backyard garage way of getting drive shaft angles correct

[bugsiegel]

I an mot sure how to attack this correctly. I have a t5 built and with the new bell housing the assembly is longer then the stock trans and bell. This changes angles from the output shaft to the drive shaft and may change the angle from the drive shaft to the diff.
I already know the drive shaft has to be shortened. And I understand that the U joints on each end of the drive shaft have to be equally opposed not to create stress on the U joints. Can and how do I measure this (with out professional tools)?
Drawings, photos are always a help too.
Or, if anyone is from North East NJ, maybe you might know of a shop that knows how to set these angles.

[ford38v8]

Not the right Forum for your questions. We're into mostly stock Fords here. Try the HAMB.

[Ken/Alabama]

I think you will be fine. I have installed three five speeds and never encountered a problem.

[Fibber Mcgee]

I often wondered about that. It seems a little difference would be okay,isn't the angle changing some with suspension travel?

[Mart]

Has the angle of the engine and trans relative to the ground changed? Has the angle of the axle pinion shaft relative to the ground changed?

If not then the alignment of the prop joints will be as good after as it was before. With the shorter driveshaft the UJ angle will be slightly greater but should still be still within the capability of the joints.

If in doubt, use a spirit level or other device to measure the angle of the engine and trans. Lets say its 2 deg down at the back. Then measure the angle of the pinion. Ideally it should be 2 deg up at the nose. In other words parallel.

That is what you want. With the stiff truck springs I dont think you want to wind in any preload like is sometimes recommended. (by preload I mean that in the above scenario the pinion would be set at zero or 1 degree up so it comes up to 2 degrees up when torque is applied.)

This constant referral to the hamb for anything not strictly stock is a little tiresome. He aint putting a camaro front clip on it, he's uprating the transmission. This is 2012, gas prices make overdrive transmissions a positive improvement now.

Mart.

[Bassman/NZ]

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

Well said Mart. No-one redirects questions about twin carbs, or finned heads, or boring and stroking to the Hamb. Why are those modifications considered acceptable, and a T5 is not? Over on the FordBarn Model A forum there is a large and long-running thread about installing an F150 trans in a Model A. Not one single post there has said go to the Hamb.

[PeteVS]

The flat surface of the U joint flange on the transmission yoke wants to be parallel to the corresponding surface of the flange on the rear. Or, you could say that the "crankshaft centerline" and the pinion centerline should be parallel. This can be checked with a simple "angle finder" which is a protractor with a weighted pointer inside.
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00939840000P
I guess that this should be done with the normal suspension height, but if your rear end doesn't rotate on its axle centerline as the suspension moves, it shouldn't matter. If you're mounting the engine / transmission on the same "crankshaft centerline" as was the original, you should be OK. If you've dropped or raised the rear of the trans, then you should rotate the rear on the spring mounts to get the flanges parallel again.

There's a driveshaft shop on 46 west bound in Clifton between AGL welding supply and the Parkway. He does all that kind of stuff on trucks and he shortened a driveshaft and torque tube for me. I was happy with the service.

[Mike51Merc]

First get the driveshaft length, phasing, and balancing correct.

Then if you need to play with the pinion angle, you can buy shims for the rear spring saddles.

[V8 Bob]

Originally Posted by bugsiegel

I an mot sure how to attack this correctly. I have a t5 built and with the new bell housing the assembly is longer then the stock trans and bell. This changes angles from the output shaft to the drive shaft and may change the angle from the drive shaft to the diff.
I already know the drive shaft has to be shortened. And I understand that the U joints on each end of the drive shaft have to be equally opposed not to create stress on the U joints. Can and how do I measure this (with out professional tools)?
Drawings, photos are always a help too.
Or, if anyone is from North East NJ, maybe you might know of a shop that knows how to set these angles.

