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#1 |
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Location: Wilmington, NC
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Just recently discovered a oil puddle under the rear of the '56 Ford Victoria about the size of a dinner plate. Dunno how long there has been a leak. Could be over a year, and I didn't notice. There is no whine or whirring or clunk or thunk going around corners or anywhere else. I'm thinking it is a leaking seal. Haven't had time yet to get it to a shop, but, I'm thinking the bearings and gears wouldn't be affected, because there isn't any "noise". What say you? Should I expect to have the seal replaced? Or, is it something else? Thanks!
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#2 |
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Pretty much only two things it can be... the gasket on the rear cover (unless it has a different style axle housing) or the seal on the pinion gear shaft.
If it's leaking at the front you should be able to see or find a bit of gear oil running down and back toward the lowest point on the housing. |
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#3 |
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your pinion seal should be where your leak is.your rearend will not have the back cover.
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#4 | |
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#5 |
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I had a leak at my pinion seal too with a puddle about the size of a silver dollar. About 80 miles later the pinion gear ate the ring gear because the pinion nut had come loose, thusly allowing a small oil leak. I could have prevented the whole catastrophy if I would have heeded the warning. My bad!!
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#6 |
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#7 |
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Location: IN A 'GALAXIE' FAR FAR AWAY
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If it still has the DANA, it has a rear cover. Before driving to a shop, I would fill the diff. It doesn't take much to ruin something.
One can hum on low lubricant but finding someone knowledgeable to work on it and finding correct parts is a challenge, If the pinion seal, the pinion bearing pre-load has to be checked along with bearing(s) wear. Also check the rear vent. If plugged it can cause axle seal failure but if pressure is extreme it may also take a pinion seal.
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#8 | |
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#9 |
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this is a very simple job.a half hour should do it.
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#10 | |
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That is going to depend entirely on what he finds and what parts he has to chase. The main reason a regular shop does not like to get involved is that something like this may tie a lift up and lose money. I have a 2005 TAURUS now that is driving me crazy as most parts are no longer available and everything I touch seems to break or someone has been in there previously and rigged something.
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#11 | |
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#12 |
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Yeah, please keep the board updated, preferably on this thread.
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#13 |
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Okay, for anybody who was looking for an update, here ya go:
The mechanic changed out the pinion seal and drained and put in new oil. Initially there was some calling around for the seal, and all the sources kept saying for a DANA, but, this differential isn't a DANA. So, it took some time to get the right one, but, NAPA had one. The oil was pretty thick, and the guys were laughing about it, and called me over to show me. Guess it hasn't been changed since Hector Was A Pup. All looks good and clean back there, and since there never was any noise, it still sounds the same. Should I go back after driving the car some more to do another oil change in the differential in case they didn't get all the old crud out? They DID let it drain for almost 30 minutes, and nothing else was coming out. Thanks. |
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#14 |
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Glad it worked out for you.
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#15 |
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"Should I go back after driving the car some more to do another oil change in the differential in case they didn't get all the old crud out? They DID let it drain for almost 30 minutes, and nothing else was coming out."
It's prolly OK as is but if you're concerned about it you can drain it, fill it wit a solvent like diesel fuel, jack the rear wheels off the ground and run it at idle for a couple of minutes to circulate the solvent, then drain the solvent until it stops dripping and refill it with diff oil. There won't be a substantial load on the diff with the wheels off the ground.
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#16 |
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I don't like the idea of running on stands w/o gear oil; things happen. If it makes you feel better, drain it, wipe it out, spray it down with carb cleaner, WD40, etc., while spinning wheel by hand, wipe it out again, button it up, and re-fill it. Make sure gasket surfaces are clean and torque cover bolts in sequence. Hopefully it won't leak when finished.
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#17 | |
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It was most likely a DANA, but a model most have not seen for fifty years. Just so you know, the seal should have a STAMPING I.D. NO (as will bearings/cups) that can be crossed into a modern PN. Yes, change the fluid again. No solvents as it doesn't take much to damage a bearing/cup. A modern fluid will have detergents that should take the sludge/varnish down after a while. All the above is IMO.
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#18 | |
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#19 |
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Someone ...
![]() Getting hard to find good help with the war(s) and all.
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#20 |
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Yes if you change lube try to get a picture. Until now I thought the Dana only came in wagons and Tbird in 56 or trucks.
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#21 |
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it is not a dana
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#22 |
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How to you arrive at this conclusion. If not a DANA, what? 12 Bolt CHEV - 8.8"FORD (also a DANA). Can you give the board a clue?
DANA 41 and 44 were used in this period not to mention a DANA 45 used in MERC wagon. It is difficult to narrow the exact usage as most info refers to later truck axles.
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#23 | |
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Now the question is, was the rear drained with removal of a rear cover or a drain hole? The pinion seal should have been able to have been replaced without carrier removal. Sorry about that There was a lengthly discussion on THE OTHER FORUM about this not long ago and once again, CRS overtook me ... ![]()
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#24 |
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Question is who supplied the pre-1957 light duty axles if it wasn't Dana? I've found no info on the web and, believe me, I've looked.
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#25 |
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A banjo-style (not 9") was also used, but it wouldn't have a rear cover. Here are quotes from my 1955 Ford Car Shop Manual: "Passenger cars are equipped with a semi-floating, banjo housing, hypoid rear axle."
"An integral housing hypoid rear axle (fig. 21) is installed, as standard equipment, on Country Squire, Country Sedan, Ranch Wagon, Courier, Thunderbird, and Interceptor Models." 1956-56 Thunderbirds came with the latter, which is a Dana 44, and it has a rear cover, unlike the banjo-type. If the axle has a rear cover, and it's not a Dana 44, it is not a 55-56 OEM axle. If that's the case, it must be a non-Ford axle. |
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#26 |
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Now the question is, was the rear drained with removal of a rear cover or a drain hole? The pinion seal should have been able to have been replaced without carrier removal. Sorry about that The rear was drained with a drain hole. FYI, the instant the mechanic looked at it he said it wasn't a DANA. Initially, when he looked at the parts manuals for the local guys, they all said it was a DANA. When he phoned around to other "old" guys who've worked on these differentials over the past 40 years, they agreed it wasn't a DANA, and took to their own, dusty, dog eared, parts books, to look up what was needed, and called him back. The mechanic then knew what to get, and was able to get it from NAPA, which surprised me, because of the difficulty in identifying the part, I thought we'd have to go to an on-line source out of state, and wait for delivery. But, the local NAPA place had it, and we were in business. Thanks to all who've added to this discussion. It has been educational, and appreciated. |
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#27 | |
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OK, that and it took a while to drain points to a FORD rear. DARREL, I apologize. It would have to be a P/I or had a transplant to be a DANA.
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#28 |
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I did some work on a '55 Crown with a 272 and 3 spd OverDrive that had a Dana (rear cover) and not the Ford (pumpkin style).
As far as the amount of time to replace the pinion seal, if it's a Dana, I would expect it to be about a 1-2 hour job; if the Ford drop out, then maybe give myself a half a day. 3 hours if feeling really energetic. Ted Eaton. |
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#29 | |
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#30 |
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I helped/watched a friend put a Dana from a wagon in a 56 Victoria from a 56 wagon, he also put a T85 and a 427 in front of it. But 50 years ago is a long time. Anything possible over the years. BTW that was quite a ride, passenger seat back was bent 2 inches further back than driver. Nothing to hang on to.
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