!













If this is the tag you guys are speaking of, can't read a thing!







Getting down to the bare bones..



Okay guys, the cab and firewall is unbolted from the frame. But here's the thing. It's attached to the frame rails. Since I am going to be blasting everything and cleaning it up, should I separate the body from the frame rails? Is it safe to cut off these rivets?



Should I put new rivets in when everything is said and done to restore to original specifications or do people normally bolt it down in situations like these?

Hoping to have the Oldsmobile out of my shop soon so I can start getting into the fun stuff on this car.

Ciao for now!

[Bob C]

When you say "frame rails" are you talking chassis or body subrails?
The tag on the fire wall is the patent plate, no useful info on it.

Bob

[Hardtail75]

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Originally Posted by Bob C

When you say "frame rails" are you talking chassis or body subrails?
The tag on the fire wall is the patent plate, no useful info on it.

Bob

Ah my mistake, yes I do mean the body subrails. Okay so I am looking in the wrong area for the cars build identification.

Quick edit here - when I blast these parts and prime with epoxy, should I do 3 coats of primer even for metal work?

[Bruskie]

You need to first brace the body from the from the cowl to the upper rear door opening & cross brace this area also so your sub rails don't get distorted & don't cut the rivets. take the body off of the frame & make up a stand to put it on with wheels so it can be rolled out to do your blasting. don't separate anything from the sub rails unless you have to replace them.

[Bob C]

I'm no expert but I don't think you need three coats, just enough to keep
the metal from rusting while you are working on the car.
Also your running boards are for a pickup.

Bob

[Steve Plucker]

Originally Posted by Hardtail75

Ah my mistake, yes I do mean the body subrails. Okay so I am looking in the wrong area for the cars build identification.

Quick edit here - when I blast these parts and prime with epoxy, should I do 3 coats of primer even for metal work?

Hardetail75...

Go to my website and go to Additional Studies.

Then go to Letters, Numbers and Codes and there you will find out just where to look for the assembly plant info.

Pluck

[Tudortomnz]

Looks like you have one early style '28 front 'guard [ fender] & a later one on the other side. Actually, this does turn up on '28's, especially Canadian ones. Look at the draw line where fender meets the chassis front rail.
Those metal running boards are commercial, light pickup truck. not car ones.
The small square alloy plate on the firewall is the Data Plate & contained .no info at all, just ''Made in Canada, Ford Ontario, Patents Pending.''
As I mentioned in an earlier post on your coupe, look for a letter stamp & numbers somewhere on the metal floor rails, near the driver side, in front of the seat. A wire brush should show it up ; probably something like F 123 if Canadian. [F was Ford Ontario, the main Canadian Plant in the Model A era.]
This will prove whether it originated in Canada or the .US, which used other plant letters & numbers

[Hardtail75]

Originally Posted by Bruskie

You need to first brace the body from the from the cowl to the upper rear door opening & cross brace this area also so your sub rails don't get distorted & don't cut the rivets. take the body off of the frame & make up a stand to put it on with wheels so it can be rolled out to do your blasting. don't separate anything from the sub rails unless you have to replace them.

Bruskie, thanks for the advice. I thought this would be ideal but was not sure if people dissected the whole thing for restoration. I'll try to brace it up today.

Originally Posted by Bob C

I'm no expert but I don't think you need three coats, just enough to keep
the metal from rusting while you are working on the car.
Also your running boards are for a pickup.

Bob

Thanks Bob, I think I will be able to find some on Kijiji that are original or I can get some from Snyders or another company.

Originally Posted by Steve Plucker

Hardetail75...

Go to my website and go to Additional Studies.

Then go to Letters, Numbers and Codes and there you will find out just where to look for the assembly plant info.

Pluck

Steven, thank you! There is so much information I can learn on there! Hats off to you for building such a wonderful resource.

Originally Posted by Tudortomnz

Looks like you have one early style '28 front 'guard [ fender] & a later one on the other side. Actually, this does turn up on '28's, especially Canadian ones. Look at the draw line where fender meets the chassis front rail.
Those metal running boards are commercial, light pickup truck. not car ones.
The small square alloy plate on the firewall is the Data Plate & contained .no info at all, just ''Made in Canada, Ford Ontario, Patents Pending.''
As I mentioned in an earlier post on your coupe, look for a letter stamp & numbers somewhere on the metal floor rails, near the driver side, in front of the seat. A wire brush should show it up ; probably something like F 123 if Canadian. [F was Ford Ontario, the main Canadian Plant in the Model A era.]
This will prove whether it originated in Canada or the .US, which used other plant letters & numbers

My mistake on looking for the build information - I lose focus at times. With regards to the front fenders, is that going to be a problem if I restore the ones I have? I may have some good fenders from my fathers Model A but they would be 30's style - he will no longer be using them since he is building a rod.

