Something wrong

[René W]

The A is losing power,i thought it had to do with the ignition so i checked everything and reset the timing but still no power.
At idling it looks like it is running on 3 cillinders,all 4 have a spark.
Put new plugs in and made a short test drive,pulled the plugs and number 3 was still new,checked it but there was a good spark.
I don't have a compression testergauge but i put my thumb on the plug holes and numberb 3 and 4 have little compression,1and 2 have good compression.
So there is something serious wrong,gonna make an appointment with the model A specialist and make my problem his problem........fingers crossed
René

[1931 flamingo]

Sticking valve(s)??
Paul in CT

[René W]

No,can see them moving

[Jacksonlll]

Check the torque on your head bolts. May be too late if the gasket has let go.

[René W]

There is no cooling fluid in the oil or oil in the cooling.
The head has to come off to see whats wrong.
I am afraid there's a hole in the pistons,i have lend the A to my son in law and i think he has driving it with the spark at full retard................

[Tom Wesenberg]

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Most likely a blown head gasket. Bring either 3 or 4 to top dead center on firing, then blow compressed air down that spark plug hole, and see if you hear the air coming out the other cylinder.

[JDupuis]

Check your distributer body (cap). They have a tendency to get an internal short. Meaning you could be firing two spark plugs at the same time. I've had this happen a few times. An Ohms tester will give you the answer. Good luck René. Jeff

[1930-Pickup]

René- If you want to do a quick diagnostic test...

Remove all the spark plugs. Blow some compressed air into a cylinder through the spark plug hole (set the valves to the closed position for each cylinder that you test). A rubber-tipped air blow gun that covers the entire spark plug hole works best for this test, or improvise.

If air comes out of the neighboring spark plug hole, there's a good chance that it's a blown head gasket (like what Tom said). If a lot of air comes out of the oil fill tube, then a hole in the piston is possible. If air rushes to the intake or exhaust manifolds, then its a burned or sticking valve.

If your son-in-law did cause this problem, and he is still of this Earth, then you sir are a much better man than I.

Veel geluk
Alex

[SeaSlugs]

Originally Posted by 1930-Pickup

René- If you want to do a quick diagnostic test...

Remove all the spark plugs. Blow some compressed air into a cylinder through the spark plug hole (set the valves to the closed position for each cylinder that you test). A rubber-tipped air blow gun that covers the entire spark plug hole works best for this test, or improvise.

If air comes out of the neighboring spark plug hole, there's a good chance that it's a blown head gasket (like what Tom said). If a lot of air comes out of the oil fill tube, then a hole in the piston is possible. If air rushes to the intake or exhaust manifolds, then its a burned or sticking valve.

If your son-in-law did cause this problem, and he is still of this Earth, then you sir are a much better man than I.

Veel geluk
Alex

also remove the radiator cap - if water shoots out the headgasket is bad. Do this test FIRST before removing the head. Also make sure its in 3rd gear and parking brake fully set. And make sure engine is TDC on piston 3 and then 4 (or vice versa - as stated above you want both valves fully closed.)

[René W]

Originally Posted by 1930-Pickup

René-

If your son-in-law did cause this problem, and he is still of this Earth, then you sir are a much better man than I.

Veel geluk
Alex

I am not sure he caused it.......and in Holland there are different GUN-laws...

Thanks all for the tips but i'll leave it to the specialist....if the head gasket is blown,or the piston is damaged or the valves are burned the head has to come of anyway and due to my medical condition i am not able to do it myself.
I will let you know whats wrong.
René

[pooch]

Sounds familiar.

Son in law drives car, it comes back defective.

Never loan your girlfriend or your chainsaw, they always come back the same way...... fucked.

[Tony Hillyard]

René,

Is it possible to get some good photographs of the repair and the result of the problem. I think many on Fordbarn would be interested to see the pictures.

Tony, Pleines oeuvres, France

[juke joint johnny]

What's your exhaust manifold like? Many of them are warped!!!
Do the little collars line up between the block and the manifold ? often they are missing
Number 4 drops down and causes a power loss

[René W]

The exhaust manifold is good,no leaks and collars are in.
The manifolds are new and machined bolted together as it should.
I just deliverd the A at the specialist garage,they gonna look into the problem as soon as they have time,then give me a call what's wrong.
If it is possible i will take pictures but don't hold your breath..........
René

[tuneman]

Low compression between back 2 cyl ,my experence tells me bad head gasket!!!