The maximum working angle for a single cardan U-joint is 3 degrees, which equates to about 5500 maximum drive shaft RPM. So, with the vehicle at ride height, the engine/tranny angle should be within 1 degree of the pinion angle, along with working angles under 3 degrees. The actual engine angle really depends on the intake (carb angle), vehicle rake, personal preference, etc.

[blucar]

Before you attempt to set and/or check the drive-line angle you need to have the vehicle weight on the wheels so the ride height is established.
The pinion on the rear end should be 3-5 degrees up, the purpose being that under power, the torque brings the drive line into a relative straight line.
I find negative comments about a question, etc., that a person has posted to the online forums to be very counter productive.
Recently I was on a forum that is marque specific, Dodge/Plymouth.. A topic/thread was starting where-in a man posed a question regarding a comparison between a Mopar L head engine equipped vehicle and a Ford V8 flathead.
I chimed into the thread because I have a flathead Ford and a '39 Plym. I tried to be as objective as possible in comparing the two vehicles. Comparing the superior Chrysler suspension to the Ford antiquated Model T suspension. Of course I sang the praises of the Ford V8 engine in comparison to the underpowered Mopar 6.
One of the regular contributors to the forum jumped all over me, because I was writing about a Ford on a Mopar forum. I made a comment to his rant about him missing the intent of the thread, I made a comment that I thought he was a closed minded person.
My comment about him brought forth a rant that I was a "commie A-hole" that should be banned from the the Mopar forum.. The forum administrator locked the thread down to avoid any other comments....

[bugsiegel]

Mart,
Thank you for the defense. Other than a tach, an oil pressure gauge, tires and an engine job, as far as I can tell my truck is still mostly true to the condition of the original owner. including a very sloppy paint job over the cab, original wiring throughout, and terrible body work on the front fenders. Another way to say that is patina right?
The purpose for the t=5 upgrade is fuel costs and so I can better enjoy driving it every day on the long trips. Yesterday morning was 90 miles on the NJ Turnpike and the Brooklyn Queens Expressway.
Someone said to me just yesterday if I was going to paint it and make it pretty. I said nope. I am more of a mechanically sound guy with less emphasis on looks. Honestly if the truck had been altered in such a way that a modern radio had been cut into the dash I most probably wouldn't have bought it. Nothing against modern radios but then the next obvious question for me would be, what else was disrupted? We've all heard the saying let the guy before you spend the money. That saying scares me some.

[Richard in Florida]

Originally Posted by ford38v8

Not the right Forum for your questions. We're into mostly stock Fords here. Try the HAMB.

That's nonsense. There are as many Ford hot rods here as there are bone stock Fords. Where does it say this forum is just for stock Fords?

[4t8v8]

Google Driveshaft Angle. You will get come excellent advice in detail on how to set it up. Worked great for me.

[paul2748]

There is 2 shops I know of in NE NJ. Universal Joint Service, 166 Rte 17 South Rutherford I have a couple of shafts made there and had no problems with them.

The other is Drive Line Service, 622 Rte 46 W, Clifton.

[ford38v8]

Originally Posted by Richard in Florida

That's nonsense. There are as many Ford hot rods here as there are bone stock Fords. Where does it say this forum is just for stock Fords?

No, it's not nonsense, it's the way Ryan wants it. His Forum, his rules.

[flathead4rd]

Originally Posted by ford38v8

No, it's not nonsense, it's the way Ryan wants it. His Forum, his rules.

So then maybe we should have Ryan comment on this and not you.

[Mark Slight]

Reply to Allen, (ford38v8) you are correct. Ryans rules Ryans Forum.

Mark

[dude]

We are all motor heads,can't we all just HELP one another. I hope that's what the forum is all about.

[flatjack9]

Originally Posted by ford38v8

No, it's not nonsense, it's the way Ryan wants it. His Forum, his rules.

You are 100% wrong. Read what Ryan says. He understands there will be overlap and welcomes it. Read before you speak.

[Fordors]

I believe there is strength in numbers and the more individuals that see an inquiry only benefit all of us.

