The Ford Barn

Terry/Iowa · 04-13-2015, 04:57 PM

Last time I drove my 29 Tudor it started right up. I drove it to my front yard to wash it and shut it off. When I went to restart it, no juice whatsoever. Since it had set for awhile before this ride I suspected a bad battery. I put a charger on it for a couple of hours and it started right up, I drove it a couple of miles and stopped and shut it down. It restarted right up, moved 20 feet and died. Trying to re-start proved no juice at all again. I took the battery out and to a shop to have it checked. Checked out fine. I suspect a bad ground. Cleaned all terminals, posts, and the frame where it grounds. A test light shows bright when connected to the two posts. With the Neg cable on and the light between the Pos and the frame, nothing. I have another ground wire from the engine to the frame, but it does look crappy and I am going to replace it too. Does anyone have any other suggestions?

Mitch//pa · 04-13-2015, 05:48 PM

do you have lights??? or just no crank or both??
a little more info will be helpful

Dbbc · 04-13-2015, 05:52 PM

I had a similar issue, when the car ran great and then one day, the car would start, then sputter and died. I believe the problem was the condenser.
Cheap enough to replace it and see if that fixes the issues you are having.

oldbike99 · 04-13-2015, 06:07 PM

This problem just shouts "bad connection", either on the power or ground side. An inexpensive voltmeter would really simplify finding it. Other wise, recheck all your prior work. Sorry, but that is all I can suggest from here.

Terry/Iowa · 04-13-2015, 06:14 PM

When the car stopped I had no electricity registering on the gauge, no lights, no horn, just no electricity at all. I do believe it is a connection somewhere also, but haven't been able to find it. I do have a voltmeter, but so far either get full current or no current. If there was a bad connection somewhere other than a ground I would think I would show some current from the Pos pole to ground, but don't. Thanks for the suggestions, I'll keep plugging away.

Mitch//pa · 04-13-2015, 06:17 PM

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did you ck the connection at the starter? use your test light or volt meter and trace it out to where you lose the 6 volts. start at the batt cables on the battery then branch outwards

Terry/Iowa · 04-13-2015, 06:21 PM

I have only checked the starter in a cursory manner. That is where I am going to concentrate next. I'm done for the day and will look at that first thing in the AM.

WestCoast · 04-13-2015, 06:35 PM

quit screwing around and replace the battery cables

170bdlx · 04-13-2015, 06:44 PM

Had this type problem for some time. Ended up being a bad connection inside the battery clamp.

MikeK · 04-13-2015, 06:55 PM

I had a modern car with a bad internal connection between cells. The vehicle acted exactly as described.

Bruce Adams · 04-13-2015, 07:05 PM

NO JUICE AT ALL means it is the battery, the cables and or their connections to the starter, or possibly the starter, unless, during the NO JUICE AT ALL period you have tried the horn or lights, and if they were also NOT workng we are back to
Battery
Cable hot/ground Connections (also bad battery switch or connectios if applicable)
Starter

Good luck !
Its an easy one to diagnose.

Gyrodoc · 04-13-2015, 07:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mitch//pa

did you ck the connection at the starter? use your test light or volt meter and trace it out to where you lose the 6 volts. start at the batt cables on the battery then branch outwards

I agree with Mitch's approach. However in my case shortly after I bought my Model A acted much like yours. When it ran it ran great. I looked at the wiring from junction box splices everywhere behind dash panel more splices. I bought a new wire harness. 2 hours work and has been great ever since. If old wiring is suspect just replace the whole thing with new.

