Seeking advice for my 1928 Sport Coupe

[Hardtail75]

Originally Posted by sportsterbob

I have seen those units demonstrated online and the principle sounds ok. I'm talking about the same basic idea except you are going all the way commercial and what I was suggesting is the "home owner version". I don't really want to go into the business but have a higher psi gas engine powered washer and was considering buying the sand blasting attachment. It will be interesting to see how the process works for you. Looking forward to the videos and commentary.
Attachment 187922

I think what you are explaining should be fine but I do not know for certain. My equipment arrived today. I've been organizing the shop all day and got my Oldsmobiles' windshield sealed.

I have to go through the setup but I feel confident that I will have a few things blasted tomorrow to test it out. In my opinion I think I will blast the Ford as it stands, then dismantle and blast the inside, creases, etc.

Hopefully should have a lot of new pictures for you guys tomorrow!

[d.j. moordigian]

Originally Posted by Hardtail75

I think what you are explaining should be fine but I do not know for certain. My equipment arrived today. I've been organizing the shop all day and got my Oldsmobiles' windshield sealed.

I have to go through the setup but I feel confident that I will have a few things blasted tomorrow to test it out. In my opinion I think I will blast the Ford as it stands, then dismantle and blast the inside, creases, etc.

Hopefully should have a lot of new pictures for you guys tomorrow!

Find 3-4 sheets of 18 gauge to 20 gauge flat sheet metal to practice
on before the Old's or A sees the blaster. You don't want to kill anything
right of the get go...

[Hardtail75]

Originally Posted by d.j. moordigian

Find 3-4 sheets of 18 gauge to 20 gauge flat sheet metal to practice
on before the Old's or A sees the blaster. You don't want to kill anything
right of the get go...

I will test it out for sure! Rest assured this is a new commercial blaster specifically for automotive restoration, it will not warp body panels.

[Hardtail75]

Hi friends. I apologize for the double post. I hope it is not a problem. Here are some pictures today. I tested my blaster out on my 1935 5 window coupe. So far it is working nicely. It took some time to adjust everything and I am still working the kinks out. Need to make sure I convert everything from Canadian measurements to American so no problems occur.

This took about an hour to do so far as I am still learning the ins and outs of the machine. Did not get to finish the car as there is a sensor issue with my compressor, have a mechanic coming first thing in the morning. My goal is to blast the body for learning purposes. Then I will take the body off the frame and block it up so I can go underneath the car and blast the inside. I will then prime it. Just experimenting before I blast the Sport Coupe. I think I want to dismantle the car first so I can start with the frame and then do the body...appears to save time this way judging by how it is going on this car. I will see how I can hold the fenders so they don't blow everywhere. Currently blasting at about 120 PSI, (I will try 100 tomorrow).

I hope you all enjoy the pictures. Once I have everything working properly things should come along nicely.

BEFORE











AFTER









It is not rust on the fender that is all holes you will see. Tomorrow I have to go to Lowes to pick up a garden hose attachment. Then I'm good to go. I will hopefully have my Sport Coupe mostly dismantled if I decide not to blast it on the frame. I would prefer to have the frame dropped. I know this car is not part of this thread but it's my test before I start blasting the '28. Hope this is not a problem posting in here.

All the best,

Jon

[sportsterbob]

Looking good so far. It looks just like the advertised results. Sometimes it's hard to believe all you see on a advertisement video. So, it's good to have someone actually trying this out and documenting the results. We will all learn from your good efforts.

[Hardtail75]

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Originally Posted by sportsterbob

Looking good so far. It looks just like the advertised results. Sometimes it's hard to believe all you see on a advertisement video. So, it's good to have someone actually trying this out and documenting the results. We will all learn from your good efforts.

Bob thanks for the comments. By the way what kind of Sportster do you have? 75 XLCH here and 80. 41 Flathead motor as well.

Guys I have never worked on these Fords before. Can I essentially jack the body up off the frame like I have done with my classic cars from the 60s? Just trying to get a game plan going for how to separate the frame from the body as I want to get the frame blasted and primed right away.

Cheers.

[sportsterbob]

I have a 2001 1200 XL Custom and love it. I would agree with separating stuff before blasting especially to get the frame and sub-frame fully cleaned. I took my 29 frame to a commercial place in town fully stripped bare and glad I did as he got well inside all the rails and corners. Now I have a sub-frame and body parts to do and would like to get equipped to do this safely at home.

[Hardtail75]

Originally Posted by sportsterbob

I have a 2001 1200 XL Custom and love it. I would agree with separating stuff before blasting especially to get the frame and sub-frame fully cleaned. I took my 29 frame to a commercial place in town fully stripped bare and glad I did as he got well inside all the rails and corners. Now I have a sub-frame and body parts to do and would like to get equipped to do this safely at home.

