The Ford Barn

19Fordy · 01-12-2016, 09:25 AM

Before I try to remove the torque tube center bearing, I would like to know exactly how it is held in place. Is there metal retainer welded to the inside of the torque tube that the bearing is pressed into? Is that center bearing easy to remove? By chance does anyone have a photo of its installation? Thanks, JIM

Tim Ayers · 01-12-2016, 09:42 AM

As a matter of fact I do. I can take a picture of it when I get home today.

19Fordy · 01-12-2016, 12:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tim Ayers

As a matter of fact I do. I can take a picture of it when I get home today.

WOW! Tim, that would be great. I have sent you a PM with my email.
Thanks again. JIM

alanwoodieman · 01-12-2016, 02:06 PM

pictures of an actual center bearing---

G.M. · 01-12-2016, 02:09 PM

Contact [email protected] and ask him to send you instructions
on how to remove and replace the center bearing. G.M.

Old Henry · 01-12-2016, 02:29 PM

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

These are Skip's instructions:

1937-1948 CENTER DRIVE SHAFT BEARING REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION

1- Remove speedometer drive gears and bearing.
2- Remove torque tube to rear bolts. Slide torque tube off drive shaft.
3-Stand torque tube up with rear bolt flange down.
4- Remove center grease fitting.
5- lnsert 42" length of 1-1/2" steel pipe down through transmission end of torque tube. Make sure it is centered on old bearing and drive out with a large hammer. There is a metal flange down there you will hit if not centered. [That is shown in alanwoodieman's pictures.]
6- Clean inside torque tube and examine with a flash light for any rubber or dirt.
7- Apply grease from rear end with an old broom handle to bearing area.
8- Insert alignment pin in grease fitting hole.
9- Slide new bearing assembly on drive shaft. If to tight file shaft to fit. It wants to slide on with very little effort, yet not be to loose.
10- Clean inside of new bearing sleeve and apply a THIN coat of J.B. Weld (not the fast hardening type) inside the sleeve and on the center bearing surface of the drive shaft. Grease the O.D. of the rubber.
11- Clean broom handle and slide new bearing assembly on broom handle with the white line facing down. With the torque tube standing up with the transmission end down, slide the bearing assembly onto the torque with the white line on the side of the grease hole in the torque tube.
12- Lay torque tube on a set of saw horses and with a flash light look in from transmission end. Align white line on end of bearing with the alignment to pin in grease hole.
13- Stand torque tube up on transmission end. REMOVE ALIGNMENT PIN and broom handle.
14- Take a 36" length of 2" plastic pipe with a coupling on one end and insert the coupling end down in the torque tube. Center on bearing and with a block of wood and a heavy hammer drive the bearing in until it seats. Carefully watch the white line through the grease hole so the hole in the tube aligns with the hole in the rubber.
15- Insert drive shaft into torque tube through the new bearing assembly and bolt up the rear.
16- Install grease fitting and grease.

Here's Skip's ad for the bearing:

19Fordy · 01-12-2016, 02:51 PM

Alan, GM and Old Henry: THANK YOU all very much for your help. I wonder if there is any sure fire way that bearing can be checked to see if it's working properly? My thinking is that I would replace it since the torque tube would already be removed. But then again, perhaps it's working fine as is. Wouldn't there be a noisey vibration if it was "
bad"? JIM

G.M. · 01-12-2016, 03:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 19Fordy

Alan, GM and Old Henry: THANK YOU all very much for your help. I wonder if there is any sure fire way that bearing can be checked to see if it's working properly? My thinking is that I would replace it since the torque tube would already be removed. But then again, perhaps it's working fine as is. Wouldn't there be a noisey vibration if it was "
bad"? JIM

I wouldn't try to remove it to check, the rubber it's mounted
in will break apart. Pull the drive shaft and make something
the OD of the drive shaft to reach down in and see if the
bearing turns or feels wobbly. That's about all you can do.
Grease it good. G.M.

19Fordy · 01-12-2016, 07:18 PM

G.M. Thanks again. Times like this I wish I lived on your coast of FL instead of
the east coast.

Tim Ayers · 01-12-2016, 09:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 19Fordy

WOW! Tim, that would be great. I have sent you a PM with my email.
Thanks again. JIM

Jim

Looks like you are all set with the picture. I'll take one anyway since mine is not cut away.

