The Ford Barn

V8COOPMAN · 02-01-2022, 07:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tom1948

welcome to te barn. matt @iron trap garage is a good source for flathead information, he's on youtube, you'll find his contact info there

While MATT at "Iron Trap Garage" is entertaining, I don't believe I'd suggest him as a "good source for flathead information"!

Now MART on YouTube......He's all the source you need for "good flathead information"! And, HE's very entertaining, TOO! DD

.

deuce_roadster · 02-01-2022, 07:50 PM

Welcome from one deuce roadster owner to another! While my car was a late 40s hot rod (but not channeled) it too had the Pontiac tail lights which had plastic lenses from the GM factory so I would say what you have is period correct. If it were mine I would try to keep it just like Dad had it. You have a GREAT car to start with.
The previous owner of my car loaned it to some high school kids and one was killed when they wrecked it. (The newspaper story and pictures are in my 32 album) Upset, the guy who owned it pushed the car out in the rain in 1949 to rot into the ground and it was acquired at the estate sale after the guy died in 1983 by a friend who after closer inspection decided he couldn't fix it and sold to me. I had to weld about 10" all the way around the car, get another frame, make sills and use a coupe floor to fix mine. This was long before you could buy nice replacement panels.

I am envious of your starting point!!! As others have stated your block is probably repairable. Maybe someone will suggest a reputable machine shop in your area.

Keep us posted on your progress.

Sparky79 · 02-01-2022, 08:57 PM

+1 on V8COOPMANS feelings after watching both, more so Marts work, Mart goes as far as showing you how to get a broken bolt out of a block to starting with a bare frame. Haven't missed a week yet since he started doing his videos. I'm happy my massive honey do list is about caught up so I can use the bits I've learned soon. Nice car anyways I would run it as is its yours after it goes then modify if you find bits you need to change.

48fordnut · 02-02-2022, 06:32 AM

Welcome aboard to some excellent advice. Great site.

jim

dad's deuce roadster · 02-02-2022, 08:32 AM

My continuing thanks for all the advice, and the good stories, especially deuce roadsters history on his car. From what I've heard here and some hunting on the web, plus the fact that while the crack reaches the bore it doesn't feel as if it started down it, there's hope for repair. That said, my brother texted the photo to Mark Moriarty whose advice was find another block. He believes he has a good later one, vertical distributor, which my brother will go to check out. No decision yet.

It's a tough call. I like the older engine in general and it is what it ran with. On the other hand, since it will be a full rebuild, it's a lot of bucks to drop if a repair fails. Long term, I'm not opposed to both, i.e. go with a known good block to get rolling, and then repair the other for the future.

My only regret - when my grandfather retired and sold his garage business, I didn't buy his welder. Not that I wanted the welder. But it had it's own generator which was driven by late model flathead V8.

sugarmaker · 02-02-2022, 08:59 AM

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

dad's deuce roadster,
Welcome! I am for sure a newbie here too. Have gotten lots of help and constructive suggestions also. Yes I have had the "light" police after me too!

Great that you are working on this family car, with your brother and Dad too. Awesome 32! Looking forward to following your progress also.
Going through similar cracked block issue on my 4 cylinder B engine. Machine shop did not find the crack leaking but will sleeve and stitch it also just to be sure we have a good leak free block for a long time.

Charlie what time does the swap meet open?? Might be a nice trip. Might try to round up some locals to go up there. Haven't been to a swap meet in about 40 years. Maybe its time again?

Regards,
Chris

TJ · 02-02-2022, 11:31 AM

Looks like a great old '32 roadster and a family jewel. The only suggestions I have would be to move the pedal assembly back to the frame and off the firewall. i would also remove the rear shocks and have the upper mounting go to the frame. Having them mounted to the sheetmetal of the inner fender panels is not very strong and with the wrong wheel offset can rub on the inner part of the tires.

deuce_roadster · 02-02-2022, 11:50 AM

ANY block you choose to build should pass several tests, at minimum a mag test, sonic test and pressure test. There can be fatal flaws where you cannot see them. I know of a 59 series block a friend had that passed mag and sonic tests and under pressure with soapy water, bubbles came out of an intake or exhaust port that made it look like a bubble machine.

