Original Coupe

[30A]

What is the best way to treat Ford original paint finish and surface rust?

Best way to treat original interior and floor mats, too?

I probably should post these questions separately. Thx Steve

[Shadetree]

If it was my car I wouldn't touch it other than an occasonal wax job! What a gorgeous car! The originality gives it character and it is only original once.

[30A]

Thanks, just wanting to do right by her.

[DavidG]

What a super duper car!

Do not use any wax that requires rubbing as that will speed up the loss of the original paint. As for the floor mat, it looks like it could use a good cleaning with a soft cloth dampened in soapy water following by one of the non-organic rubber preservative sprays.

[30A]

Thanks! I want to preserve what's there.

[JM 35 Sedan]

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That car is soooo nice! I don't really know how or what to advise you to do to keep it that way other than lots of TLC and keep it in environmentally controlled garage space to prevent/reduce deterioration.

[Robert Dip]

This is a most gorgeous car and a 5W to boot. You must definitely have fun re-vitalizing the original paint, and here is how I am doing mine. It is amazing how the original paint holds up. To repaint the car would be turn it into ‘another nice coupe’, so for a while, maybe a long while, bring back to life what is there. I have the very same situation with my ’35 W, and here is what I am doing…..places where the original paint is still good, wet sand with 1000 – 1500 paper…very gently and go slow. When spots of rust appear, knock down the worst crud. It may bring it to the bare ‘rusty’ metal, but it’s there anyway. The idea here is to have a flat surface to match the thickness of the original paint. With the fine sandpaper, act as if the surface rust parts blends in with the painted area. It is SLOW work, but a work of love, and you can only do a small area at a time. The next step is to take a medium compound to remove the remaining oxide and sanding marks. Then move on to a finer compound before waxing. By the way, I never use an electric buffer to polish…not enough paint left to do this….I do it all by hand. In some areas, you may be down to the primer….that’s ok….polish this too like the paint. Experiment a bit in areas that are not as important….you will learn quickly what works and what does not. The finish is now call ‘patina’, and don’t we all love these ole Fords in this state. PS…great exercise to keep you in shape.
Robert

[TonyM]

Originally Posted by DavidG

What a super duper car!

.

Took the words right out of my mouth.

TM

[30A]

Thanks! All help is appreciated.

[30A]

Robert, your input is appreciated.

[Robert Dip]

30A....my pleasure. Need to clarify one thing, where the paint is fairly good, just use fine compound by hand...no sanding necessary.....Enjoy.....Robert

[Tinker]

i guess a good way to knock any rust but not harm the paint is clr. Know i have not tried this and not sure how lacquer will react.

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/s...d.php?t=520460

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/s...&highlight=clr

[30A]

Many thanks, Steve

[Firepower flyer]

WOW that car is nice!!!Whats the story behind it?
Joe

[bmwillia]

Man what a nice car!

[Straightpipes]

This one came out of a barn after resting for nearly 50 years. I just went over it lightly with rubbing compound to take the barn crud off.

[30A]

Originally Posted by Firepower flyer

WOW that car is nice!!!Whats the story behind it?
Joe

Thanks, the story is a fellow in Minnesota purchased the car when he was 18 (he is now 78) and planned to put an Olds engine it. One thing or another got him sidetracked...marriage, kids, work, etc...it sat in his barn for 54 years. Fortunately he never got around to putting that motor in it. I bought it in December from a fellow Barner, John Alinder who purchased it from him 6 years ago. John changed the gas tank and blew out the gas lines and got her running. Everything works including the dome light. I have driven it about 50 miles before putting her up on the lift for maintenance. All the fluids have been drained and the trans oil was like sludge. One of the rear shocks is locked up and in the process of getting them rebuilt. Some surface rust but no holes what so ever. I was amazed at the original floor pans with only surface rust. No rust in the usual areas like where the running boards meet the fenders, etc.

The car has 35,000 original miles and has few bumps and dings but overall in great shape with near perfect grill, fenders, etc. I am honored to be its caretaker for the time being and want to do the right things for her.

I would like to know the best way to remove and treat the surface rust underneath. Phosphoric acid, Kroil, oil? I would like to dust off the loose rust, treat it in some way and not harm what little paint is left underneath and in the trunk.

