Ignition problem no spark

[grumppyoldman]

On my 55 Fairlane with a 302 engine, I have a Mallory 29440 coil and I dont know what the distributor is. It has Ignitor !! pickup coil, the rotor sets on top of a plate that has the advance weights on it. The wires from the pickup coil go out the bottom of the distributor. Checking the coil with VOM thewire terminals with wires off has continuity, but has 0 ohms, it supposed to have a low ohms reading so I'm told. I'm using two different parts Mallory coil ans Ignitor !! pickup in distributor, will that cause problems, it's been running good for months. Al

[50fordcoupeman]

I had a similar problem on two different engines and it turned out to be the coils on both of them. Good luck!!

[grumppyoldman]

Thanks for the info. I have done some checking and my dist. is a Pertronics. I found info. that the Pertronics dist. will work with other type coils. I don't want to put the coil back on like it is, the screws in the firewall have nuts on the inside and I cant turn the screws and hold the nuts. Going to have to pull carpet and card board under dash to find the nuts, ain't going back like that. Al

[KULTULZ]

You have a PERTRONIX BILLET HEI DIST.

IMO, you should be using a PERTRONIX FLAMETHROWER II COIL. It is a canister type coil (oil filled) that looks like the OEM coil.

Take the MALLORY COIL and throw it as far as you can. MSD, ACCEL and MALLORY have been bought by HOLLEY (this is not the same HOLLEY CO of years ago) and all products are CHI-COM.

PERTRONIX is domestic and most of the product USA made, except some coils (and there is good reason for that).

[grumppyoldman]

Thanks for the info. wasn't sure about the Mallory coil with Pentronics dist. will replace with proper coil. Al

[grumppyoldman]

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

Do you need a ballast resistor with this coil? ( 3 ohm Flamethrower coil ) I've seen mention of a resistor in some cases. Al

[KULTULZ]

Originally Posted by grumppyoldman

Thanks for the info. wasn't sure about the Mallory coil with Pentronics dist. will replace with proper coil. Al

Now that was just IMO only. For some reason, people like eye candy more than something that works. Instead of mix-matching, one should stay with the same manufacturer's system(s).

[KULTULZ]

Originally Posted by grumppyoldman

Do you need a ballast resistor with this coil? ( 3 ohm Flamethrower coil ) I've seen mention of a resistor in some cases. Al

Do you see any ID on the housing that ID's the DIST as being a PERTRONIX FLAMETHROWER? Their cataloging is very confusing (and I have three levels of remedial reading in high school).

If yes, they recommend straight BAT VOLT to both module and coil. You want an oil filled FLAMETHROWER II coil unless the MODULE is IGNITOR III.

You are working with a 12V NEG conversion?

[grumppyoldman]

The modual inside the dist. has Ignitor !! on it. I have looked at the pentronix dist. and it is like the one in my car. Thanks for the diagram, that helps a lot. Al

[KULTULZ]

Originally Posted by grumppyoldman

The modual inside the dist. has Ignitor !! on it. I have looked at the pentronix dist. and it is like the one in my car. Thanks for the diagram, that helps a lot.

Al

OK. You want the FLAMETHROWER II OIL FILLED CANISTER COIL - 0.6ohm

Wire as above schematic for hot spark. 12V NEG system upgrade on the engine, correct?

[grumppyoldman]

I got the coil today, installed it and still no spark. I'm wondering now about the pickup moduel, I haven't checked it yet, but it doesn't show that its been hot which is one thing that happens when it goers bad. Another thing I wished I'd looked at after turning the engine over several times, if the rotor was in a different position. Just say'in!!! The car is located about 10 mi from my home. I'll have to go back tomorrow and take my wife so she can operate the key while I watch whats going on under the hood. Still trying. Al

[KULTULZ]

This is a 55 w/ later 302 SBF with a later 12V NEG GRD SYS, correct?

There are two diagnostic sequences below. One is for IGN 1 but describes how to power ICM straight from BAT for testing.

[grumppyoldman]

Yes that's the way it's wired. I ran a seperate wire from ignition switch to the coil pos. side to bypass other wires, still no spark. Also bypassedf amp. gauge still no spark. Checked dist. to make sure it was turning. Still no spark. Going to look at switch wiring to see if switch is bad, got it out of dash and had to take a brake, tired. Al

[KULTULZ]

Did you run a hot jumper from the BAT directly to the RED LEAD on the module? If she fires off that, then the problem is in the IGN SW/WIRING.