[Butch11443]

Use a protractor level to check the angles with the car at it's normal level.
Butch

[bart78]

Do what you want with your truck. If I knew the answer to your question I would try to answer it. Some comments kinda go back to the thread on the younger generation. There are some people that will run others off because things are not done to their likeing. He did not ask how it would look without fenders and chopped. What he is wanting to do can be changed back if it needs to be. Thing like this thread are things that interest me and are why I have come on here to look. I enjoy reading this stuff to learn more about these cars. I grew up on both sides with these cars and love both.

[bugsiegel]

I went to sears today and bought a magnetic protractor.
I first placed it on the hub of the differential and then to the drive shaft but as you can see it hits the welded end of the drive shaft. So i used a long piece of wood to do this and contact the shaft far enough forward that it did not contact the welded end of the drive shaft. Not sure if the second photo shows this as clear as I'm trying to explain it.
In theory if I cold mark the contact points on the wood and then transfer the marks on the other end ( trans to drive shaft) I could accurately compare angles. There are a few issues.
First is the trans output shaft is not as beefy as the hub going into the differential so that would change the angels. That could be corrected by building up the diameter with some electrical tape so that they measured the same. Second issue is there's no room to do any of this with the cross member in the way. I am going to have to cut out the cross member anyway should I take my measurements after the cut? If I measure on top of the drive shaft at the rear, then I have to do it on the bottom up front. There's no room to put the protractor on top at the front end anyway.
Or should I be measuring the angles of the output shaft and the input shaft with out the drive shaft installed?

Also, It looks to me that there are no rear engine mounts and the cross member bears the weight of the trans and half the engine, is that right?
What I was going to do was put the truck on all four tires on top of cinder block platforms so that I'm working on it while it's sitting on the suspension at normal stance. That would give me a little more room below to work. I see one break line I have to contend with as well.

[flatjack9]

You'd never catch me under a vehicle supported by cinder blocks!

[Ronnie]

Here is what must be adhered to to get a vibration free shaft.Establish that first and then confirm pinion yoke angle.If center lines are both parallel then the end angles will be the same.

[bugsiegel]

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

Is it safe to assume that these lines are parallel right now? I have no vibration now. If I measure the height of the engine as it is and secure it so it doesn't move while I remove the trans and then remount the new trans with my new Cornhusk bell housing, I should have the same parallel lines right?
then from there it's just a matter of measuring the length for the new drive shaft.
Is it that simple, have I been over thinking this? Of course I will recheck the lines as best I can while the drive shaft is out.
I know a guy who won't paint the ceiling of a bedroom while on a ladder, everyone is different. There are safe ways to do even dangerous things.

[4t8v8]

It is important to keep the center line on the trans output shaft as parallel as possible with the input shaft on the differential. I built my rear cross member (rear trans mount) a little low as it is easier to shim up than down. Remove the keeper on the "U" joint and use a socket that fits inside the yoke. This way you will get a correct reading with your angle finder.

[PeteVS]

Take the drive shaft out. Put the yoke into the transmission. Use your magnetic protractor on the vertical flange on the yoke and see what that angle is from dead vertical (or dead horizontal.) Then do the same level thing on the flange on the pinion. They should be the same angle (both flanges should be parallel to each other.) If the flanges are not parallel, you'll have to adjust the positioning of the rear (with shims or whatever?) to get them parallel. The angle of the driveshaft doesn't mean anything. It's just that the two flanges have to be parallel. If your engine / transmission centerline is dropping 3 degrees, your pinion centerline has to be "rising" 3 degrees.

[bugsiegel]

Someone sells a trans cross member kit to use with the t5 in the F1 after the factory cross member is cut to make space for the new trans. I don't remember who. Anyone know who sells it?
I don't have a welder.

[bugsiegel]

obviously I'm going to have to make this cross member.
I've been told that 1x2 tube will work.
anyone have a photo of one finished/installed?