Good luck,

Tim

johnny · 01-12-2016, 10:48 PM

We have a 46 woodie with a bad clutch chatter problem .Son Andy the mechanic said that the noise seems to be coming from the drive tube .His suggestion: Drill a hole in the bottom of the outer tube back from the bearing thread the hole for a 5/16 bolt .Screw it up to the drive shaft .I did, you could feel it touch the shaft but it could still be tightened maybe 3 to 4 turns and then it stopped with a tinny sound as though the shaft was hitting the grease seal We tested the car for a short drive with the bolt against the shaft and the chatter seemed to be better .so will be changing the bearing this winter. John.

19Fordy · 01-13-2016, 10:06 AM

Johnny, be sure and take plenty of 'How It's Done" photos to share on the Fordbarn.
All the best.

Tim Ayers · 01-13-2016, 10:35 AM

OK, fellas. Here are some pictures.

19Fordy · 01-13-2016, 10:39 AM

Tim: Excellent photos. Thanks for posting them. Big help to be able to see the bearing "in place" from both sides. Plus, now all I have to do to remove it is make 2 cuts in my torque tube!
Just kidding.

john in illinois · 01-13-2016, 01:54 PM

Fordy,I tested mine with a L shaped piece of welding rod on the end of a steel rod. I put the welding rod in between the rollers and rotated it to see if they rolled freely. I used a bright flashlight to see it turn. The rollers were shiny and turned easy,so I hope it is OK. There was a thread about this and most people said they usually don't fail.

You can flush it through the grease fitting hole to clean it.

John

19Fordy · 01-13-2016, 01:56 PM

That's good news. Thanks again.

alanwoodieman · 01-13-2016, 03:19 PM

have you dismantled the torque tube/driveshaft? are there any marks on the shaft?, the one I dismembered the shaft was welded on one end to coupling and other end was welded to hitch and it was really turned down in the center from wear, etc

19Fordy · 01-13-2016, 03:56 PM

I have not yet dismantled the torque tube, but I sure hope it is not like the one you described. That doesn't sound good.

01-12-2016, 09:25 AM	#1
19Fordy Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Coral Springs FL Posts: 10,951	1940 Torque Tube Center Bearing construction Before I try to remove the torque tube center bearing, I would like to know exactly how it is held in place. Is there metal retainer welded to the inside of the torque tube that the bearing is pressed into? Is that center bearing easy to remove? By chance does anyone have a photo of its installation? Thanks, JIM

01-12-2016, 09:42 AM	#2
Tim Ayers Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: NJ Posts: 6,182	Re: 1940 Torque Tube Center Bearing construction As a matter of fact I do. I can take a picture of it when I get home today.

01-12-2016, 02:09 PM	#5
G.M. Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Florida and Penna. Posts: 4,471	Re: 1940 Torque Tube Center Bearing construction Contact [email protected] and ask him to send you instructions on how to remove and replace the center bearing. G.M. __________________ www.fordcollector.com

01-12-2016, 02:29 PM	#6
Old Henry Senior Member Join Date: Oct 2010 Location: Orem, Utah Posts: 5,762	Re: 1940 Torque Tube Center Bearing construction Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) These are Skip's instructions: 1937-1948 CENTER DRIVE SHAFT BEARING REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION 1- Remove speedometer drive gears and bearing. 2- Remove torque tube to rear bolts. Slide torque tube off drive shaft. 3-Stand torque tube up with rear bolt flange down. 4- Remove center grease fitting. 5- lnsert 42" length of 1-1/2" steel pipe down through transmission end of torque tube. Make sure it is centered on old bearing and drive out with a large hammer. There is a metal flange down there you will hit if not centered. [That is shown in alanwoodieman's pictures.] 6- Clean inside torque tube and examine with a flash light for any rubber or dirt. 7- Apply grease from rear end with an old broom handle to bearing area. 8- Insert alignment pin in grease fitting hole. 9- Slide new bearing assembly on drive shaft. If to tight file shaft to fit. It wants to slide on with very little effort, yet not be to loose. 10- Clean inside of new bearing sleeve and apply a THIN coat of J.B. Weld (not the fast hardening type) inside the sleeve and on the center bearing surface of the drive shaft. Grease the O.D. of the rubber. 11- Clean broom handle and slide new bearing assembly on broom handle with the white line facing down. With the torque tube standing up with the transmission end down, slide the bearing assembly onto the torque with the white line on the side of the grease hole in the torque tube. 12- Lay torque tube on a set of saw horses and with a flash light look in from transmission end. Align white line on end of bearing with the alignment to pin in grease hole. 13- Stand torque tube up on transmission end. REMOVE ALIGNMENT PIN and broom handle. 14- Take a 36" length of 2" plastic pipe with a coupling on one end and insert the coupling end down in the torque tube. Center on bearing and with a block of wood and a heavy hammer drive the bearing in until it seats. Carefully watch the white line through the grease hole so the hole in the tube aligns with the hole in the rubber. 15- Insert drive shaft into torque tube through the new bearing assembly and bolt up the rear. 16- Install grease fitting and grease. Here's Skip's ad for the bearing: __________________ Prof. Henry (The Roaming Gnome) "It is good to have an end to journey toward; but it is the journey that matters, in the end.” *Ursula K. Le Guin in The Left Hand of Darkness

