Synchronized Transmission

[31dan]

I am tired of grinding the gears in my 31 truck. Does anyone know a way to solve this problem with the original trans. If not what trans would you recommend

[Kurt in NJ]

Proper oil in transmission
Low idle speed
Learning to match engine speed to road speed for that gear
Shift earlier
Sometimes double clutching can help shifting timing
Read owners instruction book
Stay in top gear more, it will pull most driving in top gear

[ndnchf]

Mitchell sells a synchronized transmission. But I agree with Kurt. Learn how to shift it properly. Get with an experienced model A owner to show you how to shift without grinding. Its not rocket science, its simply a matter of not rushing and learning the technique.

[springerpete]

Much of the fun of having a model A is mastering all of the tricks of the car. For sure, take the help of a club member or someone you know about transmission oil, clutch health and double clutching. It is very simple. I also suggest slowing down during the shifting process. Bill

[antiquepa]

Double Clutch, and take your time, slowly don't be in a hurry!!

[divcoone]

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

In case you need another reason to go with a Mitchell, they have an option that raises the second gear ratio making it even better.

[nkaminar]

The Mitchell transmission is not synchronized in first and reverse. Normally not a problem as you are usually stopped when shifting into these gears. But if you have to downshift to low when moving you have to double clutch.

Double clutching gets automatic after a while. After 60 years of driving Model A's I still miss on rare occasions. It is hard estimating the engine speed needed for the gear change.

I use the 85W-140 gear oil in my transmission as recommended by Mitchell.

[Dino's A]

Can you shift to 3rd gear around 15 mph without lugging the
motor? Or better yet, when we say "Shift early" what can be
the safest,lowest speed without damaging the motor?

[P.S.]

Mitchell builds the sync transmission into original Model A transmission cases, so it looks original. No modifications required, just bolt-in. The shifter throw is a little shorter than the stock shifter throw between 2nd and 3rd.

Mitchell builds them in 3 different configurations (ratios).

#1 is stock gears
#2 is stock reverse and 1st, but 15% higher 2nd
#3 is 15% higher 1st, reverse, and 2nd

3rd gear is straight-through, so that ratio is not affected. Steve is also producing sleeves to install over the shift rail ends in the shift tower that limit the throw so that you don't accidentally over-engage 2nd or 3rd for the guys racing or violently shifting them, saving the forks and gears. They can be added to existing towers, making the shifts of the sync transmissions feel rock-solid. Absolutely fantastic. You can't overshoot the detents!

Video in production now showing the Mitchell transmission production machines and units being built by Steve. Also showing the new shift rail limiting sleeves and how they work. Then another video coming showing the swap of a transmission to a Mitchell sync trans.

[Mulletwagon]

Short shift (shift early) from first to second, double clutch second to third. The big secret down shifting from third to second is to clutch to neutral, let out the clutch, bump up the rpm, and then clutch and shift to second. Mastering the Model A shifting regiment is the big na, na, na na, na to the novices than grind the gears every time. Good Luck.

[Banditorama]

What Mulletwagon said^

I shift out of first gear ~5-8mph without double clutching. Just a slow move from gate to gate, the engine almost drops back to idle in between the shift. Second to third I shift ~20mph, unless I need to accelerate faster, then I'll shift ~25mph. I always double clutch between those gears.

Listen to the RPMs drop and gently apply pressure to the shifter, it should just slip into the next gear with almost no force.

[Y-Blockhead]

Originally Posted by P.S.

Mitchell builds the sync transmission into original Model A transmission cases, so it looks original. No modifications required, just bolt-in. The shifter throw is a little shorter than the stock shifter throw between 2nd and 3rd.

Mitchell builds them in 3 different configurations (ratios).

#1 is stock gears
#2 is stock reverse and 1st, but 15% higher 2nd
#3 is 15% higher 1st, reverse, and 2nd

3rd gear is straight-through, so that ratio is not affected. Steve is also producing sleeves to install over the shift rail ends in the shift tower that limit the throw so that you don't accidentally over-engage 2nd or 3rd for the guys racing or violently shifting them, saving the forks and gears. They can be added to existing towers, making the shifts of the sync transmissions feel rock-solid. Absolutely fantastic. You can't overshoot the detents!