38 coupe · 02-04-2022, 09:39 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by V8COOPMAN

Funny....I just wrote about that last week. Click the link BELOW! DD
https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showp...9&postcount=12
.

While you describe the pencil test you missed some of the details. All prewar 221 and 239 blocks pass the pencil test, both 21 and 24 stud. Also, you left out the 1938 24 stud blocks (a one year only odd one with the late 21 stud size mains and crankshaft). Attached is a 38 engine passing the pencil test. Also attached is a pdf of all the various features that I am aware of needed to positively identify what USA production block you have.

Bored&Stroked · 02-04-2022, 02:02 PM

Thanks for posting the block picture. If the machine shop knows how to use IronTite stitching plugs, then they should be able to easily stitch that crack.

If it was mine, I would probably sleeve it anyway - just to make sure (but let the machine shop make the call). In many cases the crack will go under the valve seat, so the hard seat would then be taken out BEFORE the stitching process and then a new seat put in afterwards. After the stitching process, the block should be pressure tested - if the shop doesn't have the necessary equipment to pressure test it, then find somebody who does.

Post a picture of the entire deck surface - will help us identify the engine. Also, what is the current bore size?

dad's deuce roadster · 02-24-2022, 08:48 PM

Guys, obviously I let this drop for a while though you may have seen some other posts for various questions. We have found another block, an 8AB, which passed mag. I'll have to see about a pressure test on it was as suggested. We'll keep the other block and see about a repair in the future. Looking into all the other advice too. I guess I'll make this the running restoration progress thread. Other than engine status, about all that's clearly done to date is a lot of parts cleaning, most of the wiring, brakes redone front to back, rims cleaned and painted and 50's rod correct 6" wide Coker tires which match exactly the tread pattern of the tires that were on it.

dad's deuce roadster · 07-30-2022, 12:26 PM

Just a quick update to the thread though some of this is in others. While waiting for our 8BA engine build which is delayed by summer racing season we opted to build the 59A with the small crack. As most parts we put in to the build will be reusable if it doesn't pan out, the cost risk was minimal, and we're learning a lot in the process. And our father is not getting any younger, so it will be nice to get him for run while waiting for a possibly more reliable engine. A couple photos show the state and as they say, a picture is worth 1000 words. So, I'll let the photos talk.

petehoovie · 07-30-2022, 12:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dad's deuce roadster

Just a quick update to the thread though some of this is in others. While waiting for our 8BA engine build which is delayed by summer racing season we opted to build the 59A with the small crack. As most parts we put in to the build will be reusable if it doesn't pan out, the cost risk was minimal, and we're learning a lot in the process. And our father is not getting any younger, so it will be nice to get him for run while waiting for a possibly more reliable engine. A couple photos show the state and as they say, a picture is worth 1000 words. So, I'll let the photos talk.

dad's deuce roadster · 07-30-2022, 01:02 PM

Thanks for moving the photos straight into the post for me. First one does have an artistic appeal.

dad's deuce roadster · 07-30-2022, 01:46 PM

And a couple engine shots. Sorry, haven't figured out how to post them in directly. But if it requires being on FB or something like that, I'm a ludite. Navarro intake will soon be on with dual 97's

petehoovie · 07-30-2022, 01:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dad's deuce roadster

And a couple engine shots. Sorry, haven't figured out how to post them in directly. But if it requires being on FB or something like that, I'm a ludite. Navarro intake will soon be on with dual 97's

tubman · 07-30-2022, 02:17 PM

That engine looks good to me! When I was in college, I drove a '52 flathead V8 back and forth to school. When I re-ringed it, it had 7 (seven) cracks between the valves and cylinders. I shrugged my shoulders and put it back together. It got me through college and the first year of grad school and was still running when I sold it.