[fortyfords]

My forty ford was in the same condition, to save the seats, I always had a heavy navajo looking blanket covering the front seat at least. I never wore through the original material for the 30k miles that I put on it. The paint, I sprayed Pledge furniture polish on it. I tried to treat any rusted area under the car with DP-90 after I cleaned off most of the rust and in no time it looked it very original. I had spots on the hood where the heat from the motor made the paint just fall off. I finally had to spray some black DP-90 on those spots. This is what I did, good luck as you have a super car.

[30A]

Originally Posted by fortyfords

My forty ford was in the same condition, to save the seats, I always had a heavy navajo looking blanket covering the front seat at least. I never wore through the original material for the 30k miles that I put on it. The paint, I sprayed Pledge furniture polish on it. I tried to treat any rusted area under the car with DP-90 after I cleaned off most of the rust and in no time it looked it very original. I had spots on the hood where the heat from the motor made the paint just fall off. I finally had to spray some black DP-90 on those spots. This is what I did, good luck as you have a super car.

Your car is awesome!!! Thanks for the input!

[phartman]

First, do no harm....

What a beautiful car.

It's perfect the way it is. In the course of trying to repair it, don't muck it up. As a former museum curator, I would advise that anything you do, make certain it is reversable. The car is worth far more the way it stands.

[jimTN]

That is a great car. Besides cleaning it up, would be neat to collect 34 accessories for it. Better keep it under strong lock and key and constant surveillance, the butchers would love to cut it up, put a garbage truck motor in there and paint it some goofy easter egg color.

[L78CHEVELLE]

I look for and own unrestored '40 Fords. What I did for the majority of the original paint cars is go over the car with a clay bar and detailer spray. Wash the car and dry it off. Then go over the car with a paint cleaner that goes on and comes off without drying. Wash the car and dry it. Then apply polish to feed the paint, and take it off after it dries. Then I wax the car. I use major brand products like Mcguiar's that makes a kit with the products I mentioned. This all takes about three to four days to do, and all by hand. On my interior I use Tuff Stuff interior cleaner that has been around since the '60s. Mask off your glass and interior metal trim. Then spray a section of the head liner or the entire bottom of the seat at one time to keep from having spots or lines. Let it foam and do its thing. Then take cotton towels and wipe down the section you sprayed. Repeat this for the entire interior. Time consuming and a lot of hand work, but I have done this on at least 7 cars and it works. For under the car I clean the car as best I can and spray the surface areas with a rust converter spray that kills rust and turns it black. This makes the surface rust areas look correct for an unrestored car.

[30A]

Originally Posted by L78CHEVELLE

I look for and own unrestored '40 Fords. What I did for the majority of the original paint cars is go over the car with a clay bar and detailer spray. Wash the car and dry it off. Then go over the car with a paint cleaner that goes on and comes off without drying. Wash the car and dry it. Then apply polish to feed the paint, and take it off after it dries. Then I wax the car. I use major brand products like Mcguiar's that makes a kit with the products I mentioned. This all takes about three to four days to do, and all by hand. On my interior I use Tuff Stuff interior cleaner that has been around since the '60s. Mask off your glass and interior metal trim. Then spray a section of the head liner or the entire bottom of the seat at one time to keep from having spots or lines. Let it foam and do its thing. Then take cotton towels and wipe down the section you sprayed. Repeat this for the entire interior. Time consuming and a lot of hand work, but I have done this on at least 7 cars and it works. For under the car I clean the car as best I can and spray the surface areas with a rust converter spray that kills rust and turns it black. This makes the surface rust areas look correct for an unrestored car.

The rust converter has phosphoric acid (I think) and it does a good job. I experimented with it on another car and works well. I appreciate your input on the interior too. I don'y want to screw anything up! Many thanks!

[Firepower flyer]

As far as the under side goes I have heard and read good things about Gibbs oil.It comes in a spray can and would preserve whats there without changing any of the orginality of the car.Once again that thing is awesome!!Way neater than any of the over restored stuff out there.
Joe

[Vanspeed]

How on earth were you able to get that coupe! I am very envious of you, my dream car. I really can't say enough about it, I am speechless.

[30A]

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Originally Posted by Firepower flyer

As far as the under side goes I have heard and read good things about Gibbs oil.It comes in a spray can and would preserve whats there without changing any of the orginality of the car.Once again that thing is awesome!!Way neater than any of the over restored stuff out there.
Joe

I checked out the Gibbs oil online and seems like good stuff. Thanks!

The positive feedback is appreciated. I will take good care of her!

