removing the torque tube on a 1934 ford roadster

[theodore]

I'm a rookie and am looking for advice on how to remove the torque tube on my roadster. Do I need to pull the rear end to do this? If so, how do I go about doing this?

[aussiesteve]

drop the rear axle assy out of the car.
Undo wishbones at torque tube
remove clip and speedo gear from inside front of tube.
unbolt torque tube from rear end.
torque tube should slide off

[hardtimes]

Originally Posted by theodore

I'm a rookie and am looking for advice on how to remove the torque tube on my roadster. Do I need to pull the rear end to do this? If so, how do I go about doing this?

Hey theodore,
If you have access to any old ford car club...best to get some direct help/guidance from members, especially if you are physically challenged.
If your healthy enough to handle tools and have such, i.e.- hyd jack; jack stands and hand tools: start by jacking entire rear end of car up from floor...enough to get STURDY jack stands under frame and under rear axles. Unbolt the univeral joint cover and remove it. Remove the speedo cable by unscrewing it from torque tube. Remove the cotter pins and pins from brake rods so that the rods are loose from rear end. Take shocks loose from rear. It will be best to remove the entire rear end at this time, so take the cotter pins and nuts off of the rear spring U-bolts WITH THE JACK UNDER CENTER SECTION (differential). Remove the jack stands from under both axle covers. The rear end is very cumbersome and HEAVY and it now resting on the hydraulic jack! Slowly...lower the rear end the floor. If you have removed all as stated, pulling rearward on the hyd jack should bring the rear end out from under your car. Be aware that the front of the torque tube will DROP TO THE FLOOR as you pull the rear back....so provide for this ahead of time by placing something under front or tying off front to prevent dead fall..I use pillow/cardboard boxes,etc..whatever it takes (here's where another guy is handy). Once the complete rear is out...you can unbolt the rear of torque tube from center section (may be safety wire to cut too) . Warning...do not do anything with that rear spring...unless/untill you get further instruct/help
One last note: If you are just equiped with jack stands and do as I suggested....make sure that the car IS UP HIGH ENOUGH so that the rear end AND SPRING will clear the car to be pulled backward..or your will be in a pickle at that time. The rear end and spring can be separated...but that is another story that I am not going into with a rook,eh Good luck and keep us updated with questions/results.

BTW..block the front wheels, so that they can not move.

[theodore]

Thanks for you help --I printed your advice and will follow it to completion

[ford38v8]

Theodore, a point that Hardtimes missed:
When the speedo cable is off, remove the turtle, then pull the assembly back far enough to remove the keeper ring and speedo gear from the front of the driveshaft.

[theodore]

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Hardtimes,
Thanks for your help removing the rear end on my 34 roadster. I have it out and need to open up the left side of the differential to replace some broken gears etc. Do I need to do anything with the leaf spring to replace parts in the differential?I realize that the spring can be dangerous, thanks to you, so I plan to get as much advice as I can.Will I need a hub puller to get the left axle out.Thanks for you help.

Theodore

[PeteVS]

Yes, you'll need to remove the spring to open up the differential. Some people prefer to remove all the leaves leaving only the main leaf to remove from the rear. That's a whole new topic. And, yes, you'll need a puller to get the left hub off. You'll probably want to go through the whole rear, brakes etc while you've got it out and open.

[flat-v8]

Great topic thanks! I'll have to do all of this myself real soon.

[mfrk]

If your going to dissasemble the spring make SURE SURE that you use something (BIG C CLAMPS) when you take out the center bolt that spring could KILL yo if you just undid the bolt & happened to have yoyr head over it RESPECT THE POWER OF THE SPRING

[hardtimes]

Originally Posted by theodore

Hardtimes,
Thanks for your help removing the rear end on my 34 roadster. I have it out and need to open up the left side of the differential to replace some broken gears etc. Do I need to do anything with the leaf spring to replace parts in the differential?I realize that the spring can be dangerous, thanks to you, so I plan to get as much advice as I can.Will I need a hub puller to get the left axle out.Thanks for you help.

Theodore

Hey Theodore,
Yeah, you can remove the rear spring in two major ways...one real safe and one relatively safe. But, you must remove the spring from the rearend prior to trying to remove the bells/axles etc. If you dropped the entire rear end out, as we discussed earlier...now for the safest method: SPRING SPREADER..you install it, spread the spring, remove the bolts from spring ends and depending on what you want to do i.e.- you can leave the spring spreader in place OR loosen it and remove it. Second method: two LARGE C clamps drawn up very tight on spring on either side of spring center bolt. Now some people wrap a chain alround spring for extra safety..your choice. But, now you take the spring center bolt nut off ! After that nut is gone...slowly and alternately loosen each C clamp...the power of the spring will disipate quickly and come apart.. If out of the car..this is an easier job...but still dangerous, nonetheless! Now that the spring is gone...use a PROPER puller to take the drums off the axle ends, then the bells and your in....like flint! Put spring back in reverse of removal. Q: Pm me if you like.