Ricosan · 07-30-2022, 03:29 PM

Welcome to the barn. I love that you have a chance to re-restore your dad’s roadster. It looks like you are on your way.
Like that engine!

Richard

dad's deuce roadster · 07-30-2022, 08:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tubman

That engine looks good to me! When I was in college, I drove a '52 flathead V8 back and forth to school. When I re-ringed it, it had 7 (seven) cracks between the valves and cylinders. I shrugged my shoulders and put it back together. It got me through college and the first year of grad school and was still running when I sold it.

That certainly puts our 1 crack in perspective. Hopefully it bodes well for the rebuild. Thanks for sharing the story.

jimTN · 07-31-2022, 02:51 PM

It appears to be an early block, at least there are no visible marks in the bellhousing pic. Also has the earlier distributor, 40 or older. What is the bore size? Ron has it right about the repair. While you are nosing around in the parts, check the nose of your cam for markings, might have a hot cam.

02-01-2022, 07:50 PM	#22
deuce_roadster Senior Member Join Date: Oct 2011 Location: Shelton, WA Posts: 3,802	Re: My intro - and I'll probably have a flathead question tomorrow Welcome from one deuce roadster owner to another! While my car was a late 40s hot rod (but not channeled) it too had the Pontiac tail lights which had plastic lenses from the GM factory so I would say what you have is period correct. If it were mine I would try to keep it just like Dad had it. You have a GREAT car to start with. The previous owner of my car loaned it to some high school kids and one was killed when they wrecked it. (The newspaper story and pictures are in my 32 album) Upset, the guy who owned it pushed the car out in the rain in 1949 to rot into the ground and it was acquired at the estate sale after the guy died in 1983 by a friend who after closer inspection decided he couldn't fix it and sold to me. I had to weld about 10" all the way around the car, get another frame, make sills and use a coupe floor to fix mine. This was long before you could buy nice replacement panels. I am envious of your starting point!!! As others have stated your block is probably repairable. Maybe someone will suggest a reputable machine shop in your area. Keep us posted on your progress.

02-01-2022, 08:57 PM	#23
Sparky79 Member Join Date: Mar 2018 Location: Lower NY Posts: 43	Re: My intro - and I'll probably have a flathead question tomorrow +1 on V8COOPMANS feelings after watching both, more so Marts work, Mart goes as far as showing you how to get a broken bolt out of a block to starting with a bare frame. Haven't missed a week yet since he started doing his videos. I'm happy my massive honey do list is about caught up so I can use the bits I've learned soon. Nice car anyways I would run it as is its yours after it goes then modify if you find bits you need to change.

02-02-2022, 06:32 AM	#24
48fordnut Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2010 Location: warner robins ga 31088 Posts: 494	Re: My intro - and I'll probably have a flathead question tomorrow Welcome aboard to some excellent advice. Great site. jim

02-02-2022, 08:32 AM	#25
dad's deuce roadster Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2022 Location: PA Posts: 106	Re: My intro - and I'll probably have a flathead question tomorrow My continuing thanks for all the advice, and the good stories, especially deuce roadsters history on his car. From what I've heard here and some hunting on the web, plus the fact that while the crack reaches the bore it doesn't feel as if it started down it, there's hope for repair. That said, my brother texted the photo to Mark Moriarty whose advice was find another block. He believes he has a good later one, vertical distributor, which my brother will go to check out. No decision yet. It's a tough call. I like the older engine in general and it is what it ran with. On the other hand, since it will be a full rebuild, it's a lot of bucks to drop if a repair fails. Long term, I'm not opposed to both, i.e. go with a known good block to get rolling, and then repair the other for the future. My only regret - when my grandfather retired and sold his garage business, I didn't buy his welder. Not that I wanted the welder. But it had it's own generator which was driven by late model flathead V8.