[30A]

Originally Posted by Vanspeed

How on earth were you able to get that coupe! I am very envious of you, my dream car. I really can't say enough about it, I am speechless.

I was lucky! I saw it on Ford Barn one morning and flew up there to check it out and went for a test drive. I was in love! The guy was selling it because he had purchased a 34 Roadster (restored) and his wife was making him get rid of one. He didn't want to sell it but he was trying to keep the boss happy!

You guys are making me appreciate the car even more. Thanks!

[Chris in MA]

What a nice car. My first thought was WOW! And what is the story behind it...

ChrisInMA (now NH)

[30A]

Originally Posted by fortyfords

My forty ford was in the same condition, to save the seats, I always had a heavy navajo looking blanket covering the front seat at least. I never wore through the original material for the 30k miles that I put on it. The paint, I sprayed Pledge furniture polish on it. I tried to treat any rusted area under the car with DP-90 after I cleaned off most of the rust and in no time it looked it very original. I had spots on the hood where the heat from the motor made the paint just fall off. I finally had to spray some black DP-90 on those spots. This is what I did, good luck as you have a super car.

Your car looks great! The Navajo blanket is a good solution to protect the original upholstery. I was thinking of buying a new floor mat to minimize wear on the original one. I am not familiar with DP-90 but will check it out.

Thanks, Steve

[meric42]

One of the best products you can get to protect the patina of an old car is Nyalic and it is US made too. Check out their website:

http://www.nyalic.com/automotive/

[FL&WVMIKE]

What a great car ! Would love to be the owner of that !
If it had more surface rust, GIBBS OIL would bring out hidden paint, but I don't think that you need that.
You might try TURTLE WAX ICE. It does not leave a white residue in the flaws. That's what I use on my original paint, but with scars, unrestored cars.
MIKE

[my4dv8]

How many years and stories are there behind the character your car has earned? Listen to the above suggestions and take on board what is said , but enjoy your ride .

[Roadster5040]

I agree 100 percent with everything said. I get to enjoy car every weekend as
Steve is my good friend. The pictures do not do the car Justice it is such a great find.

[fortyfords]

A lot of great suggestions here, many I never heard of but sound good. Waxing my car didn't do any good until I went over the paint with rubbing compound and polish and then a wax but it would not stay nice very long if it sat out very much. I probably did drive it to much but I sure enjoyed getting out and going places with it. Thanks for the compliment on my old forty, someone in Mich. owns it now, wish I could get in touch with him.

[barnfind08]

I know john alinder and a side note to the story when john was trying to buy the car from the original owner he did not want to sell, but he was worried to drive the car with the grandkids with the oldtires on it so john offered a set of tires to him for free and if he was to sell the car to him in the future he had his tires back. Not to bad of a idea and it worked.

[30A]

Originally Posted by barnfind08

I know john alinder and a side note to the story when john was trying to buy the car from the original owner he did not want to sell, but he was worried to drive the car with the grandkids with the oldtires on it so john offered a set of tires to him for free and if he was to sell the car to him in the future he had his tires back. Not to bad of a idea and it worked.

Great story and did not know that. I would like to know more about the original owner. Thanks, Steve

[va t]

You have a beautiful, genuine Ford coupe. Glad it is in hands of someone who appreciates its original condition. For years I have treated chassis and underbody with a mixture of engine oil, grease, penetrating oil, and roofing tar (for color) thinned with lacquer thinner and retarder just enough for it to be barely sprayable with container elevated. It never hardens, seeps into double panels, is too messy for some. Treatment is good for lots of peace of mind. And if you ever want rid of it, just pressure wash it off.

[VeryTangled]

Sweet! Awesome finish. It's your car but the less you do now, the less you may regret in the future. You always have tomorrow to pretty it up, as if it's not gorgeous now!

I've learned to be very gentle with the rubber floor mat. With age it becomes less flexible and easier to tear. It may be best to just put something new over it.

JM35Sedan has a couple of cars with original paint and interior, so he can give sound advice.

As she sits you're practically guaranteed Rouge awards at the V8 club meets.

-VT/Jeff

[Russ/40]

What an amazing time capsule.

[30A]

Thanks guys!
Some of my (non car) friends don't appreciate it and see it as just an old car and ask "when are you going to paint it"? I tell I am leaving the car just like it is! I appreciate your input in preserving the car. Many thanks, Steve

[41panelmark]

Very nice, only original once.

[30A]

Agree!
I will send more pics when I can.
Thx Steve