The Ford Barn

wahoo54 · 05-05-2019, 05:43 PM

I have a 1938 2 door with the 60 HP flat head V8 and it's been stuttering when I accellerate, drops off, and if I push it it'll backfire through the carb. I thought I'd investigate what was under the coil so I took it off the top of the distributer. Put it right back on and now have no spark. What am I doing wrong? I took it off and made sure to try my best to center it on the contact but it's really a bear to get down there to see what you're doing. I'm new to Fords so any help would be much appreciated.

Jerry

petehoovie · 05-05-2019, 06:44 PM

Possibly the carbon brush (bottom center of coil) dropped/fell off when you removed the coil....

wahoo54 · 05-05-2019, 08:48 PM

There was a carbon brush on a spring that you could push up and down and it was in place. Is there a 2nd piece that can fall out? Thanks!

petehoovie · 05-05-2019, 08:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wahoo54

Is there a 2nd piece that can fall out? Thanks!

No, no 2nd piece. Try removing and reinstalling the coil again....

wahoo54 · 05-05-2019, 09:03 PM

I've removed it three times now and finally removed the plug wire so I could use a mirror to see if I was getting the copper coil onto it's contact. Looks like it is but when I put her back together, nothing. No spark. I'm scratching my head on this one.

4dFord/SC · 05-05-2019, 09:06 PM

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Is power getting to the coil (i.e., with the ignition switch on, is the ignition wire hot)?

petehoovie · 05-05-2019, 09:43 PM

Maybe the wire to the coil broke at its connector to the coil because of movement....

wahoo54 · 05-05-2019, 10:14 PM

Well shoot. I only find 3 volts there. I'll have to investigate further tomorrow. Thanks for the advice!

Jerry

petehoovie · 05-06-2019, 01:19 AM

If the points are closed you will measure 3 - 4 volts at the coil....

flatheadmurre · 05-06-2019, 05:36 AM

If the condensor was weak from start...messing around with it removing the coil may have had it finally give up...
With 3 volt at coil you can tell points are closing and coil has power...so before turning every stone over again i would check the condensor...just my 2c

Jembow · 05-06-2019, 09:12 AM

If the coil & condenser check out, take the unit off - there's not much you can do standing on your head under the hood. You only need to click off the caps, disconnect the vacuum line and undo 2 bolts. The unit is driven by a tongue that registers with a slot in the camshaft. That's offset to make sure you don't fit it 180 degrees out, so note its position before you twiddle it about. With the distributor on the bench you can check the points for condition (wear, broken springs, poor tension) & gap. Check the rotor arm for signs of tracking. Or you could just send the whole thing to someone like Bubba's Ignition and get a professional overhaul, if it looks very tired.

wahoo54 · 05-06-2019, 07:32 PM

Thanks Pethoovie.
Flatheadmurre, I agree with you and ordered one. Should have it Thursday. Thanks!
Jembow, so my distributor is a 2 bolt? Speedway motors has a 3 bolt electronic distributor but do sell an adapter to convert it to 2 bolt. Have any of you done this? Seems like the way to go to get longer service. Man I'd hate to have to change points on the side of the road.

Jerry

wahoo54 · 05-09-2019, 11:24 PM

Jembow, so my distributor is a 2 bolt? Speedway motors has a 3 bolt electronic distributor but do sell an adapter to convert it to 2 bolt. Have any of you done this? Seems like the way to go to get longer service. Man I'd hate to have to change points on the side of the road.

Jerry

Mart · 05-10-2019, 03:14 AM

I can't speak with authority, but your distributor is not what people normally refer to as a two bolt. Again, not sure, but I think it is a three bolt distributor ("diver's helmet") but only uses two bolts to hold it on the V8-60.

Can any V8-60ers confirm?

jimTN · 05-10-2019, 04:08 PM

What you have is a very dependable dist. and it does sound like a bad condensor.

wahoo54 · 05-10-2019, 07:20 PM

Thanks Mart!

wahoo54 · 05-10-2019, 07:20 PM

Thanks JimTN!

wahoo54 · 05-10-2019, 07:21 PM

Have any of you used the electronic ignition?