Beauty! If I was close by I would love to give you a hand.

Do you gents have any recommendations for what to dismantle first? Going to get a head start on it tomorrow.

Thanks!

[d.j. moordigian]

Originally Posted by Steve Plucker

Now that is something that I have never noticed before on a 1928 body with the Brake Equalizer Operating Shaft Pin Caps on the Frame Center Cross Member...Those two notches on the Body Sub-frame Cross Member.

Just another way to ID a body if not sure.

OR...Are they on all sub frame cross members? HMMMMMMMMMMMMM.

Pluck

Yep,.....have them on my August 28 Roadster....

[Brother Hesekiel]

Wow! Just wow.
Being in the classic car business for decades, I've got some great connections. The best metal man I know that's still alive, yet retired, charges me $100 cash-in-hand per hour, which is also what I have to pay the independent Porsche mechanic here in town, and in both cases it's well worth it.

If I now look at that rusty hulk, I wonder what it will take to turn it into a good body again. Even soda blasted or acid dipped (about $1K either way), there will not only be holes but deep rust scars everywhere. that would raise concern in regard to corrosion re-occurring and substantial body filler/primer needed to make it straight. If it was me, I would either find another, better body, or buy a Brookville Roadster body and have a car that's arrow straight and is worth considerably more when all is said and done.

I know that some people, especially those who work on a desk all day, sometimes enjoy dirty work, but in the end it all has to make economic sense as well, or does it?

[Hardtail75]

Originally Posted by Brother Hesekiel

Wow! Just wow.
Being in the classic car business for decades, I've got some great connections. The best metal man I know that's still alive, yet retired, charges me $100 cash-in-hand per hour, which is also what I have to pay the independent Porsche mechanic here in town, and in both cases it's well worth it.

If I now look at that rusty hulk, I wonder what it will take to turn it into a good body again. Even soda blasted or acid dipped (about $1K either way), there will not only be holes but deep rust scars everywhere. that would raise concern in regard to corrosion re-occurring and substantial body filler/primer needed to make it straight. If it was me, I would either find another, better body, or buy a Brookville Roadster body and have a car that's arrow straight and is worth considerably more when all is said and done.

I know that some people, especially those who work on a desk all day, sometimes enjoy dirty work, but in the end it all has to make economic sense as well, or does it?

Thank you for the great insight Brother Hesekiel! I do understand what you are saying. I am planning to make a street rod out of the '35. It will be fenders-less and half the firewall will be recessed. It is a good project for me to learn to fabricate and do body work with. It won't be perfect but I have to get experience from somewhere.

My blaster worked well today. Again it's not soda but I do mix a rust inhibiter and then rinse after with the chemical. I primed for the first time today. It began to rain so luckily I was able to push the roller into the shop with the skid steer. I'm going to remove the body from the frame and cut the fenders, then this car will be put on hold since it was just for testing purposes.

I'm going to start dismantling the doors and hood from the '28. Hopefully I can remove the mounting bolts and raise it up with the hoist.

BTW black primer was recommended to me from the body shop supply store, they said it is better to see imperfections. I'm not sure if this is true or not.

Hope y'all enjoy the pics.

[sportsterbob]

Originally Posted by Hardtail75

Thank you for the great insight Brother Hesekiel! I do understand what you are saying. I am planning to make a street rod out of the '35. It will be fenders-less and half the firewall will be recessed. It is a good project for me to learn to fabricate and do body work with. It won't be perfect but I have to get experience from somewhere.

My blaster worked well today. Again it's not soda but I do mix a rust inhibiter and then rinse after with the chemical. I primed for the first time today. It began to rain so luckily I was able to push the roller into the shop with the skid steer. I'm going to remove the body from the frame and cut the fenders, then this car will be put on hold since it was just for testing purposes.

I'm going to start dismantling the doors and hood from the '28. Hopefully I can remove the mounting bolts and raise it up with the hoist.

BTW black primer was recommended to me from the body shop supply store, they said it is better to see imperfections. I'm not sure if this is true or not.

I think your results came out great especially for a first attempt on real steel. The overall experience will no doubt help when working on the "28. Making a street rod from the 35 is a great idea. There are many good uses for a body in that condition. Fortunately, total classic restoration is not the only option for someone to have fun with old vehicles. And as old original steel gets scarce even the ruff stuff is worn using by the individual builder.
Just take lots of pictures as you the dismantle that '28 and it will be worth gold someday as you put it all back together.