Mitch//pa · 04-13-2015, 07:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gyrodoc

I agree with Mitch's approach. However in my case shortly after I bought my Model A acted much like yours. When it ran it ran great. I looked at the wiring from junction box splices everywhere behind dash panel more splices. I bought a new wire harness. 2 hours work and has been great ever since. If old wiring is suspect just replace the whole thing with new.

i like to diagnose things and not replace until i am sure
my customers appreciate that also

BILL WILLIAMSON · 04-13-2015, 07:19 PM

While jumping across various connections to locate the problem, leave the headlights ON! The moment you find the bad connection, "VOILLE' YOU HAVE HEADLIGHTS"!
REMEMBER, once you locate an electrical problem, the "FIX" is usually very SIMPLE & QUICK! (Dog here, Ol' Bill hopes you all DON'T git tired uf his name always POPPPIN' up, he's jist tryin' to HEP!)
Bill W. & Buster T.

Bob C · 04-13-2015, 07:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Terry/Iowa

When the car stopped I had no electricity registering on the gauge, no lights, no horn, just no electricity at all. I do believe it is a connection somewhere also, but haven't been able to find it. I do have a voltmeter, but so far either get full current or no current. If there was a bad connection somewhere other than a ground I would think I would show some current from the Pos pole to ground, but don't. Thanks for the suggestions, I'll keep plugging away.

If you have a stock 6 volt positive ground system the Pos pole
is the ground. Also I think you are saying current when you mean
volts.

Bob

SteveB31 · 04-13-2015, 07:51 PM

An easy way to check that, is when it wont start, run a jumper cable from the pos. terminal to a good ground on the engine. If it starts right up, then you know it is the ground.

jax55 · 04-13-2015, 08:02 PM

I agree with all who said battery cables, ground connection to frame or at the starter. Do a "wiggle" test of the cables to be sure you don't have a hidden problem there. Verify clean and tight connections at starter, ground and battery terminals.
I think even if you have a bad condenser, starter, wiring or ignition switch you will have lights OR starter cranking or some kind of draw on the ammeter.

Tom Wesenberg · 04-13-2015, 10:05 PM

I would test first then fix or replace any parts.
My first guess is the battery posts and cables should be cleaned.
My second guess is a bad cable to terminal connection at the battery end.

When it won't start put your volt meter between the parts that are suspect, such as put the negative meter lead on the negative battery post, and put the positive meter lead on the cable end of the same battery post. If it reads 6 volts, you know you have a bad connection there, so clean the post and cable end. If it shows 0 volts, then move the positive cable up to the starter switch stud. If it now shows 6 volts, you know that end of the cable has a problem. Turn the lights on for this testing, as you need to complete the circuit.

Mike V. Florida · 04-13-2015, 10:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 170bdlx

Had this type problem for some time. Ended up being a bad connection inside the battery clamp.

I too have been bit by that on different cars at different times.

Tom Wesenberg · 04-13-2015, 11:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mike V. Florida

I too have been bit by that on different cars at different times.

Yep, I've seen it twice. A light tug on the cable and it came right out of the terminal on one. The other one didn't slip out, but was full of corrosion inside where it couldn't be easily seen.

BILL WILLIAMSON · 04-14-2015, 12:32 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tom Wesenberg

Yep, I've seen it twice. A light tug on the cable and it came right out of the terminal on one. The other one didn't slip out, but was full of corrosion inside where it couldn't be easily seen.

YEP! That BLACKISH/BLUE coating inside the clamp & on the post & it DOESN'T leave any white, tell tale FUZZ.
Bill W.

vern hodgson · 04-14-2015, 01:16 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 170bdlx

Had this type problem for some time. Ended up being a bad connection inside the battery clamp.

Yes, I had that problem with modern iron once, my dad said to check my battery cables, looked fine to me, then he had me inspect inside the the connector, all corroded inside.

BILL WILLIAMSON · 04-14-2015, 01:34 AM

If you pour BOILING water on the post & dunk the cable end in a can of BOILING water, it'll clean them SLICK AS A WHISTLE!!! The ACID acts like it's OWN CLEANER, when heat is added!
Chief taught me this "trick"
Bill W.

