Original 1940 fuel sender new tank

[Old Magnet]

The senders are mounted in a recessed area of the tank. Mounting elsewhere could lead to clearance problems. More butchery!!!!!!

[rich b]

Originally Posted by 19Fordy

rich b: That's a great idea. Please clarify one question.
After you use have the adapter ring inserted inside the tank and the sending unit screwed to the adapter ring and the sewing thread removed, what prevents the adapter ring from falling into the tank when you have to remove the sending unit?

Is the adapter ring held in place inside the tank by a different set of screws than those used to secure the sending unit in place? Or, is the adapter ring held in place with the original 6 screws that secured the OEM sending unit? If so, this means the adapter ring would have to be drilled and tapped for it's own set of 6 screws so that the sending unit could be secured to the adapter ring inside the tank. The end result would be that the OEM sending unit would slipped thru the hole, indexed and be screwed to a set of 6 new threaded holes in the adapter ring.

The adapter ring is held in place by the same six screws that retain the sending unit; if you have to remove the sending unit, the adapter ring will of course fall into the tank and being steel is easily picked out with a magnet.

The idea of another set of six holes being drilled, tapped, and somehow countersunk in the tank's thin sheet metal would hold the ring in place if the sender was removed; but just over complicates a simple deal.

Better idea; if you really did not want the ring to fall in and tank was new or purged, you could drill a couple extra holes and plug weld the adapter ring in place.

[19Fordy]

Yes, plug welding would work on a new tank. If done right, there will be no butchery. There's no harm in skillfully modifying the tank opening to make it work in your situation where you still have an 0EM sending unit and gas gauge in good, usable working condition.

[Pete pa]

Another thing I forgot to mention is the baffle inside the tank will interfere with the swing of the original sender float arm, it will hit the baffle and give a false reading, so you could run out of gas when the gauge shows about half a tank. So even an adaptor will not solve that issue. It came down to using a junk repop sender that everyone knows don't work, cut the top of the new tank open and remove enough of the baffle so the arm can complete its travel, then make an adaptor to fit my sender and weld it all back together and seal it, or repair my original tank and use compatible reliable Ford parts.

[Old Magnet]

All that welding destroys the alloy coating on the steel and now you will have corrosion problems.
Everyone has those stamped steel tanks for sale but this outfit will custom make your tank with 304ss and the sender mounting of your choice. Sorry I don't have any pricing information.
https://www.rockvalleyantiqueautopar..._bro_no_43.pdf

[19Fordy]

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Original gas tanks were made of tern plate steel which was very resistant to corrosion.
Here's some interesting reading about this on Fordbarn.
https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?p=795280

Looks like that Rock Valley outfit makes some nice tanks.

[40ford]

Just wondering if this will work?

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/bdr-40-9003

[19Fordy]

WOW! For $56 it better work!!!! Prices today are going crazy.

[tubman]

Originally Posted by 19Fordy

WOW! For $56 it better work!!!! Prices today are going crazy.

If this is typical, old car enthusiasts will have to return to their roots, making your own parts or adapting discarded parts from other sources. The day of "1-800-car-part" will be done.

Not that that would be a bad thing.

[Ggmac]

Originally Posted by Pete pa

Another thing I forgot to mention is the baffle inside the tank will interfere with the swing of the original sender float arm, it will hit the baffle and give a false reading, so you could run out of gas when the gauge shows about half a tank. So even an adaptor will not solve that issue. It came down to using a junk repop sender that everyone knows don't work, cut the top of the new tank open and remove enough of the baffle so the arm can complete its travel, then make an adaptor to fit my sender and weld it all back together and seal it, or repair my original tank and use compatible reliable Ford parts.

It is easier to remove the original gauge , disassemble, reassemble with aftermarket or 80s ford gauge and use a matching sender . Ive done it recently with a 41 and 46 tudor . Even used the original faceplate and needle . Mine is 12 volt neg ground.