Check grounds in the DIST. We still don't know what make it is.

[grumppyoldman]

I did not do that, but checking other places I found that test and will try tomorrow. I saw another site where they said there was no way to check the modual in the dist. others said you could. Will run those too, I have been going in circles checking every thing I can think of. The car was really running good, then went to start it up and no spark. My 41 6 volt and points fired up no problems. I'm thinking the modual is bad. Keep looking. Al

[50fordcoupeman]

Have you checked the air gap (spacing) between the module and the pick ring (terminology?) under the rotor? It might have moved somehow.

[KULTULZ]

I saw another site where they said there was no way to check the modual in the dist. others said you could.

You have to be careful of what is said on sites. You ask a question and you will get fifty different contradicting replies and suggestions.

The info I posted was from PERTRONIX.

[Ford Freak]

Well , it looks as though the Mallory coil was not the problem . However, it is always best to use the proper Pertronix coil w/their module (or distributor), anyways .
As always , JMHO !

[grumppyoldman]

I ran the coil test today, ran neg. from batt. to dist. ran jumper from batt. pos. on red wire of coil. black lead on meter to black coil lead coil lead. Turned on ign. to run and got batt. volts. couldn't turn dist. shaft enough to get a voltage drop, so bumped ign. switch to turn dist. voltage was supposed to go to 0 it only dropped To 10.5 volts. Ordered a new Ignitor 2 from Summit. Let you guy's know how that works for me. Al

[grumppyoldman]

B T W Kultulz I looked at the dist. it is a Flamethrower with Ignitor 2 pickup coil. Al

[KULTULZ]

Regardless of coil type, the first thing always suggested is the coil. The complete system needs to be gone through in a sequence. Just throwing parts at something gets expensive.

[grumppyoldman]

Got more testing done today, put #1 cyl. TDC checked rotor position, it points to #1 dist. wire. So I don't have stripped dist. gear or timing gear damage. Wanted to get that out of the back of my pea size brain. Found info. that said if the ign. switch is left on for over 15 sec. it could damage the module. Also finally checked the air gap, its way over .030 and couldn't adjust it closer, hope the new one has instructions on that. Al

[KULTULZ]

Originally Posted by grumppyoldman

Found info. that said if the ign. switch is left on for over 15 sec. it could damage the module.

That is the IGN 1. The IGN II does not have (is supposed not to have) that flaw.

Were you able to get the car back to the house? PERTRONIX has a TECH HOTLINE. Maybe they know something I don't (that wouldn't be difficult). There has to be a diagnostic sequence for their DIST.

[grumppyoldman]

Nope the car is still in storage, the gap on the module was so wide I could get 2 pieces of .030 plastic card between the shaft and module. Nothing is movable on the module plate so hope that's fine. I couldn't find any info. on replacing the Ignitor 2 module that mentioned the gap setting. I found the Help line no. and will call them to check it out. Thank you for helping me with problem, I can't bend over the hood much longer, old back don't like that. I'll keep in touch. Al

[50fordcoupeman]

Originally Posted by grumppyoldman

Nope the car is still in storage, the gap on the module was so wide I could get 2 pieces of .030 plastic card between the shaft and module. Nothing is movable on the module plate so hope that's fine. I couldn't find any info. on replacing the Ignitor 2 module that mentioned the gap setting. I found the Help line no. and will call them to check it out. Thank you for helping me with problem, I can't bend over the hood much longer, old back don't like that. I'll keep in touch. Al

My instructions were very emphatic on the air gap being set correctly. Mine is 302 with Pertronix. Runs strong.

[KULTULZ]

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

Originally Posted by 50fordcoupeman

My instructions were very emphatic on the air gap being set correctly. Mine is 302 with Pertronix. Runs strong.

Now do you have an OEM DIST w/ IGN II module or do you have the complete FLAMETHROWER DIST ASSY?

[50fordcoupeman]

Originally Posted by KULTULZ

Now do you have an OEM DIST w/ IGN II module or do you have the complete FLAMETHROWER DIST ASSY?

