Easy way to get door hinge pin removed

[Fred K-OR]

Could not find anything in a search of Ford Barn so here is the question. Is there an easy way to get the hinge pins out of the door so that I can install a mirror. They seem to be rusted. Don't want to buy a tool to do this if there is an easy way.

Thanks

[Mike V. Florida]

With out the tool sold buy the vendors you might be able to modify a c-clamp or you are left with a drift pin and hammer.

Here is a thread that might be of help;

https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=35934

[1931 flamingo]

Look at the thread Mike V. has posted and Drill Baby Drill.
Worked for me
Paul in CT

[Terry, NJ]

I tapped mine from the bottom the I squirted PB blaster all over it and gave it some time to work. Then I tapped it out from the bottom. No major problems. I do have some other "issues" with rusty things though. Cowl screws, rear drums, windshield bolts! But Hinge pins were easy!
Terry

[gunmetal blue]

Don't forget to put door in different places if pin is wore it will make it harder to get out. Then do what Terry said also.

[5window]

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Originally Posted by gunmetal blue

Don't forget to put door in different places if pin is wore it will make it harder to get out. Then do what Terry said also.

This is the best advice you will get. First the pins have a knurled area below the head that falls in love with the door hinge and does not want to let go. Then, over time, the hinge has likely worn a "step" into the pin-or even bent it like 3 of mine were- and as long as you are hammering the step against the hinge, you'll keep hammering.

In the long run, drilling might be your best, and least damaging bet. Use a really long bit to clear the roof and be careful of damaging the drip edge. And, measure the diameter of your replacement pin/bolt. I am pretty sure that the original hole was a bit under 0.250", but who know what you have now with wear and time.

[Fred K-OR]

Thanks guys. I will give it a try. Looks like the pin removal tool may not be the answer. So will try other methods.

[700rpm]

Fred,
Check with Rayburn in the club; I think he is gathering tools and the club may have this one.

[Purdy Swoft]

The pin tool didn't work for me. In worse cases with rusty hinges it usually ends up heating the hinge red hot, not good if you need to save the paint. Most of mine were rusty when I started

[Barry B./ Ma.]

Fred, I found it pretty easy by grinding off the head then centering a small drill (5/32?) down from the top about an inch then a long slim punch to drive it out underneath.

[Pilotdave]

I have tried the tool that's available via the vendors. Just today, in fact. The tool comes with 3 pins (short, medium, long) that one uses progressively. I didn't budge the hinge pin at all. Some observations:

1. The tool pins are made of steel that's not hard enough - the short one bent before I gave up .

2. The tool pins sit in a socket in one end of the C-clamp frame. The socket is slightly too large so the pins rock in it, which contributes to issues like #1.

3. The tool pin needs to stay centered on the hinge pin, but that's nearly impossible to achieve as the tool pin rotates against the end of the hinge pin.

Were the pins made of harder steel and sized correctly to the socket (or vice-versa), this tool might be the real deal. As sold, my experience suggests that it's not.

[hardtimes]

Originally Posted by Pilotdave

I have tried the tool that's available via the vendors. Just today, in fact. The tool comes with 3 pins (short, medium, long) that one uses progressively. I didn't budge the hinge pin at all. Some observations:

1. The tool pins are made of steel that's not hard enough - the short one bent before I gave up .

2. The tool pins sit in a socket in one end of the C-clamp frame. The socket is slightly too large so the pins rock in it, which contributes to issues like #1.

3. The tool pin needs to stay centered on the hinge pin, but that's nearly impossible to achieve as the tool pin rotates against the end of the hinge pin.

Were the pins made of harder steel and sized correctly to the socket (or vice-versa), this tool might be the real deal. As sold, my experience suggests that it's not.

Dave, thanks for this report!
My 'new' pins have been sitting in their hindges (30 roadster) for years now, without forcing them in the last bit,,,where the serrated area is under the head. Intuitively, I knew that if I gotem in, I'd most likely NOT getem out easily when I wanted the doors off!
Two questions: one for opinions; what the heck kind of TOOL maker would not HARDEN the removal pins? Can a guy heat/harden the pins himself??
Finally, what do you say/think about putting some 'neverseize' on the pin before final install in the hindges???

[wrndln]

I agree with Pilotdave, the hinge removal tool almost always don't work, unless the hinge pins are loose already. I also bent the pin of the tool when I tried to remove the hinge pins. I resorted to drilling, using a small drill bit first to make sure the hole was center (I used a center punch first to start the drill bit). I then used larger drill bits to almost the size of the pin. After some drilling, about 1/2 or 2/3 of the way through, I was able to punch out the remains of the pins.
Rusty Nelson

[2manycars]

Looking at your avitar, I presume you are working on a coupe, which has hinges like a tudor. The pins are supposed to turn in the solid center section, and are held to the door section at the top with a spline knurle. First check to see if the pin is moving with the door, or if it is stuck in the cowl half of the hinge. If it moves with the door, it will come out with a punch, better from the bottom, up. If it is stuck in the cowl half of the hinge, you will need to heat the hinge to get the pin out, or drill it out, which is difficult to do correctly. Good luck.

[Fred K-OR]

Thanks again guys. Found the one on the drivers side was part way out. It also turned when I put a wrench on it. So at least one many be easy. But the passingers side-that is another story. Will not move! Got some work to do on it.