[Mart]

I'd go heavier than 1x2.

Think of it as adding strength to the frame and supporting the trans as an afterthought, not just supporting the trans.

Mart.

[kp4150]

Originally Posted by PeteVS

Take the drive shaft out. Put the yoke into the transmission. Use your magnetic protractor on the vertical flange on the yoke and see what that angle is from dead vertical (or dead horizontal.) Then do the same level thing on the flange on the pinion. They should be the same angle (both flanges should be parallel to each other.) If the flanges are not parallel, you'll have to adjust the positioning of the rear (with shims or whatever?) to get them parallel. The angle of the driveshaft doesn't mean anything. It's just that the two flanges have to be parallel. If your engine / transmission centerline is dropping 3 degrees, your pinion centerline has to be "rising" 3 degrees.

For practical purposes, that's about as good of a "how to" summary as you can get -- well done! Follow that instruction, Bugsiegel, and you'll get it right.

[36 flathead]

I put a t5 behind my 1950 f1. original trans was 3 degrees down. I used a speedway universal cross member, it works but i do have more frame flex then before. I will make a new cross member this winter. when you take out your cross member you will lose your master cyl mount. this job could be tough without a welder

[bugsiegel]

So this week I will be pulling the three speed.
When the new pressure plate goes on what should those bolt be torqued to?
and when the bell housing goes on what should that be torqued to?
and finally how much torque for the trans to bell housing?

[thirt4]

WOW! I just read through all the posts on this thread (hope that's sayin' it right) and began thinking what a bunch of wasted time.
WELL! Let me be the first to say that I honestly did not know CRAP about the driveshaft angles until now.
THANK YOU ALL SO VERY MUCH! REALLY!
With the pictures, like the one from Ronnie, I really got my mind aworkin'. I had no idea that there was so much to a simple looking driveshaft. I am headed to Sears in the morning to get me one of those $10 angle detectors. When I take my little 221 out and finally go with my '53 Merc flattie, and T5, I will need to know all this stuff and hopefully be smart enough to measure it out correctly myself.
Again, Thank you and keep pounding this information into us who always "thought" we were so damned smart... but really aren't as smart as we think.
Guess that is why there are businesses that do mechanic work for when "we" screw something up really bad.
And quite frankly, I for one am really glad you all kept on posting to this topic and weren't run off. I do not think I am able to get on the HAMB site. I 'spose it is an ok site too but I like this one and you guys. Oh yeah, I am not one of those "young" guys but still appreciate the information.

[PeteVS]

Originally Posted by thirt4

...And quite frankly, I for one am really glad you all kept on posting to this topic and weren't run off. I do not think I am able to get on the HAMB site. I 'spose it is an ok site too but I like this one and you guys. Oh yeah, I am not one of those "young" guys but still appreciate the information.

If you found out how to post here, you can do it on the HAMB. Same deal with the user name, pass word, etc. (Same software!) BIG difference on the HAMB is that there's so much more posting! Kind of easy to get lost there unless you're on almost constantly.

[TJ]

Check with Chassis Engineering in Iowa for crossmembers for the F-!. They make one for the C-4 and Turbo 350, so it's possible that they have one for the T-5. They make a good strong crossmember for the transmission. www.chassisengineeringinc.com

[bugsiegel]

