Front cross member repair

[DWMOONEY]

Recently started restoration on my 31 model A Coupe. After disassembly I found the front frame cross member cracked out badly where the front spring attaches. Can't find this part in the system for sale except the one that lowers the front end (and not exactly the same). Anyone have any advise on a weld repair for that area? I will be gas welding it. Thanks

[Mikeinnj]

"I found the front frame cross member cracked out badly"......
It depends how badly.
A photo would help get some accurate answers.
It is not unusual to find cracks in the area near the spring center bolt. They can often be fixed by drilling a small hole at each end of the crack and then grind a "V" along the length of the crack with a grinding wheel and then fill the crack with weld and grind the weld flush.

[Fullraceflathead]

If it was mine I would pay to have it Tig Welded.
Tig or Mig would be the strongest. That is a highly stressed area.
Mine has all kinds of welds and gussets welded on it from a previous owner many years ago. It's ugly but fixed. Mine looks like stick welding was done to it.

[JohnB15632]

I had the exact problem happen to my front cross member. I was able to locate a young gentleman who had a portable welder and came by my house.

He drilled the crack at the ends, ground out the metal, and welded the area back up. He was a professional by all aspects.

It is now fixed, stronger than the original. As I recall, it was less than $100.00 to get the repair. He ground the holes as original. I could not be happier!!!!

[1Tudoor]

Agree w/ full race--preferably TIG weld
Think of it as the main spar on your private plane , duplicate the original strength plus a safety factor of added mat'l if needed .

[Fred K-OR]

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If welding is not the answer for you, try calling Bert's in Denver. They carry a lot of used parts and you could replace it. Or maybe advertise on this site and someone may have a good used one. Just be sure you get the correct cross member because they are different between the 28/29 and the 30/31's.

I have replaced both of my front cross members on both of my 29's. It can be done with some effort but it is not that bad.

[DWMOONEY]

As you can see by the pictures mine was really bad. There was a big piece missing so I ground out the area to weld a new piece in. I may shop around for a used one.

[Bob C]

Be sure to get one for a 30-31.

Bob

[Pete]

Originally Posted by DWMOONEY

As you can see by the pictures mine was really bad. There was a big piece missing so I ground out the area to weld a new piece in. I may shop around for a used one.

Don't forget, if you replace the cross member as per original, you wil need rivets and bucking bars to install them. Not easy to find usually.
If you weld the cross member in, it will be much stronger but won't look original.
Fixing your existing part would be the easiest and cheapest.
Gas welding would be the next best to TIG welding.

[Fred K-OR]

Do you want your restore to be all original as from the factory or do you just want a driver the runs good? If a driver, you can bolt the replacement cross member in. I have done both my 29's that way and have had no problem. Just be sure you use a good bolt setup. But like mentioned above, you could also weld yours but would have to have someone do it for you because your gal welder I don't think would do it.

And like Bob mentioned above, if you replace it, be sure it is a 30-31.

[DWMOONEY]

Thanks to you all for the good advise. Not planning on a show car just a good looker to drive around for fun. Will start shopping to find one and probable bolt it in. I think a tight fit AN bolt (aircraft grade) would do.

[Fred K-OR]

Like I mentioned above, you may want to start your search at Bert's in Denver.

[Russ B]

my original cabriolet frame crossmember had been welded up by my uncle, probably in the late '40's or early '50's. Looks like a stick welder and hardfacing rod.


I had another cross member to use but it also required some TIG welding repairs on the sides and I had to rivet it back in, but the significance of the cracks was less then the one above. But most of them are repairable if you can not find a replacement.

[Mike V. Florida]

Have it welded up or call Steve at Berts for a replacement.

[nq50]

I just had mine tig welded, then I installed a float a motor front mount. The weld job cost me $100.00. A lot easier than replacing the crossmember with another old one.

[BILL WILLIAMSON]

Dog here,
If you got a WELDER, use it! Ain't thet whut we buy them for??? I DON'T weld, did you ever smell Dog hair BURNIN'???
Buster T.

[pgerhardt]

Originally Posted by DWMOONEY

Recently started restoration on my 31 model A Coupe. After disassembly I found the front frame cross member cracked out badly where the front spring attaches. Can't find this part in the system for sale except the one that lowers the front end (and not exactly the same). Anyone have any advise on a weld repair for that area? I will be gas welding it. Thanks

There are a few here that are not for dropped axles:

http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_odkw...ember&_sacat=0

[Fred K-OR]

Originally Posted by pgerhardt

There are a few here that are not for dropped axles:

http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_odkw...ember&_sacat=0

Be careful with some of those advertised on EBay, they may not all be for a 30-31. Some of them do state they are for 30-31 so hope they know what they are saying.

[aford193031]

Big Flats Rivets has the correct diverts and bucking bars