1931 Slant Windshield Cabriolet Has a List!

[Ed in Maine]

I just noticed that this car I have had for a month is lower on the drivers side rear by 1 1/2 in. It is just about level in the front. The rear spring does not appear to be broken. What should I be looking for to correct this problem when I take the car apart this fall? Thanks, Ed

[700rpm]

Is it just the body, or does the frame list also? If its body, it's probably the body blocks. If it's frame, it could be bent frame, broken shackles, or spring shift. When you get the body off, take lots of photos and notes and measurements at various stages of disassembly. The problem likely be readily apparent.

[Tom Wesenberg]

My 29 Tudor leaned to the driver's side. After removing the rearend to replace the clutch the car sets level. You may get by by just loosening and retightening the 4 nuts on the two U bolts. Loosen the nuts, push the body to the passenger side, then snug the passenger side nuts, then the driver's side nuts, then tighten them and install the cotter pins.

[700rpm]

Tom. I don't understand how that would work. Can you expand?

[Tom Wesenberg]

Originally Posted by 700rpm

Tom. I don't understand how that would work. Can you expand?

Sometimes the nuts aren't tightened evenly and the frame can be pulled down more on one side. Or the nuts may have been loosened and the spring center bolt head may not be in the square hole in the crossmember. If the quare hole is worn a bit oversized, then the spring could move a little to one side. With this spring setup it doesn't take much movement to one side, or uneven nut tightening to make one side of the frame set lower.

[Brother A]

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Ed,
My fully restored '31 Cab does the same thing. I just crawled the car to inspect the things mentioned above. The spring is definitely centered but I did notice that there are larger body blocks under the passenger side mounting point. I'm wondering if there is something about the 68-C that requires larger blocks on that side. Please post your findings. I am very interested in finding out if I need to correct this. Thanks

Steve

[roccaas]

My Doctor (who drove a Tudor all through Med School) blames the cant of my 68B to my food allergy.

Whenever I eat, my stomach swells, but it goes away when I stop eating.

He's prescribed a diet. I'm looking for a second opinion. It probably will be "you eat too much, but you'll live long enough to pay your Doctor's bill".

[Brother A]

Let you wife drive once in a while. Maybe it will even itself out.

[RcT]

my car had the same problem when I got it... look at the front leaf spring and check the amount of each leaf showing on both sides of the car is equal. Mine wasn't, and it was a broken bolt at the top of the spring. It had sheared and after dismantling the spring and a new bolt, all is well.

[700rpm]

Originally Posted by Tom Wesenberg

Sometimes the nuts aren't tightened evenly and the frame can be pulled down more on one side. Or the nuts may have been loosened and the spring center bolt head may not be in the square hole in the crossmember. If the quare hole is worn a bit oversized, then the spring could move a little to one side. With this spring setup it doesn't take much movement to one side, or uneven nut tightening to make one side of the frame set lower.

Ah-ha! I misread your original post as U-joint, not U-bolt! Now it makes sense.

[cabrioletgalaxie]

Ed in Maine, this is David in Maine. I've seen a rear end changed and when the rear spring was set into the rear cross member the bolt head didn't fall into the hole and go tightened down anyway.
Also on the front spring if the corners of the top leaf aren't beveled enough the spring won't seat in the front cross member.
David White. [email protected] Email me directly, we'd love to have you join the Pine Tree As in S. Maine, a chapter of MAFCA.

[Brother A]

Originally Posted by Tom Wesenberg

You may get by by just loosening and retightening the 4 nuts on the two U bolts. Loosen the nuts, push the body to the passenger side, then snug the passenger side nuts, then the driver's side nuts, then tighten them and install the cotter pins.

THIS WORKED on my 68-C!!! Thanks Tom

Here's what I did:

I loosened up the U-bolts, grabbed the drivers side rear fender and gave it the best shove I could..... wouldn't budge.

I then put the WD-40 spray straw up as far as I could between the spring and the cross member as and gave it a good spritz on both sides. I also put some on the sides of the cross member where it can into contact with the springs and let this sit a while.

I put a block of wood right behind the cross member attachment point on the drivers side. I put the jack under the block and jacked the car up until the driver's side wheel was just off the ground. I then stood on the rear of the running board just forward of the passenger side fender and hopped up and down a few times. I took the jack down but left slight tension on it and, as per Tom's instructions, I tightened the passenger's side u-bolt. When I released the jack I tightened the driver's side u-bolt and my car was level..... probably for the first time since it was restored.

Ed, I hope that this is helpful to you.

Thanks again Tom. I love the Ford Barn!

[Ed in Maine]

Thank you for all you good suggestions. Ed

[Bruce Adams]

My 68C always leans to port unless I bounce on the passenger side, then its straight for that parking event.

Did "Brother A's" A stay straightened after that "fix"?

[Brother A]

Originally Posted by Bruce Adams

Did "Brother A's" A stay straightened after that "fix"?

I just did it this morning so I won't know for a while. I've tried shoving it over numerous times since I bought it with no change at all. As I thought it over again, I do member hearing a popping sound when I jacked the car up. I thought is was just settling but it may have been the centering pin falling into place. I'll keep you posted on how this fix holds up.

Steve