Pulled the ( Original Made By Henry Ford) bench seat today and removed the trans floor cover. I'll go into some of the basic detail because there are guys in here like me with minimal experience that will be able to use this thread to do their own conversion as well. So the truck is on blocks and tied off on both ends to a tree and the garage. Can't move an inch in either direction.
disconnected the drive shaft from the rear and then it simply slides backwards off the transmission. Then there are no rear engine mounts on this truck so the other half of the engine weight transfers back through the transmission and finally to the transmission cross member. So the engine has to be stabilized and even lifted a tad to release the load on the transmission. From there it's just loosening the bolts holding it to the cross member and the bolts holding the bell housing to the next ring which is like another half of a bell housing( not sure what you call it). Then you wiggle the transmission reward and it will slide out. I didn't drop it down I found it easier to push it up into the cab.
After that I removed the half bell housing ( name) the pressure plate and with that comes the clutch. Flywheel remains on the engine. Then the pilot bushing in the center of the flywheel has to be pulled ( had to borrow a tool for that) and in goes the new one for the 14 spline input pilot on the transmission. Then check fit the new bell housing and trim for the starter cover. In one of the photos you will see the new clutch sitting on top of the old clutch. The new one is too small so an eleven inch clutch is being shipped out right away. I think it took me about two and a half hours to get this far.
I have some questions for the experienced. First is when mating the aluminum bell housing to the trans do I have to use any kind of lubrication or antiseize between the two pieces?
next is the new pilot is 1.34 inches from the tip to the beginning of the splines. I have 1.89 inches from the outer surface of the pilot bushing before I hit the inner wall of the cavity in the crank. Do I need to trim the pilot?
And lastly I need a transmission mount. My understanding is the GM mounts are pretty standard?

[PeteVS]

One more thing that wasn't mentioned about open driveshafts, and you won't have any problem if you have one shortened or made up by a professional. That is, the fittings at both ends of the driveshaft MUST be PARALLEL to each other. Reason is, if a shaft is driven at a constant speed and is connected to a second shaft by a U joint at an angle, the second shaft will speed up and then slow down as it goes through each revolution. Having a third shaft driven by the second through another U joint, the second U joint will cause a similar slow down speed up similar to the first, BUT, if the joints are parallel and the angles are the same, the slow down speed up effects will cancel each other out! Make sense?

PS: It looks like Ford wanted to make it easy to get at the transmission and clutch on the F1. Better than a '32!

[bugsiegel]

While I'm waiting on another clutch I decided to move forward and dry fit everything. This way I can cut the cross member, fab a new one, and also send out my drive shaft to be shortened.
I installed the pressure plate with out a clutch and I believe I could have skipped the pressure plate all together since the half bell housing mounts directly to the block. Then I installed the half bell housing back on the block.
I installed the Cornhusker bell housing on the trans so tomorrow after I cut the cross member I will slip the trans into the pilot bushing and support the trans with a jack. Once I have the angles right I will measure for the cross member and for the drive shaft length. I made a simple jig to help mark the cut lines on the cross member.
I'll score the lines with a cut wheel on the grinder and then I may make the cuts with a sawzall or just use the grinder.

[PeteVS]

Ouch! Not too familiar with that particular crossmember, but that looks like an awful lot to be taken out of a beefy piece.

[bugsiegel]

PeteVS you are correct, this is a major cross member which caries the weight of the trans and the back half of the engine. But what comes out in strength must be put back.

[bugsiegel]

More progress today:
I made the cut and was concerned about shift in the rails after the section was removed. No shift. I can slide the piece right back in.
The trans is mock mounted so I can check angles and then take the measurement for the drive shaft. Spoke to the drive shaft people here and they want me to go to their shop tomorrow and they will give me a 27 spline output joint for me to return home with. When I'm at their shop they will show me exactly how to take the measurement with the piece they send me home with. That takes care of the drive shaft.
I took some quick measurements and I'm within half a degree already between the differential and the trans. The stock bolts to pull the bell housing to the front bell housing are too short so I can't release the scissor jack below the trans for a true reading. Tomorrow I'll get the bolts and set that correctly.
The last hurdle is fabricating a new cross member. I'll make a mock one out of wood and then have a real one made.

[PeteVS]

In the last picture, is that the crossmember just in line with the center of the blue glove? And, do you have a picture similar to the shot of the back end of the trans with the trans lowered to where it's gonna be? I'm thinking you should try to put some of what you cut out and bend a U shaped piece to weld back in to take the place of the top flange. Or, am I missing something here?