Jembow · 05-11-2019, 02:51 AM

I had problems getting my divers helmet to rev over 3000rpm, and you need to rev a 60 - partly cos its power is all up the top end and partly cos the factory put such a high rear axle in. So I am running a Stromberg E-fire (they sent me an adaptor but it wasn't needed, bolted straight on, 2 bolts). So far, so good, after about 1000miles, runs right up the rev range. Only problem is cold starting (although I may have a carb problem) - it seems you need a strong battery 'cos the starter robs current from the ignition. I may rig a second battery direct to the ignition for testing and see if it fires straight up.

You won't need to change points at the side of the road but if the module fails, you'll be going home on a flatbed!

If changing from the Ford coil, you need to bypass the resistor (on the inside of the firewall beside the fuse).

BTW, anyone else have problems with the software here? Every time I post a reply, I find I have been timed out and lose everything I typed - I now copy the text, log back in and paste my response.

flatheadmurre · 05-11-2019, 04:07 AM

The points set is what makes the difference when you want to rev them old distributors...cheap points with weak springs and you got a rev limiter when the points float.
That little points scale to check the tension at the points is a very usefull simple thing to verify the quality of the installed points...

05-05-2019, 05:43 PM	#1
wahoo54 Member Join Date: Apr 2019 Posts: 51	1938 Ford 2 door hump back distributor problems I have a 1938 2 door with the 60 HP flat head V8 and it's been stuttering when I accellerate, drops off, and if I push it it'll backfire through the carb. I thought I'd investigate what was under the coil so I took it off the top of the distributer. Put it right back on and now have no spark. What am I doing wrong? I took it off and made sure to try my best to center it on the contact but it's really a bear to get down there to see what you're doing. I'm new to Fords so any help would be much appreciated. Jerry Last edited by wahoo54; 05-05-2019 at 06:36 PM.

05-05-2019, 06:44 PM	#2
petehoovie Senior Member Join Date: May 2015 Posts: 8,144	Re: 1938 Ford 2 door hump back distributor problems Possibly the carbon brush (bottom center of coil) dropped/fell off when you removed the coil.... __________________ The only thing nice about being imperfect is the joy it brings to others.... *"Silver rings, your butt! Them's washers!"* "We shot our way out of that town for a dollar's worth of steel holes!" - from 'The Wild Bunch' - 1969 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7NReUd2_0u0

05-05-2019, 08:48 PM	#3
wahoo54 Member Join Date: Apr 2019 Posts: 51	Re: 1938 Ford 2 door hump back distributor problems There was a carbon brush on a spring that you could push up and down and it was in place. Is there a 2nd piece that can fall out? Thanks!

05-05-2019, 09:03 PM	#5
wahoo54 Member Join Date: Apr 2019 Posts: 51	Re: 1938 Ford 2 door hump back distributor problems I've removed it three times now and finally removed the plug wire so I could use a mirror to see if I was getting the copper coil onto it's contact. Looks like it is but when I put her back together, nothing. No spark. I'm scratching my head on this one.

05-05-2019, 09:06 PM	#6
4dFord/SC Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Columbia, SC Posts: 1,579	Re: 1938 Ford 2 door hump back distributor problems Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) Is power getting to the coil (i.e., with the ignition switch on, is the ignition wire hot)?

05-05-2019, 09:43 PM	#7
petehoovie Senior Member Join Date: May 2015 Posts: 8,144	Re: 1938 Ford 2 door hump back distributor problems Maybe the wire to the coil broke at its connector to the coil because of movement.... __________________ The only thing nice about being imperfect is the joy it brings to others.... *"Silver rings, your butt! Them's washers!"* "We shot our way out of that town for a dollar's worth of steel holes!" - from 'The Wild Bunch' - 1969 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7NReUd2_0u0

05-05-2019, 10:14 PM	#8
wahoo54 Member Join Date: Apr 2019 Posts: 51	Re: 1938 Ford 2 door hump back distributor problems Well shoot. I only find 3 volts there. I'll have to investigate further tomorrow. Thanks for the advice! Jerry

05-06-2019, 01:19 AM	#9
petehoovie Senior Member Join Date: May 2015 Posts: 8,144	Re: 1938 Ford 2 door hump back distributor problems If the points are closed you will measure 3 - 4 volts at the coil.... __________________ The only thing nice about being imperfect is the joy it brings to others.... *"Silver rings, your butt! Them's washers!"* "We shot our way out of that town for a dollar's worth of steel holes!" - from 'The Wild Bunch' - 1969 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7NReUd2_0u0