Oem dist and a NAPA coil. At the time of installation I was too ignorant to do the complete assy but the NAPA guy whom I have known for years told me this set up should work. He said if it didn't he would refund my money and help me get the Flamethrower parts.

[grumppyoldman]

50 Ford mine is all Pertronix, Flamethrower dist. with Ignitor 2 module. There is no adjustment inside the dist. to move the moduel closer to the trigger shaft. I'm hopeing that's the way it's supposed to be. Been running the car with no problems for 2 yrs. or more with same setup, don't know yet what happened yet. Al

[50fordcoupeman]

Originally Posted by grumppyoldman

50 Ford mine is all Pertronix, Flamethrower dist. with Ignitor 2 module. There is no adjustment inside the dist. to move the moduel closer to the trigger shaft. I'm hopeing that's the way it's supposed to be. Been running the car with no problems for 2 yrs. or more with same setup, don't know yet what happened yet. Al

What holds the module to the plate? Sounds like it is too far from the trigger shaft according to what you said. Mine is adjustable in much the same manner that you would adjust a set of points only using the plastic gauge to measure the gap. I think we are missing something here

[grumppyoldman]

I got my new module yesterday, called pertronix and talked to a service tech. He told me to run a ground wire from battery neg. to dist. housing with 12 volts on pos. side of coil and it should fire up. No spark I left the old module in for that test to see if it was good before changing it out. Had to quit because of weather, will try again tomorrow if storm has passed. 50ford the module on my Ignitor 2 has no slots in the mounting screw holes for adjusting the gap. The module mounts on a C shaped plate that mounts to a round plate in top of the dist. with no adjustment in either for setting gap. Al

[50fordcoupeman]

Originally Posted by grumppyoldman

I got my new module yesterday, called pertronix and talked to a service tech. He told me to run a ground wire from battery neg. to dist. housing with 12 volts on pos. side of coil and it should fire up. No spark I left the old module in for that test to see if it was good before changing it out. Had to quit because of weather, will try again tomorrow if storm has passed. 50ford the module on my Ignitor 2 has no slots in the mounting screw holes for adjusting the gap. The module mounts on a C shaped plate that mounts to a round plate in top of the dist. with no adjustment in either for setting gap. Al

Maybe the adjustment is factory set? I don't know. My dist is OEM and maybe that is the difference. Would have to talk to their tech folks to find out. This whole thing is very odd so what are we missing??

[grumppyoldman]

I got the module installed, that must have been the problem,because the car is now running. I set the engine on T D C, removed the dist. and installed the module. I talked to a tech support guy about the module, he said it was the correct one just had up grade and the one I had replaced my older one, and the air gap was not adjustable.I found whoever did the install had changed the wire color going to the coil. It was a black wire coming out of the dist. ,but was spliced to a green wire going to the coil. I had to strip the wire covering off to find which wire went to coil on negative side. Al

[grumppyoldman]

Well guess what, it no longer has spark. I talked to a service tech today and he gave me a way to test the new module. I had already called it a day at storage, so I tested the old one I had removed. It failed the test, so I will test the new one tomorrow, I think it may fail the test also. Al

[grumppyoldman]

The new module could not be tested like I was informed. That test was for the ignitor. That was for the Ignitor not for the Itgnitor 11, so am having a new one sent, maybe have some good results with it. Let you know. Al

[grumppyoldman]

Well I got the new pickup module installed today, works fine. Found a mess in the wiring harness, bringing it home tomorrow and going to fix that mess. I ordered a wiring diagram for a 55 Ford, should be here tomorrow. Need to find several different colored wires. The only thing that's not working now is the backup lights. Finally figured out the 2 relay's, one powers the push fan and the other one powers the 2 pull fans. The main feed wire was 3 different colors, had me scratching my head until I removed the cover over the wires. Al

[bobss396]

I'm not big on Pertronix products myself. I almost always use a factory GM or Ford HEI distributor if I have the firewall space. I used them in stock cars with 8mm wires and they always pulled strong up to 7000 RPMs.

[grumppyoldman]

the Flamethrower dist. was in the car when I bought it. It ran good until the module went out, I think when I get the wiring fixed it will do ok. The coil had too many wires connected to the pos. terminal which may have lowered the voltage requirements for the unit, it has to have 12 volts to work properly.Al