Video in production now showing the Mitchell transmission production machines and units being built by Steve. Also showing the new shift rail limiting sleeves and how they work. Then another video coming showing the swap of a transmission to a Mitchell sync trans.

Paul, I'm looking forward to your videos on the Mitchell Transmissions. Do the limiting sleeves interfere with "The Real Deal Oil Seal" at all?

I just recently received my Mitchell Synchro Trans (after waiting 9 months, not complaining, just an FYI to those that want to order one). Altho I have not installed the trans yet, due to tours and health issues, I am looking forward to it.

I already have a Mitchell 26% OD so I have no issues shifting (up or down). I wanted the Synchro trans mainly to close the gap between 2nd and 3rd gears. the 15% over 1st and 2nd gears and synchros are an added bonus.

[Ray in La Mesa]

The stress of unsynchronized shifting causes one to grip the gear shift ball with a fist, that just compounds the problem. Use only two fingers lightly to shift, the shifter will side in when the gears match speed.

[Chris Haynes]

Originally Posted by 31dan

I am tired of grinding the gears in my 31 truck. Does anyone know a way to solve this problem with the original trans. If not what trans would you recommend

Use your ears. Learn how to time your shifts and you won't have a problem. Take the time necessary between gears and don't try to shove it in. As an old school trucker I actually shift gears without using the clutch.

[Jim Brierley]

I'm not sure that others have actually answered your question. For my money the early Ford V8 trans is the best way to go. The '39 is the best, but the '32-'38 work very well too. The difference in the two is the style of synchronizer in them, the ratios are all the same, and much better than the Model. You can buy an adapter from Cling's Aftermarket, although I hear that Dennis Cling has sold to his grandson, but the grandson is continuing with the business and has new adapter castings on order.

With the V8 trans, no major changes need to be made to the car, it is a direct, and easy, bolt-in process. Some are now using a 5-speed as produced by the Chevy S-10 pickup. These are really nice, but much harder to install, and totally change the Model A experience.

[jeepguy1948]

I got a Mitchell transmission for the very simple reason that I promised my wife that I would do what it took to make the Model A so that she could drive it. There are many that say something to the effect that “real men don’t need no synchronizers”, all I can say is that I don’t need them but I can’t say I don’t like them. I live in a congested area with lot’s of traffic and stoplights, I probably have to shift up and down 12 times just to get a gallon of milk and it gets old. The Mitchel just makes it more fun, and made my wife happy. A lightened flywheel helps too.

[Charlie Stephens]

Everyone assumes you have a pickup truck based on the passenger vehicle chassis when talking about the Mitchell. You don't by any chance have a large truck, AA?

Also, put your general location in your profile. You can never tell when it will be useful.

Charlie Stephens

[Joe K]

I can go from first to second without double clutching.

From second to third I can do it - but it's a lot easier to double clutch.

Funny. When I first got the Model A and before any work on it I drove it around town quite a bit. Even my father remarked on the lack of "grinding" which in his previous experience seemed "unavoidable" on occasion even for experienced drivers.

Imagine my chagrin to dismantle the car, remove the transmission, remove the top and pour out what was in the case.

600W oil and SAWDUST. The gears were none too good either - probably the reason for the sawdust.

It's never been quite as quiet since. My best luck for a transmission lubricant is STRAIGHT STP. I see now there are some versions of this which have zinc. Probably not the best for a tranny.

Yeah, yeah, I know. STP is not a lubricant...

Joe K

[P.S.]

Originally Posted by Jim Brierley

I'm not sure that others have actually answered your question.

I did.

[Pete]

Originally Posted by 31dan

I am tired of grinding the gears in my 31 truck. Does anyone know a way to solve this problem with the original trans. If not what trans would you recommend

The Mitchell is the easiest way to meet your parameters.

In case you decide to modify, consider a Lenco. You can use the clutch to shift but it is not necessary. Only needed to start and stop.
Also, you can have as many gears as you want, of any ratio.