12V Regulator with 6v Battery?

[Bankston92]

I’ve taken pictures of everything but it isn’t letting me load it from my cell phone. I’ll load them in a few hours when I get back home to a computer.

[Bankston92]

Today we were able to pull the truck out and work on it some more.

We have fuel and spark. It isn't running though.

[Bankston92]

As an extension to my most recent reply, here are a few more pictures. The pictures of the parts are parts that were in the truck when we bought it. We aren't sure if we need them or not so I took a picture to get your opinions.

Thank you! I'll be checking the thread periodically throughout the rest of the evening to hopefully answer or attempt to answer questions.

[cpf240]

Re your pictures in post #23...

It looks like you have both the harness that goes from the generator and starter to the terminal box, as well as the harness from the terminal box to the instrument panel.

[Bankston92]

Originally Posted by cpf240

Re your pictures in post #23...

It looks like you have both the harness that goes from the generator and starter to the terminal box, as well as the harness from the terminal box to the instrument panel.

This may sound dumb but...where is the terminal box...all I see are wires that go from different components through straight to the instrument panel. I don't see any terminal box.

[cpf240]

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Originally Posted by Bankston92

This may sound dumb but...where is the terminal box...all I see are wires that go from different components through straight to the instrument panel. I don't see any terminal box.

Your pictures show the base of the terminal box mounted on the firewall, below the coil. The generator wire connects to one of those long threaded posts, and the battery to the other one. Circuits connected to one side draw directly from the battery, and through the ammeter if connected to the other side. It should have a cover on it.

[Bankston92]

Originally Posted by cpf240

Your pictures show the base of the terminal box mounted on the firewall, below the coil. The generator wire connects to one of those long threaded posts, and the battery to the other one. Circuits connected to one side draw directly from the battery, and through the ammeter if connected to the other side. It should have a cover on it.

Got it, it does have a cover. I had taken it off to better see what was going in and out. I was under the assumption that a terminal box would have wires that were mounted in there. All it is, is a box where wires pass through to go to the instrument panel?

Wait a minute, cables are supposed to be connected to those threaded posts that the terminal box cover screws in to?

[Keith True]

What you have been calling a regulator is a starter solonoid.I kind of suspected that,the battery cable would not be connected to a regulator like you said.You have wimpy little 12 volt cables on it,6 volts will NOT turn that engine over like it should with those cables.Those threaded posts in the terminal box are the terminals the wires hook to.

[cpf240]

Originally Posted by Bankston92

...
Wait a minute, cables are supposed to be connected to those threaded posts that the terminal box cover screws in to?

They are just a place to connect the wires, they don't go anywhere themselves.

For example, that long cable you have in the bag, with the yellow wires... the flag terminals would go to the two threaded posts in the terminal box, then one wire goes to the battery terminal on the switch on top of the starter, and the other goes to the cutout on the generator.

Then, two wires from the other harness you have go to those same threaded posts, and on through to the instrument panel, going to the ammeter. The other wires are for the coil and ignition switch. Take a look at the wiring diagram, and it should show the terminal box and its connections.

[Mike V. Florida]

Now we are getting somewhere. Thanks for the pics.

Yes the "regulator" is a starter solenoid.

Most people have poor luck with the wireless plate that you are using. The main problem is a poor connection between the brass on the bottom plate and the bent metal on the top plate giving intermittent or lower voltage to the points (It does sound like your problem does it not?).

And yes, cables are supposed to be connected to those threaded posts that the terminal box cover screws into. Those screws are insulated from the firewall and can be used to check voltages later on.

How have you checked the timing?

[Bankston92]

Originally Posted by Mike V. Florida

Now we are getting somewhere. Thanks for the pics.

Yes the "regulator" is a starter solenoid.

Most people have poor luck with the wireless plate that you are using. The main problem is a poor connection between the brass on the bottom plate and the bent metal on the top plate giving intermittent or lower voltage to the points (It does sound like your problem does it not?).

And yes, cables are supposed to be connected to those threaded posts that the terminal box cover screws into. Those screws are insulated from the firewall and can be used to check voltages later on.

How have you checked the timing?

Yes, I believe so. We are getting spark at the plugs though and i verified that when we are firing on #1 the rotor is pointed to the 4 o clock position. I'll have to change those wires next time I get up to see the truck. Something tells me that those being in the wrong position could cause a problem?

The person we bought the truck from swears up n down it runs but that was quite some time ago. I'm not sure how or if that is even possible given the information in the pictures you guys see.

Thanks again for all the help.

[SuperDave]

Originally Posted by Bankston92

Hello all!

My father and I recently purchased a 1929 Model A Pickup.

Needless to say it needs some TLC.

I know this may seem like a crazy question but we are having problems getting the truck started.

I noticed we have a 12v voltage regulator but the truck isn't converted to a 12v system from what I can tell. We still use a 6v battery.

We have timed the distributor, I have checked voltage to read 6.6v and then after the condenser it reads 3.3v but we aren't getting spark.

Could the 12v voltage regulator be causing issues with the ignition electrical?

Thanks for your time! Looking forward to learning and getting this truck up n running.

You say there is 3.3 volts after the condenser. Is that with the points closed? If so, perhaps your points are oxidized and need filed or replaced. car shoild start and run fine with no generator at all.

[Keith True]

I'm trying to figure how you are measuring voltage after the condenser.The condenser is connected to the points with one wire,there is no before and after.Are you calling the coil the condenser?

[redmodelt]

Ok my suggestion is to order all new wiring including the pop out switch and correct battery cables and start fresh. I see a lot of fire hazards in what's there now. Get rid of that starter solenoid and all the wiring attached to it. Then get rid of the wireless plate and put the right stuff even if it's the modern points style. While you are ordering parts get a copy of Les repair manual.
Get everything back to basic how it came from the factory then go from there. All that extra wiring reminds me of a Friend (RIP) of mine, his trucks, only he knew what all the stuff he added over the years was and how it was fitted. (both his T and 70's diesel)

[Tom Wesenberg]

You have the worst possible connection from the switch to the points. That top plate with a brass rubbing strap is trouble. First off look how close the brass strap is to touching the top plate. I've had to use my Dremel to grind away metal from the top plate to give it good clearance on a customer's car.