Thanks everyone.

[Rowdy]

The 1930 fenders will not fit your 1928. Rod

[d.j. moordigian]

Originally Posted by Rowdy

The 1930 fenders will not fit your 1928. Rod

Rod,..lol...I looked at the rears and thought they were 29's...didn't
even look at the front section!

The front fenders,....the LF is a 3rd style,..the RF is 1st style(ve-28)
toooo early for your car..

[Hardtail75]

Originally Posted by d.j. moordigian

Rod,..lol...I looked at the rears and thought they were 29's...didn't
even look at the front section!

The front fenders,....the LF is a 3rd style,..the RF is 1st style(ve-28)
toooo early for your car..

I think I can understand what you guys are saying now. If I fabricate the brackets to all be the same, would that be acceptable or is this frowned upon?

Thanks.

[700rpm]

Originally Posted by Hardtail75

I think I can understand what you guys are saying now. If I fabricate the brackets to all be the same, would that be acceptable or is this frowned upon?

Thanks.

Use correct original parts. If you try to hash the wrong pieces to fit you will fight the process every step of the way and end up with a rat rod. Take your time, go slowly, and do it right the first time. You'll be happier in the end.

[Hardtail75]

Got busy and project was on hold, here are some pics from before and now.
Blasted it so I could start working on it.



I thought I could repair the subrails since I want to improve my fab and welding skills so I started just that.


Sorry for the shitty pic quality here.



Not gonna lie to y'all I am sweatin it just a bit (maybe more than a bit) now that I have taken the car a part. Before the body was lined up on the subrails even if they were butchered. lol!





Question for you pros out there, should I be welded all the pits in the metal and then grinding them down? I was being advised to use fiberglass filler but I am not sure if that is the right way to do things? That's all I accomplished for a while had to stop the project for some time but back at it now.

Here's where it's at now.



This is the motor I need to swap over to my frame, told it was out of a '28 Tudor.










So I thought I could line the body up like this, boy was I wrong.




Had to get a new front leaf spring as the original was cracked. Did not know that I could order reversed eyes, so I did. Hoping this will give the car a leaner stance even if it is a small drop.

More pics incoming.

[Hardtail75]

So I got a bit of work done. Hoping to get this motor working shortly...






I did swap some tires around, bigger compressor tires on the rear for now and white walls on the front.

Was missing a mount so I have two new ones off a spare frame.

Got the wood blocks fitted.


New pieces put in, still more patches and shit to be put into that general area.


Had to change things up a bit.



Now I set it back on the frame so I can try to attempt lining this thing up. The doors aren't too bad after fixing the bent frame and a couple hinges.

Started cleaning a bit with the wire brush.

There's something under there!!



Here she is as it stands now, or sits whatever you wanna call it.




I really can't wait to get the body mounted with the doors working properly so I can start to throw some fenders on it!!

So I poured some brake fluid down the spark plugs and the motor turns over like a charm. Need to get a few things like new plugs and plug cables, oils, etc, new fan then I can try starting it.

I have to drill out some of the screws for the door latches, 2 are broken inside. Then I can get them installed. I separated the bottom sections of the hood.

More to come over the weekend.

[sportsterbob]

Your sandblasting equipment seemed to do a good job on the body. My local media blast guy won't do sheet metal with his dry system. Maybe the difference is the wet process keeps the heat down. What type media did you use on sheet metal?
Also, great progress on the subframe and patch panels. You're making good progress.

[JohnLaVoy]

There are a number of parts suppliers I have reviewed in the magazine over the years. You mention needing springs A-Spring is good for those 860-233-3557 they are located in West Hartford, CT. Bratton's and Snyders do a good job with most of the reproduction stuff. Berts in Denver has a lot of original stuff as does Arizona Model A in Phoenix area. Visit the mafca.com they have a lot of parts for sale and links to a lot of the vendor websites.

[700rpm]

Looking good so far!