Muffler/exhaust fixation to chassis

[3.6rs]

Is it correct that the rear exhaust fixation clamp is directly bolt on to the bottom of the chassis, without using a silent bloc ?

[Mike V. Florida]

Yes

[3.6rs]

And wouldn't it be better to put the clamp on some sort of silent bloc ?

[RonC]

Why do you want to change it? is yours making noise?

[3.6rs]

No noise but I recently replaced my broken exhaust manifold by a new one and it seems that something does not fit well. ( I think that is why I had the crack at cyl nr; 4). So I guess with a silentbloc on the rear pipe that it would be better.

[Manager]

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I found the same thing with my car. Couldn't get the exhaust to seal on the manifold, it just sat wrong, so I did exactly what you are talking about to get the flare to sit straight on the manifold.I say go for it.

[3.6rs]

Originally Posted by Manager

I found the same thing with my car. Couldn't get the exhaust to seal on the manifold, it just sat wrong, so I did exactly what you are talking about to get the flare to sit straight on the manifold.I say go for it.

I have a bunch of used silent blocs from newer cars that I can use for that, but do you have a picture of how you solved it ?

[Manager]

I acctually didn't use a silent block, Just a 1" long piece of about 3/4 dia tube and a longer bolt to raise it up. But your idea of a silent block is better and I will probably copy it. The suppliers also sell a piece of exhaust pipe with a taper that fits up in the manifold and down in the pipe to try to fix the problem but I havn't tried that.From the Early Ford Store Site:

1928-31 Exhaust Manifold Sleeve
[A-5234]
$5.85

Click to enlarge Fits all 1928-1934 4 Cylinder engines. This metal sleeve is not an original Ford part, but fits inside of the exhaust manifold and the exhaust pipe fits over it to help prevent exhaust leaks. Sold separately is the copper seal that should be used with this sleeve, it uses part number "A-5251-ES".
This product was added to our catalog on Sunday 05 October, 2008.

[3.6rs]

Ok. Thanks

[aermotor]

I replaced my muffler using a floor jack to get everything lined up and loosely snugged up the manifold clamp. Then I went back and reformed the tail pipe clamp to fit the pipe with a generous slip fit all around the clamp, it looks like it is supposed to be. I believe the clamp was original - just man handled in the past. I then went back and tightened the manifold clamp and checked that I still had the slip fit on the tail pipe. No silent rear hanger. I also think most exhaust to manifold mating problems may be caused by a sagging manifold at the #4 cylinder, I did have to replace my sagging manifod. But, which came first - the chicken or the egg? IMO the tube insert restricts the exhaust discharge.

John

[mike657894]

I think its common for the repro mufflers to be off a few degrees. I put mine in a vise and used the long end to leverage a bend of about 5 degrees. I think my pipe is 70s repro. I also recommend using a sleeve.

[Bob Bidonde]

This is way too much info regarding the exhaust system, but it is worthwhile knowing.

The muffler assembly clamp on the right frame rail has an important characteristic. Although it supports the tail pipe, it should allow the pipe to slide and rotate in the clamp. By allowing movement of the pipe, the clamp relieves bending stresses at the exhaust manifold. The movement of the tail pipe is forced by flexing of the frame, movement of the engine and thermal expansion.

Another important feature of the exhaust system are the four cupped washers in the attachments of the exhaust manifold to the engine. Those washers are made of leaf spring material, so the cupped washers are actually springs that accommodate thermal expansion of the cylinder block, the mounting studs and exhaust manifold. The concave surface of the washers should face the engine. To act as springs, the washers should not be flattened from over tightening the nuts.

Although there is Ford literature indicating that the gland rings in the exhaust ports were discontinued, this was not the case and the use of the gland rings continued into Model B engine production. The steel gland rings are supposed to prevent burnout of the exhaust manifold gasket. However, the gap in the gland rings needs to be at 3 or 9 o'clock to give the maximum gasket life. Also, be sure that the gland ring gap at room temperature is 0.06".

[aermotor]

Just curious, if the #4 position of the manifold was, say - 3/16" low can anyone calculate how low the tail pipe would be at the hanger with a correctly bent new muffler/tail pipe? Did the hanger cause the manifol drop or the manifod drop cause the hanger/clamp misalingment? Not that it realy matters.

John

[BILL WILLIAMSON]

SOMETIMES the manifold gets RED hot & the weight of the exhaust causes the back end to DROOP. I've "thought" about a flat iron strap, welded to the headpipe & extending to a manifold mounting stud, to support it.
Bill W.

[C26Pinelake]

its your car, put a silent block on if you wish. No big deal. Wayne

[AL in NY]

I too had to bend the exhaust pipe in front of the muffler to achieve a proper fit to the exhaust manifold. Also, be sure the manifold clamp is assembled in the proper orientation to achieve tight fit. I also used a tailpipe hanger behind the muffler to isolate any exhaust vibration from the frame. The rubber hanger also allows for exhaustpipe/muffler expansion without stressing the exhaust manifold. Here is a photo of my homemade hanger. The hanger also holds the tailpipe at the correct stock height.

[3.6rs]

Originally Posted by AL in NY

I too had to bend the exhaust pipe in front of the muffler to achieve a proper fit to the exhaust manifold. Also, be sure the manifold clamp is assembled in the proper orientation to achieve tight fit. I also used a tailpipe hanger behind the muffler to isolate any exhaust vibration from the frame. The rubber hanger also allows for exhaustpipe/muffler expansion without stressing the exhaust manifold. Here is a photo of my homemade hanger. The hanger also holds the tailpipe at the correct stock height.

That's what I have in mind to do.

[BILL WILLIAMSON]

Any power train/exhaust stuff that can be isolated by RUBBER, makes the car SO much quieter ! That's why Model A's sound like they're TEARING up the motor, past 45 MPH!
Minerva just went HMMMMMN, at all speeds, even up to 70 MPH.
BUT, I'm TIRED, I'll just leave Vermin STOCK.
Bill Quiet

[Mitch//pa]

Originally Posted by BILL WILLIAMSON

SOMETIMES the manifold gets RED hot & the weight of the exhaust causes the back end to DROOP. I've "thought" about a flat iron strap, welded to the headpipe & extending to a manifold mounting stud, to support it.
Bill W.

I thought it was a KUZHAUST thats what you taught me

[Synchro909]

When I got my Phaeton, the front of the muffler where the engine pipe enters was dented. It finally cracked there so I welded it up. It cracked again so I rewelded and fitted a gusset. No more problems for a long while. To help the manifold, I mounted a spring between gusset at the front of the muffler and the engine mount to take some of the weight off the manifold. It seems that the bend that was in the muffler when I got the car had started a crack in the perforated pipe that runs the whole length of the muffler inside. Vibration over many thousands of miles resulted in the front 12" or so of the pipe breaking off and falling to the bottom of the muffler causing one helluva rattle. It didn't take long to find the cause. To fix it, I made a Tee shaped cut in the front of the muffler, extracted the broken piece of pipe and welded it shut again. It is still that way. The car still sounds like a Model A but with a little "attitude". I smile to myself every time someone says "That car sounds good".
I suggest to anybody concerned about their manifold sagging to put a spring around the engine pipe and secure it to the engine mount to take the weight.