Need Help with 1934 Ford Engine - Rebuild or Buy another?

[FlatheadTed]

If the motor was done 35 years ago what's the problem with it, soak the water jackets in rust remover ,soak the boars in vinegar if the pots are stuck for about two weeks then flush and fill with 50/50 traz fluid n acetone ,yiknow try and recover it ,post picture here so advice can be given ,Ted

[JSeery]

Originally Posted by FlatheadTed

If the motor was done 35 years ago what's the problem with it, soak the water jackets in rust remover ,soak the boars in vinegar if the pots are stuck for about two weeks then flush and fill with 50/50 traz fluid n acetone ,yiknow try and recover it ,post picture here so advice can be given ,Ted

That was along the lines I was thinking. Worse case might be a re-hone.

[flatheadmurre]

Just keep the rusteaters away from the babbit or they may get eaten in the process.

[johnthetruck]

Brian, I should have clarified my statement " i feel a 59A is more reliable", what I meant was most of the opinions I have been hearing so far is that many people prefer a 59A over the original motor.

Your advice is exactly why I asked the original question because I would like to see both sides of the argument since I have limited experience with this era. So far the people I have been able to talk with say get rid of the original motor since the parts are harder to acquire and more limited. But I am learning more from this post already.

I am located in Los Angeles, sorry I didn't put that originally. I wast aware how helpful people would be and able to recommend shops.

[Bored&Stroked]

Hey John - you've definitely come to the right place for experience, ideas and opinions - we have a lot of all three. You have a lot of options - kind of comes down to your vision for the car, expectations for what you want out of the engine . . . and the age old "time and money". You can go a lot of ways - all of them viable options. At least through this thread you've probably gained a broader perspective. If you need anything specific, feel free to ping me via a PM - be glad to get on the phone and save some typing! Best of luck and glad to have you on 'Dah Barn'.

B&S

[koates]

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Hi there, I can see you have already been indoctrined with the "What can I do to this thing to make it go faster and look better to modern eyes". You could think another way such as, "It will be great to preserve this car as it was built and drive it the way it was built and live the real 1930s experience". There are heaps and heaps of modified stuffed up early Ford V8s so why stuff up another one ?? The original engine will be a great asset to the car and it does not require electronic ignition, twin carbs, alternator or even hydraulic brakes for that matter. My opinion is have a go at restoring the original engine and all its original equipment. Be proud of the ownership of a scarce original Ford V8. Just watch all the guys at a car show come over and look it over. WOW, you are privileged to own such a complete car with its original engine intact. Regards, Kevin.

[V12Bill]

If the engine had been rebuilt and never run, why do you want to replace it? Take it down and check the crank, the bore and the valves. Clean up any rust as needed and run the snot out of it.
Years ago I had a 1941 Ford coupe 221 flathead.. I was driving down the road at night and came up on a 1934 Ford tudor. As I attempted to pass him, he dropped it into 2nd gear and all I saw was tail lights. He slowed down and I attempted to pass him again, only this time I was ready for him, or so I thought. I was in 2nd gear already and when he dropped it into 2nd gear I thought I would have him. Again nothing but tail lights. We stopped and talked and decided to start from a dead stop to 60 or 70 mph at another location. Again nothing but taillights. I saw the engine and it was a stock water pump in head style with one carb and one tail pipe. Don't under estimate the 21 stud water pump in head engine.

[trevo]

Stay original would be my call I love my little 221 they look great with finned heads twin carbs and for reliability go electronic and they can wind up I have been in Brian's car it flies for a heavy sedan and what's wrong with Babbitt Bearings?

[Keystone 34 3w]

I drive three different 34's all with 21 stud engines. Most people that follow me on the Hyways believe I have a modern drive train!

[FrankWest]

Best to keep original... Hard to find an original 33/34 engine! Don't trash it.
AS Kevin said, enjoy the original 1933/34 experience. Dillinger used these 33/34 cars as getaway cars for Bank Jobs...
Imagine outrunning the cop car in your 33/34 v8 when the cops used model A's. These cars are old and a part of american folk lore, to monkey with the power train distorts all that. When I was looking for a 1933 2 years ago, I almost bought it but when I found out it had a 1935 engine..I didn't...Somehow it took away from the 1933/34 experience.

[Dave D]

I have both engines in my cars and my 21 stud has been reliable as a hammer. It sounds like it would be a LOT cheaper to refurbish what you have or at the very least tear it down prior to deciding.

[johnthetruck]

Thank you everyone for your advice. Two big questions:

1. Can anyone recommend someone who still works on flatheads in the Los Angeles area? I would like them to be able to look it over/take it apart and give me an honest opinion as to if it is good enough condition to be rebuilt or run.

2. What have you found works the best to remove rust? When I removed the cylinder heads they have a lot of rust in them and I was going to soak them. Also what is the best way to soak the water galleys? Just plug the lower water outlet and fill it up with rust remover?

My preference would be to keep the original motor, but i was under the assumption it could to costly and hard to get parts. Based on what you have said here I will have it looked over to see if it is still in good condition.

I do not have the expertise to take it part and know what to look for or put it back together. My experience is rather limited to being able to replace the fairly easier parts like the water pumps cylinder heads etc. Stuff that I can just unbolt and bolt back on.

Thank you,

[Lawrie]

Lots of help in the LA area,motors, try H and H in east LA,
Lawrie

[cmbrucew]

Originally Posted by johnthetruck

Thank you everyone for your advice. Two big questions:

1. Can anyone recommend someone who still works on flatheads in the Los Angeles area? I would like them to be able to look it over/take it apart and give me an honest opinion as to if it is good enough condition to be rebuilt or run.

2. What have you found works the best to remove rust? When I removed the cylinder heads they have a lot of rust in them and I was going to soak them. Also what is the best way to soak the water galleys? Just plug the lower water outlet and fill it up with rust remover?

My preference would be to keep the original motor, but i was under the assumption it could to costly and hard to get parts. Based on what you have said here I will have it looked over to see if it is still in good condition.

I do not have the expertise to take it part and know what to look for or put it back together. My experience is rather limited to being able to replace the fairly easier parts like the water pumps cylinder heads etc. Stuff that I can just unbolt and bolt back on.

Thank you,

H&H flatheads in La Crescenta is close to you. The second generation same place. 818 248 2371 Mike Herman
Call him, he will be able to steer you right.
Bruce

[Bored&Stroked]

Yeah - Mike is great people and has done a lot for the overall 'Flathead World'. If it wasn't for him, we'd probably no longer have Navarro heads, Austin intakes and other gear (in addition to building engines). Also, he can surely build any of them - from mild to wild, so you'll just need to determine the best path (once you have your engine checked out). If you decide to NOT use your original engine, let me know . . . best of luck!