05-06-2019, 05:36 AM	#10
flatheadmurre Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2015 Location: Sweden Posts: 3,045	Re: 1938 Ford 2 door hump back distributor problems If the condensor was weak from start...messing around with it removing the coil may have had it finally give up... With 3 volt at coil you can tell points are closing and coil has power...so before turning every stone over again i would check the condensor...just my 2c

05-06-2019, 09:12 AM	#11
Jembow Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2013 Location: Spalding, United Kingdom Posts: 306	Re: 1938 Ford 2 door hump back distributor problems If the coil & condenser check out, take the unit off - there's not much you can do standing on your head under the hood. You only need to click off the caps, disconnect the vacuum line and undo 2 bolts. The unit is driven by a tongue that registers with a slot in the camshaft. That's offset to make sure you don't fit it 180 degrees out, so note its position before you twiddle it about. With the distributor on the bench you can check the points for condition (wear, broken springs, poor tension) & gap. Check the rotor arm for signs of tracking. Or you could just send the whole thing to someone like Bubba's Ignition and get a professional overhaul, if it looks very tired.

05-06-2019, 07:32 PM	#12
wahoo54 Member Join Date: Apr 2019 Posts: 51	Re: 1938 Ford 2 door hump back distributor problems Thanks Pethoovie. Flatheadmurre, I agree with you and ordered one. Should have it Thursday. Thanks! Jembow, so my distributor is a 2 bolt? Speedway motors has a 3 bolt electronic distributor but do sell an adapter to convert it to 2 bolt. Have any of you done this? Seems like the way to go to get longer service. Man I'd hate to have to change points on the side of the road. Jerry

05-09-2019, 11:24 PM	#13
wahoo54 Member Join Date: Apr 2019 Posts: 51	Re: 1938 Ford 2 door hump back distributor problems Jembow, so my distributor is a 2 bolt? Speedway motors has a 3 bolt electronic distributor but do sell an adapter to convert it to 2 bolt. Have any of you done this? Seems like the way to go to get longer service. Man I'd hate to have to change points on the side of the road. Jerry

05-10-2019, 03:14 AM	#14
Mart Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Solihull, England. Posts: 8,754	Re: 1938 Ford 2 door hump back distributor problems I can't speak with authority, but your distributor is not what people normally refer to as a two bolt. Again, not sure, but I think it is a three bolt distributor ("diver's helmet") but only uses two bolts to hold it on the V8-60. Can any V8-60ers confirm?

05-10-2019, 04:08 PM	#15
jimTN Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Powell, TN Posts: 2,509	Re: 1938 Ford 2 door hump back distributor problems What you have is a very dependable dist. and it does sound like a bad condensor.

05-10-2019, 07:20 PM	#16
wahoo54 Member Join Date: Apr 2019 Posts: 51	Re: 1938 Ford 2 door hump back distributor problems Thanks Mart!

05-10-2019, 07:21 PM	#18
wahoo54 Member Join Date: Apr 2019 Posts: 51	Re: 1938 Ford 2 door hump back distributor problems Have any of you used the electronic ignition?

05-11-2019, 02:51 AM	#19
Jembow Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2013 Location: Spalding, United Kingdom Posts: 306	Re: 1938 Ford 2 door hump back distributor problems I had problems getting my divers helmet to rev over 3000rpm, and you need to rev a 60 - partly cos its power is all up the top end and partly cos the factory put such a high rear axle in. So I am running a Stromberg E-fire (they sent me an adaptor but it wasn't needed, bolted straight on, 2 bolts). So far, so good, after about 1000miles, runs right up the rev range. Only problem is cold starting (although I may have a carb problem) - it seems you need a strong battery 'cos the starter robs current from the ignition. I may rig a second battery direct to the ignition for testing and see if it fires straight up. You won't need to change points at the side of the road but if the module fails, you'll be going home on a flatbed! If changing from the Ford coil, you need to bypass the resistor (on the inside of the firewall beside the fuse). BTW, anyone else have problems with the software here? Every time I post a reply, I find I have been timed out and lose everything I typed - I now copy the text, log back in and paste my response.

05-11-2019, 04:07 AM	#20
flatheadmurre Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2015 Location: Sweden Posts: 3,045	Re: 1938 Ford 2 door hump back distributor problems The points set is what makes the difference when you want to rev them old distributors...cheap points with weak springs and you got a rev limiter when the points float. That little points scale to check the tension at the points is a very usefull simple thing to verify the quality of the installed points...