[theodore]

Thanks Hardtimes. I'm not familiar with a spring spreader.Is this something I can rent at a automotive store? How hard will it be to reassemble the springs once the job is complete?Also, when reinstalling the torque tube do you have any advice that will help me accomplish this? Your expertise is much appreciated.

[Andy]

It is not easy to use a spreader on a 34 rear. the spring is curved and it requires a dedicated spreader. A normal spreader will not clear the center of the differential and will tend to slip off the ends of the spring as well.
Two methods will work.
Put a clamp on the spring center after removing the rear end as a unit. Replace the center bolt with some all thread for safety and slowly loosen the clamp, and backing off the nuts on the all thread in unison.
The method I use is to put the car up on stands and put floor jacks under the spring ends. As you come up on the jacks, at some point there is no load on the shackles. Remove one and then the other and let the rear down.

[hardtimes]

Originally Posted by theodore

Thanks Hardtimes. I'm not familiar with a spring spreader.Is this something I can rent at a automotive store? How hard will it be to reassemble the springs once the job is complete?Also, when reinstalling the torque tube do you have any advice that will help me accomplish this? Your expertise is much appreciated.

NOTE: while this may seem laborious/boreing for you pros..remember that this guy claims to be a rook.

There are a lot of differing configureations of spring spreaders, some home made some commecially made. NO, I don't think that an auto store will have any of them, as they are for the 'buggy' springs that you are dealing with. I have a high grade spreader, but you would have a big shipping bill for me to loan it to you ! If you want to pay that bill PM me. But, I were you, I'd use the TWO LARGE C clamps method....YOU DO HAVE THE REAR OUT NOW,eh...as it is much easier. It is very easy to reinstall the spring, as you just use the removal process...in reversed order! That is, using a NEW center bolt/nut from supplier..put it into main leaf hole and clamp leaves back tightly together..nut the bolt, cut bolt below tightened nut and peen slightly. BTW- you can buy a spreader from old car suppliers..do a search!

Regarding reinstall torque tube...just remember that when you push the entire unit under the car make sure that the FRONT of the tube is up above the emergency brake CROSS SHAFT, before trying to jack into rear cross member. Without help, I put the jack under pumpkin (think reversed procedure from taking out,eh..always!).
Now , without help this is a little tough, so you have to be patient/careful...square rear/center and jack up slightly on jack and push entire unit forward till drive shaft front hits or nears trans output shaft. Put the u-joint CENTER BELL over front of drive shaft..like you took it out!
Hard part when alone...put trans in neutral allowing output shaft to turn freely and mate with drive shaft by pulling rearend assembly forward on jack! I use a cheap comealong nylon strap anchored to crossmember and to rearend as my partner to save fingers and coax forward motion of several hundred pounds. With little comealong pressure and knowing that I'm very close to engagement...I will turn , by hand, one of rear drums while the comealong along is gently forceing forward. Sometimes, I put both feet (steel toes,eh) on the pumpkin and jar/kick to persuade! When the sweet sound/movement forward happens..you've made major progress Now, if you placed the anti-squeek pad in place on top of spring/ or not, while holding the rearend forward with both feet...now jack the entire unit up into cross member. At this point, it is usually necessary to push spring forward a little with feet or short pry bar to get it started in crossmember. But, beforedoing this, I usually take a chalk and chalk line down back AND bottom of spring in line with CENTER BOLT..as this is the guide that you will use for the head of the ctr bolt to hit the hole in the cross member..so make sure upon assembly that bolt head is squared up with hole This tip will also keep whole unit centered in car/orientation! And, you should have ensured that your spring U BOLTS are in place!
Jack rear all the way up tightly against cross member...MAKING SURE THAT YOU DO NOT JACK ENTIRE CAR OFF OF SAFETY STANDS
I've got to go for lunch/nap now..

[flat-v8]

I haven't used a spring spreader yet, but i just bought one on Ebay for $40.00 Now that I have my rearend out, I probably could get shackles off without a spreader, but I'm gonna wait till it arrives and use it. Not sorry I bought it!