01-12-2016, 02:51 PM	#7
19Fordy Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Coral Springs FL Posts: 10,951	Re: 1940 Torque Tube Center Bearing construction Alan, GM and Old Henry: THANK YOU all very much for your help. I wonder if there is any sure fire way that bearing can be checked to see if it's working properly? My thinking is that I would replace it since the torque tube would already be removed. But then again, perhaps it's working fine as is. Wouldn't there be a noisey vibration if it was " bad"? JIM

01-12-2016, 07:18 PM	#9
19Fordy Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Coral Springs FL Posts: 10,951	Re: 1940 Torque Tube Center Bearing construction G.M. Thanks again. Times like this I wish I lived on your coast of FL instead of the east coast.

01-12-2016, 10:48 PM	#11
johnny Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: London On, Can. Posts: 377	Re: 1940 Torque Tube Center Bearing construction We have a 46 woodie with a bad clutch chatter problem .Son Andy the mechanic said that the noise seems to be coming from the drive tube .His suggestion: Drill a hole in the bottom of the outer tube back from the bearing thread the hole for a 5/16 bolt .Screw it up to the drive shaft .I did, you could feel it touch the shaft but it could still be tightened maybe 3 to 4 turns and then it stopped with a tinny sound as though the shaft was hitting the grease seal We tested the car for a short drive with the bolt against the shaft and the chatter seemed to be better .so will be changing the bearing this winter. John.

01-13-2016, 10:06 AM	#12
19Fordy Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Coral Springs FL Posts: 10,951	Re: 1940 Torque Tube Center Bearing construction Johnny, be sure and take plenty of 'How It's Done" photos to share on the Fordbarn. All the best.

01-13-2016, 10:39 AM	#14
19Fordy Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Coral Springs FL Posts: 10,951	Re: 1940 Torque Tube Center Bearing construction Tim: Excellent photos. Thanks for posting them. Big help to be able to see the bearing "in place" from both sides. Plus, now all I have to do to remove it is make 2 cuts in my torque tube! Just kidding.

01-13-2016, 01:54 PM	#15
john in illinois Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Illinois Posts: 2,185	Re: 1940 Torque Tube Center Bearing construction Fordy,I tested mine with a L shaped piece of welding rod on the end of a steel rod. I put the welding rod in between the rollers and rotated it to see if they rolled freely. I used a bright flashlight to see it turn. The rollers were shiny and turned easy,so I hope it is OK. There was a thread about this and most people said they usually don't fail. You can flush it through the grease fitting hole to clean it. John

01-13-2016, 01:56 PM	#16
19Fordy Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Coral Springs FL Posts: 10,951	Re: 1940 Torque Tube Center Bearing construction That's good news. Thanks again.

01-13-2016, 03:19 PM	#17
alanwoodieman Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: upstate SC Posts: 2,967	Re: 1940 Torque Tube Center Bearing construction have you dismantled the torque tube/driveshaft? are there any marks on the shaft?, the one I dismembered the shaft was welded on one end to coupling and other end was welded to hitch and it was really turned down in the center from wear, etc

01-13-2016, 03:56 PM	#18
19Fordy Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Coral Springs FL Posts: 10,951	Re: 1940 Torque Tube Center Bearing construction I have not yet dismantled the torque tube, but I sure hope it is not like the one you described. That doesn't sound good.