[René W]

Well....the mechanic did all the tests,looked with a camera into the cillinders but could not find a problem,tomorrow they gonna pull the head........i'll wait and see

[BILL WILLIAMSON]

Originally Posted by René W

Well....the mechanic did all the tests,looked with a camera into the cillinders but could not find a problem,tomorrow they gonna pull the head........i'll wait and see

Rene',
If it's a gasket leak between #3 & #4, after the head is off, you'll see circular "etchings" in the walls, adjacent to the gasket leak area!
First warning of a leak there, is a 2 cylinder miss, for a few seconds, after start up & "some" abnormal water loss.
A QUICK check for water in the oil: Hold a drop of oil on the dipstick, put a match under it, a nice yellow FLARE= NO WATER----A yellow FLARE, that spits out like a SPARKLER= WATER in the oil.---I tole you I wuz GOOD! BUT nobody believes me--LOL
Bill Beenthere

[René W]

Allright......head gasket is blown,everything else looks okay.
Ordered new gaskets,we do a total service at the same time,adjusting valves,clean out the oil pan etcetera.
If i am right the torque for head studs is 55lbs...valve gap intake and exhaust both 0.015 correct me if i am wrong

[Tony Hillyard]

Well done René,

You can breathe again!

[Tom Wesenberg]

I always use the copper head gasket and spray both sides with Copper Coat.
Be sure to torque in at least 3 or 4 steps, like 20, 35, 45, 55 lbs. and be sure to do several retorques after running the engine.

[700rpm]

Originally Posted by Tom Wesenberg

I always use the copper head gasket and spray both sides with Copper Coat.
Be sure to torque in at least 3 or 4 steps, like 20, 35, 45, 55 lbs. and be sure to do several retorques after running the engine.

Also be certain to torque in the proper sequence, as described in the Service Bulletins or many other sources.

[René W]

Mechanics at work

[GMCPASO]

They may be moving but are they closing? Compression test to see. If not that, then it is a blown gasket.

[René W]

All is well again,gasket was blown and is replaced,everything else is checked,oil pan is cleaned out and new oil,new coolant and at the same time the upper water neck replaced because the old one was too thin at one side(0.5 mm).
Yesterday i drove it about 70 km trip and no more problems......Happy again.

[Tony Hillyard]

Great news, now enjoy the spring... when it comes.

[René W]

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Originally Posted by Tony Hillyard

Great news, now enjoy the spring... when it comes.

Winter,spring,summer or fall..............the model A drives it all....
Only when it is very cold it stays at home,the model A can stand the cold but i don't.......no Heather and a bit drafty make me take a modern car.....oh well,not very modern but a 1985 Citroën Visa.....

[WHN]

Head gasket needing to be replaced is really not uncommon. If you own a Model A long enough, it’s going to happen.

Now that the head is off. I would recommend that you have your mechanic check the head to make sure it is true, (flat). Easier now than finding a leak after you get it back together.

Enjoy.

[René W]

Originally Posted by WHN

Head gasket needing to be replaced is really not uncommon. If you own a Model A long enough, it’s going to happen.

Now that the head is off. I would recommend that you have your mechanic check the head to make sure it is true, (flat). Easier now than finding a leak after you get it back together.

Enjoy.

post #24...........
the head was true

[Jacksonlll]

Be sure to retorted several times. The torque will fall off.

[3.6rs]

Originally Posted by pooch

Sounds familiar.

Son in law drives car, it comes back defective.

Never loan your girlfriend or your chainsaw, they always come back the same way...... fucked.

The best of this week !!!

[3.6rs]

Originally Posted by Tony Hillyard

Great news, now enjoy the spring... when it comes.

IF it comes ...

[Brendan]

Originally Posted by René W

There is no cooling fluid in the oil or oil in the cooling.
The head has to come off to see whats wrong.
I am afraid there's a hole in the pistons,i have lend the A to my son in law and i think he has driving it with the spark at full retard................

i lost compression on 3 and 4, the head gasket let go between them

[Brendan]

Originally Posted by René W

Mechanics at work

your lucky it took me 3 weeks to get the head off my A

[WHN]

Originally Posted by Brendan

your lucky it took me 3 weeks to get the head off my A

Did you try loosing all the head nuts and than hitting the starter?

Do not remove the head nuts until head is loose.

Works for us. Enjoy.

[Bill Cilker]

Rene
If you have original style valves with the mushroomed stems, then 15 thousands should be fine. If you have adjustable valve tappets with modern valves, then I would use I-.10 & E-.13.

[Bill Cilker]

Rene
If you have original style valves with the mushroomed stems, then 15 thousands should be fine. If you have adjustable valve tappets with modern valves, then I would use I-.10 & E-.13.

[burner31]

Originally Posted by BILL WILLIAMSON

Rene',
If it's a gasket leak between #3 & #4, after the head is off, you'll see circular "etchings" in the walls, adjacent to the gasket leak area!
First warning of a leak there, is a 2 cylinder miss, for a few seconds, after start up & "some" abnormal water loss.
A QUICK check for water in the oil: Hold a drop of oil on the dipstick, put a match under it, a nice yellow FLARE= NO WATER----A yellow FLARE, that spits out like a SPARKLER= WATER in the oil.---I tole you I wuz GOOD! BUT nobody believes me--LOL
Bill Beenthere

Nice trick Bill, going to try it just to see, soon as I find the time to get back out to the garage, hopfully this weekend.
(Business is good, lot's of work)

[burner31]

Originally Posted by 700rpm

Also be certain to torque in the proper sequence, as described in the Service Bulletins or many other sources.

Just a FYI