02-02-2022, 08:59 AM	#26
sugarmaker Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2016 Location: Albion PA Posts: 1,680	Re: My intro - and I'll probably have a flathead question tomorrow Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) dad's deuce roadster, Welcome! I am for sure a newbie here too. Have gotten lots of help and constructive suggestions also. Yes I have had the "light" police after me too! Great that you are working on this family car, with your brother and Dad too. Awesome 32! Looking forward to following your progress also. Going through similar cracked block issue on my 4 cylinder B engine. Machine shop did not find the crack leaking but will sleeve and stitch it also just to be sure we have a good leak free block for a long time. Charlie what time does the swap meet open?? Might be a nice trip. Might try to round up some locals to go up there. Haven't been to a swap meet in about 40 years. Maybe its time again? Regards, Chris __________________ 1932 AAB Truck 1953 Ford Jubilee 2015 Ford F250 SuperCrew Lots of Allis tractors Some Cub Cadets Last edited by sugarmaker; 02-02-2022 at 09:06 AM.

02-02-2022, 11:31 AM	#27
TJ Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Napa,California Posts: 6,042	Re: My intro - and I'll probably have a flathead question tomorrow Looks like a great old '32 roadster and a family jewel. The only suggestions I have would be to move the pedal assembly back to the frame and off the firewall. i would also remove the rear shocks and have the upper mounting go to the frame. Having them mounted to the sheetmetal of the inner fender panels is not very strong and with the wrong wheel offset can rub on the inner part of the tires.

02-02-2022, 11:50 AM	#28
deuce_roadster Senior Member Join Date: Oct 2011 Location: Shelton, WA Posts: 3,802	Re: My intro - and I'll probably have a flathead question tomorrow ANY block you choose to build should pass several tests, at minimum a mag test, sonic test and pressure test. There can be fatal flaws where you cannot see them. I know of a 59 series block a friend had that passed mag and sonic tests and under pressure with soapy water, bubbles came out of an intake or exhaust port that made it look like a bubble machine.

02-04-2022, 02:02 PM	#30
Bored&Stroked Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2011 Location: Central Ohio Posts: 5,079	Re: My intro - and I'll probably have a flathead question tomorrow Thanks for posting the block picture. If the machine shop knows how to use IronTite stitching plugs, then they should be able to easily stitch that crack. If it was mine, I would probably sleeve it anyway - just to make sure (but let the machine shop make the call). In many cases the crack will go under the valve seat, so the hard seat would then be taken out BEFORE the stitching process and then a new seat put in afterwards. After the stitching process, the block should be pressure tested - if the shop doesn't have the necessary equipment to pressure test it, then find somebody who does. Post a picture of the entire deck surface - will help us identify the engine. Also, what is the current bore size?

07-30-2022, 01:02 PM	#34
dad's deuce roadster Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2022 Location: PA Posts: 106	Re: My intro - and I'll probably have a flathead question tomorrow Thanks for moving the photos straight into the post for me. First one does have an artistic appeal.

07-30-2022, 02:17 PM	#37
tubman Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2013 Location: Minnesota, Florida Keys Posts: 10,330	Re: My intro - and I'll probably have a flathead question tomorrow That engine looks good to me! When I was in college, I drove a '52 flathead V8 back and forth to school. When I re-ringed it, it had 7 (seven) cracks between the valves and cylinders. I shrugged my shoulders and put it back together. It got me through college and the first year of grad school and was still running when I sold it.

07-30-2022, 03:29 PM	#38
Ricosan Senior Member Join Date: May 2018 Location: Tallahassee Posts: 375	Re: My intro - and I'll probably have a flathead question tomorrow Welcome to the barn. I love that you have a chance to re-restore your dad’s roadster. It looks like you are on your way. Like that engine! Richard

07-31-2022, 02:51 PM	#40
jimTN Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Powell, TN Posts: 2,509	Re: My intro - and I'll probably have a flathead question tomorrow It appears to be an early block, at least there are no visible marks in the bellhousing pic. Also has the earlier distributor, 40 or older. What is the bore size? Ron has it right about the repair. While you are nosing around in the parts, check the nose of your cam for markings, might have a hot cam.