Tom Wesenberg · 04-14-2015, 10:35 AM

The older tar top batteries had more acid and corrosion than the newer batteries, and like Bill, I've used hot water to clean them for many years. My Corvair gave me a problem once back in the late 60's. The battery and cables looked clean, but the lead had a hard dark coating that I had to remove with the blade of my pocket knife. The hard dark coating may look clean, but it doesn't conduct electricity well.

Terry/Iowa · 04-14-2015, 12:10 PM

Got her fixed today. Turned out to be the cut off switch on the cable. Thanks for all the help.

04-13-2015, 04:57 PM	#1
Terry/Iowa Junior Member Join Date: Jul 2010 Location: Western Iowa Posts: 16	Electrical/Ground Last time I drove my 29 Tudor it started right up. I drove it to my front yard to wash it and shut it off. When I went to restart it, no juice whatsoever. Since it had set for awhile before this ride I suspected a bad battery. I put a charger on it for a couple of hours and it started right up, I drove it a couple of miles and stopped and shut it down. It restarted right up, moved 20 feet and died. Trying to re-start proved no juice at all again. I took the battery out and to a shop to have it checked. Checked out fine. I suspect a bad ground. Cleaned all terminals, posts, and the frame where it grounds. A test light shows bright when connected to the two posts. With the Neg cable on and the light between the Pos and the frame, nothing. I have another ground wire from the engine to the frame, but it does look crappy and I am going to replace it too. Does anyone have any other suggestions?

04-13-2015, 05:48 PM	#2
Mitch//pa BANNED Join Date: May 2010 Location: Bucks County, PA Posts: 11,454	Re: Electrical/Ground do you have lights??? or just no crank or both?? a little more info will be helpful

04-13-2015, 05:52 PM	#3
Dbbc Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2014 Location: Honolulu Posts: 116	Re: Electrical/Ground I had a similar issue, when the car ran great and then one day, the car would start, then sputter and died. I believe the problem was the condenser. Cheap enough to replace it and see if that fixes the issues you are having.

04-13-2015, 06:07 PM	#4
oldbike99 Senior Member Join Date: Oct 2012 Location: Grand Forks, ND Posts: 194	Re: Electrical/Ground This problem just shouts "bad connection", either on the power or ground side. An inexpensive voltmeter would really simplify finding it. Other wise, recheck all your prior work. Sorry, but that is all I can suggest from here.

04-13-2015, 06:14 PM	#5
Terry/Iowa Junior Member Join Date: Jul 2010 Location: Western Iowa Posts: 16	Re: Electrical/Ground When the car stopped I had no electricity registering on the gauge, no lights, no horn, just no electricity at all. I do believe it is a connection somewhere also, but haven't been able to find it. I do have a voltmeter, but so far either get full current or no current. If there was a bad connection somewhere other than a ground I would think I would show some current from the Pos pole to ground, but don't. Thanks for the suggestions, I'll keep plugging away.

04-13-2015, 06:17 PM	#6
Mitch//pa BANNED Join Date: May 2010 Location: Bucks County, PA Posts: 11,454	Re: Electrical/Ground Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) did you ck the connection at the starter? use your test light or volt meter and trace it out to where you lose the 6 volts. start at the batt cables on the battery then branch outwards

04-13-2015, 06:21 PM	#7
Terry/Iowa Junior Member Join Date: Jul 2010 Location: Western Iowa Posts: 16	Re: Electrical/Ground I have only checked the starter in a cursory manner. That is where I am going to concentrate next. I'm done for the day and will look at that first thing in the AM.

04-13-2015, 06:35 PM	#8
WestCoast Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2014 Location: oroville calif Posts: 893	Re: Electrical/Ground quit screwing around and replace the battery cables

04-13-2015, 06:44 PM	#9
170bdlx Junior Member Join Date: May 2012 Location: Jefferson City,MO Posts: 20	Re: Electrical/Ground Had this type problem for some time. Ended up being a bad connection inside the battery clamp.

04-13-2015, 06:55 PM	#10
MikeK Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Windy City Posts: 2,919	Re: Electrical/Ground I had a modern car with a bad internal connection between cells. The vehicle acted exactly as described.