[Hardtail75]

Originally Posted by sportsterbob

I think your results came out great especially for a first attempt on real steel. The overall experience will no doubt help when working on the "28. Making a street rod from the 35 is a great idea. There are many good uses for a body in that condition. Fortunately, total classic restoration is not the only option for someone to have fun with old vehicles. And as old original steel gets scarce even the ruff stuff is worn using by the individual builder.
Just take lots of pictures as you the dismantle that '28 and it will be worth gold someday as you put it all back together.

Thanks Bob I was quite happy with how it has turned out. Tomorrow when I get back from the city I hope to cut the fenders off and remove the body from the frame to get it stored properly.

The '28 I think if I get the doors off I can blast them individually and prime them. Then work on dissecting the whole car. Start with the frame first then I can begin to mock up the motor in it. It's exciting to see things come under way. Now that I am comfortable using the blaster I can wait to start welding! haha I'm going to look into bead rollers.

Do you guys have anything good to say about Eastwood products?

Thanks, Jonny

[Tinbasher]

Welcome to the Ford Barn from another Canadian with a Sports Coupe. Looks like my car when I started. Get it Cleaned up and in Epoxy Primer and you'll be good to go. A couple of hard to find parts are the Belt Rail Moulding and the Centre Pillar Top bow mounting Brackets. Your cars pretty complete so that's good. For your information try to get any U.S. suppliers to send you the parts by U.S. Postal Service. If you use UPS they will charge your with a customs handling service which is usually about $75.00 per shipment or more. Not so great when you buying $25.00 worth of parts. I don't know where you are but there are some good suppliers here in Canada. Plus the Model A Club of Canada, which is based out of Toronto plus other chapters across the country. You'll find some interesting difference's between American and Canadian Cars. the first being the use of Robertson Screws in the Canadian cars. Plus the American belt moulding is a two piece metal moulding and the Canadian one is made from a Single piece of Aluminum that screws to the wood of the body opening.

Have Fun: The Old Tinbasher

[Hardtail75]

Tinbasher thank you for the shipping advice. I am not too far from you, half way between CFB Borden and Angus. I located a new frame for the '35. Going to take it off the frame today so I can get the Sport Coupe into the shop. Can't wait to start blasting it and painting it.

For those of you who are experienced with painting, I used about 1/4 gallon of paint to do the body of the '35. Is that too much? It was my first time painting anything so I do not know.

Thanks.

[Hardtail75]

Hi friends. Started dismantling the Ford today. Working to put a fresh coat of paint on my Oldsmobile this week and then try selling it on eBay for the first time. (that should be interesting!)

Here are some pictures of the Ford. Tomorrow I hope to have the body off the frame.















Yes I tested my blaster on the trunk and fender to show a friend who stopped by.





Saw this on the road the other day, some inspiration for me.



Hope you guys enjoy the pics. Need to hook up my new welder to 220. More pics to come tomorrow.

Cheers

[700rpm]

Early 28 business coupe. Still has the early front motor mount, and a trunk. Highly unlikely that a rumble seat was converted to a trunk; it usually went the other way around in the past. My 29 54A (see avatar) was converted to a rumble seat, but I plan to put it back to a trunk, if I can find a good rear lower panel.

I recommend you keep the trunk. It's an involved process to convert to a RS, and trunks are rarer and more practical.

Can you see a date on the DS firewall?

[Tinbasher]

Hi Hardtail: This brings back memories. Your car is similar to mine. Check on the left side of the firewall for the build date. My car is Oct 28. Yes it has the solid front engine mount. But the later style braking system. You won't find the serial # on the frame as the Canadian cars where not stamped. They just used the Engine serial #. Feel free to give me a call. 705-715-7628. Your only 1/2 hr away from me, as I'm near Stroud. I might have some parts you'll need. I have a good source of Epoxy primer in Barrie and for three good coats it should take about 1/2 gallon of primer. Tinbasher

[Hardtail75]

Originally Posted by 700rpm

Early 28 business coupe. Still has the early front motor mount, and a trunk. Highly unlikely that a rumble seat was converted to a trunk; it usually went the other way around in the past. My 29 54A (see avatar) was converted to a rumble seat, but I plan to put it back to a trunk, if I can find a good rear lower panel.

I recommend you keep the trunk. It's an involved process to convert to a RS, and trunks are rarer and more practical.

Can you see a date on the DS firewall?

Thanks for they information 700rpm. I do not want to convert the trunk to a Rumble Seat if it never was intended to be one. Can't see anything on the firewall it's really faded but I will see if I can wipe it down or perhaps gain any visibility with a wire brush.

So what's the deal on these business coupes? Are they desirable cars, pretty common or what?

Thanks!

[Rowdy]

I definately agree with Ray, 28 Business coupe. I suspected this from the earlier pic's and discriptions. Easy to confuse the two without accutate info and resources to research. Glad it is now correctly ID'd. Good Luck. Rod