[bugsiegel]

Moving along rather quickly now.
Went to Driveline Services RT. 46 here in NJ and he sent me home with a trans yoke and showed me how to take the measurement. Dialed in the trans angle to the diff angle and measured 50 3/16 inches, He sets the end play. Turnaround time, one day which I wasn't expecting.....
Hopefully there will be no issues with the clutch plate and then it's just fabricating a trans mount.
It's too wet out there today but I still have to make sure the clutch linkage lines up the way it's supposed to with this kit.

[ford38v8]

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

I guess Ryan agrees with most guys here that this subject is not too far out for the barn, and at this point, I agree. Good information here, even for purists!

[bugsiegel]

Ford38v8 , I knew you were still watching this thread. I don't think you liked the part when I marked and then cut the cross member but not every scene in a movie is great. I'll save the cut out.
Things are moving along: made a mock up cross member for the trans out of wood to see what it would look like. The issue is my exhaust on the right side interferes with any kind of angle down from the frame. I have to drop down then come across. To keep it symmetrical, I do the same on the left. Basically straight down and straight across. I took some measurements after the wood mock up was mounted, and then took those measurement to the iron shop. I bought some stock and then mocked up the stock. I'm not too low. I don't think I'm much lower than the oil pan and definitely not lower than the front end cross bar. One decision to make is whether to have the rubber trans mount land directly on the 2x2 bar or shelf it off the front of the 2x2. If I shelf it, that will shift my new cross member back some which will help me clear the exhaust ( see photo). If I mount to the top I think I can just barely clear the exhaust but then I have to drill holes in the cross member so I can screw through it for the trans mount. I bought some thin stock to double the cross member where I might drill holes. I like the idea of the weight being delivered straight down and not on a shelf. Do you think too close to the exhaust or even the slightest contact is an issue? This is heavy stock.
While I was out buying the metal I got a call from the drive shaft guy. COME GET IT, IT'S READY. went straight there.

[bugsiegel]

Worked on this some today. Redesigning the cross member for a cleaner look.
I have the master cylinder that limits how close I can get to the actual mounting holes on the trans. Not a big issue. I'll have to build a shelf off the new cross member though.
I want the cross member to land inside the frame rails. The 2x2 stock will have a 6 inch piece t'd across where it will ride along the bottom lip of the frame rail. That piece will receive one bolt on each side of the 2x2. Then the whole assembly will be capped with a piece of upright flat stock which will allow another bolt through the side of the frame rail. three bolts on each side will secure the whole assembly to the frame rails. Then a shelf in front for the trans mount to land on. I like this design better than one I seen on another project posted on line.
Shortness of metal working tools has been the major delay here. I had a friend cut some pieces and then tack them together which allowed me to test fit the outer pieces. I borrowed a 12 inch metal cutting blade and cut the rest to fit. Tomorrow or maybe tonight I will tack weld everything together with the borrowed welder and then retest the fit.
Having fun...

[PeteVS]

I'm a little envious of you willing to work on your back on such a job. I'll crawl under for something minor, but if I were you, the cab would be off and I'd be bending over doing that job!

[Fordors]

I like the revised design, not only from an appearance aspect but it looks to be stronger that way too. Nice work.

[4t8v8]

You are doing some excellent work. Couple of things to think about. Be sure and put some spacers between the frame and your new cross member. If it is in too tight and you ever have to get it out to pull the trans. you will realize why. The left side of the old frame must be braced to handle the brake and clutch arms. I braced both sides back to the new cross member for safety. Remember that cross member also controlled frame flex. A stress crack in a frame when you are going down the highway can ruin your whole day.