04-13-2015, 07:05 PM	#11
Bruce Adams Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Northport, NY Posts: 1,597	Re: Electrical/Ground NO JUICE AT ALL means it is the battery, the cables and or their connections to the starter, or possibly the starter, unless, during the NO JUICE AT ALL period you have tried the horn or lights, and if they were also NOT workng we are back to Battery Cable hot/ground Connections (also bad battery switch or connectios if applicable) Starter Good luck ! Its an easy one to diagnose.

04-13-2015, 07:19 PM	#14
BILL WILLIAMSON Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2010 Location: FRESNO, CA Posts: 12,560	Re: Electrical/Ground While jumping across various connections to locate the problem, leave the headlights ON! The moment you find the bad connection, "VOILLE' YOU HAVE HEADLIGHTS"! REMEMBER, once you locate an electrical problem, the "FIX" is usually very SIMPLE & QUICK! (Dog here, Ol' Bill hopes you all DON'T git tired uf his name always POPPPIN' up, he's jist tryin' to HEP!) Bill W. & Buster T. __________________ "THE ASSISTANT GURU OF STUFF"

04-13-2015, 07:51 PM	#16
SteveB31 Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Englewood, Colorado Posts: 1,372	Re: Electrical/Ground An easy way to check that, is when it wont start, run a jumper cable from the pos. terminal to a good ground on the engine. If it starts right up, then you know it is the ground.

04-13-2015, 08:02 PM	#17
jax55 Senior Member Join Date: May 2014 Location: Santa Barbara, Ca Posts: 329	Re: Electrical/Ground I agree with all who said battery cables, ground connection to frame or at the starter. Do a "wiggle" test of the cables to be sure you don't have a hidden problem there. Verify clean and tight connections at starter, ground and battery terminals. I think even if you have a bad condenser, starter, wiring or ignition switch you will have lights OR starter cranking or some kind of draw on the ammeter.

04-13-2015, 10:05 PM	#18
Tom Wesenberg Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Mpls, MN Posts: 27,582	Re: Electrical/Ground I would test first then fix or replace any parts. My first guess is the battery posts and cables should be cleaned. My second guess is a bad cable to terminal connection at the battery end. When it won't start put your volt meter between the parts that are suspect, such as put the negative meter lead on the negative battery post, and put the positive meter lead on the cable end of the same battery post. If it reads 6 volts, you know you have a bad connection there, so clean the post and cable end. If it shows 0 volts, then move the positive cable up to the starter switch stud. If it now shows 6 volts, you know that end of the cable has a problem. Turn the lights on for this testing, as you need to complete the circuit. Last edited by Tom Wesenberg; 04-13-2015 at 11:15 PM.

04-14-2015, 01:34 AM	#23
BILL WILLIAMSON Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2010 Location: FRESNO, CA Posts: 12,560	Re: Electrical/Ground If you pour BOILING water on the post & dunk the cable end in a can of BOILING water, it'll clean them SLICK AS A WHISTLE!!! The ACID acts like it's OWN CLEANER, when heat is added! Chief taught me this "trick" Bill W. __________________ "THE ASSISTANT GURU OF STUFF"

04-14-2015, 10:35 AM	#24
Tom Wesenberg Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Mpls, MN Posts: 27,582	Re: Electrical/Ground The older tar top batteries had more acid and corrosion than the newer batteries, and like Bill, I've used hot water to clean them for many years. My Corvair gave me a problem once back in the late 60's. The battery and cables looked clean, but the lead had a hard dark coating that I had to remove with the blade of my pocket knife. The hard dark coating may look clean, but it doesn't conduct electricity well.

04-14-2015, 12:10 PM	#25
Terry/Iowa Junior Member Join Date: Jul 2010 Location: Western Iowa Posts: 16	Re: Electrical/Ground Got her fixed today. Turned out to be the cut off switch on the cable. Thanks for all the help.