[bugsiegel]

PeteVS, I can't imagine what the work involved to pull the cab. Up to now this has been a fairly straight forward job. The truck is high enough on blocks that getting under it with the creeper is ok.
4t8v8 Good point about bracing the old cross member to the new. I might have overlooked that.
Last night I finished tack welding the cross member. I brought the whole assembly to the welding shop this morning so they can put the full welds on it and make it strong.
While that was happening I removed the trans and fit the new clutch, it fits well. After that the pressure plate and forward bell housing. On the other side I installed the throw arm and throw bearing. This bell housing does not have a landing provision for the arm return spring. As per the instructions I had to rig something. I used a piece of flat metal band and doubled it up. One end is held down by one of the end plate screws and it's bent up for the spring to catch the other end. I'm not overly thrilled with the application and I'm open to any suggestions before I mount the trans tomorrow. The kit mentioned an eye bolt as one option. Are machined eye bolts readily available? Anybody else have to deal with this?

[4t8v8]

Yes. I use an eye bolt from a local hardware store. Be sure the end is closed so the spring can't slip out of it. Drilled a hole in the adapter to mount it. Sounds like you are coming along very well.

[4t8v8]

Oops. Forgot one thing. The Cornhusker shaft extends beyond the bell housing. There isn't a good way in the new bell housing to keep the fork centered. I put a lock collar on both protruding ends of the shaft to hold it centered before installing the trans. Don't ask me why. It might cause me to cry!

[bugsiegel]

I reworked the anchor for the throwout spring. I bought a threaded eye bolt and tapped the housing. Shortened the bolt and used a little blue lock tight to hold it in place.
As stated above, provisions for keeping the shaft supporting the throwout fork centered are not worked into this design. With this new eye bolt I had to shorten the spring to make sure it pulls the slider all the way back. If the slider doesn't come back all the way then there's a chance the throwout fork can slide slip but if it's kept in contact with the slider including when it's all the way back, then it will not be able to slide left/right.
The eye bolt is a better way to do it than what I did last night.
Photos for anyone doing this behind me.

Anyone know what is the threaded hollow in the slider for? The threads do not go all the way through.

Tomorrow's tranny installation day..........

[bugsiegel]

and here are the photos of the cross member. Just picked it up.

[bugsiegel]

What is this thing?

[Mart]

Originally Posted by bugsiegel

What is this thing?

You're kidding, right?

Just in case you're not kidding, that's your clutch release arm.

Not used for post 39 applications, but the release shaft needs the flattened end.

Mart.

[bugsiegel]

I wasn't kidding. I found it in my kit and though I might have missed something.
Call Cornhuskers and they accidently included it. I"ll send it back.
Test drove last night and this morning.
One issue. I have a ticking noise when my foot is not resting on the clutch pedal.
I have play at the top and the bottom of the clutch pedal stroke.
I don't believe the noise is coming from the inside of the trans because just the lightest pressure on the pedal ( not even pressure, just the weight of my foot) and it will go away.
Noise will not happen at idle only slightly above and and up and only when the clutch pedal is free, in gear or neutral.
sounds like a ticking engine.
Any thought????

[55 dude]

cool F-1! have you ever been over to the FTE site? Thats FORD TRUCK ENTHUSIASTS!

[bugsiegel]

FINISHED
The last item below was to strap the two halves of the old cross member together. One half still supports the master cylinder and so I don't want it to wiggle loose.
The ticking I was hearing has started to work it's way out. On today's test drive it was almost completely gone. It's shifting smoother as well. Getting it into second was a little stiff but it has started to loosen up.
Overdrive is nice. No more 3k down the highway.
One more thing I have to do is rework my old shifter to fit here. I'm not going to post a photo of my temporary shifter because I'm sure it will provoke some.

Thanks for all the help along the way. I couldn't have done this without your input. And thanks to the Barn for tolerating this much modification.

[Pete Fl/Wi]

Here is my t-5 mount in a 1951 f1. It's painted black but the mount uses a stock GM t-5 urethane mount on a fabricated center section. 2000 plus miles no problems. You can adjust pinion angle with wedges on the rear spring perches. Pete

[36 flathead]

that ticking sound is the pressure plate outer fingers hitting on inside of your trans adapter. I had to clearance the inside with a 4 inch sander.