The Ford Barn

Chris Haynes · 01-31-2018, 04:51 PM

It's .125 over so sleeves will restore it's virginity. A crack between the valve seat and bore will be knitted. Deck the top. Then proceed with the inserts, Riley, ETC.

California Travieso · 01-31-2018, 07:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Chris Haynes

It's. 125 over so sleeves will restore it's virginity. A crack between the valve seat and bore will be knitted. Deck the top. Then proceed with the inserts, Riley, ETC.

Chris,

Do you already have a a Riley OHV head?

David Serrano

johnneilson · 01-31-2018, 07:58 PM

Chris,

Make sure the sleeves are stepped in the block to make sure they don't drop.
And make sure to break the sharp edge on the bottom if the pistons skirts sweep past the edge.

I sure hope you got a deal on the block, J

Chris Haynes · 01-31-2018, 08:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by California Travieso

Chris,

Do you already have a a Riley OHV head?

David Serrano

I have the reproduction Riley.

Chris Haynes · 01-31-2018, 08:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by johnneilson

Chris,

Make sure the sleeves are stepped in the block to make sure they don't drop.
And make sure to break the sharp edge on the bottom if the pistons skirts sweep past the edge.

I sure hope you got a deal on the block, J

The block was a iffy as I could see the large bore and crack. So I gambled $350.00 and bought it. If it passes a pressure test I will be happy.

Purdy Swoft · 01-31-2018, 08:18 PM

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No harm meant . To save a bunch of money and troubles after the fact , I really believe that you would be better off to look for a better core that wouldn't require sleeving all four cylinders . Big bore is no problem. One hundred and twenty five thousants is already at the practical max . Just my thoughts Good luck whatever .

Chris Haynes · 02-01-2018, 01:12 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Purdy Swoft

I really believe that you would be better off to look for a better core that wouldn't require sleeving all four cylinders .

I wish I could find one. It took nearly a year to find this one. Guys with "B" blocks don't want to part company with them. I know one guy who says he has 20 "B" engines and blocks and he won't part with one.

Tom Wesenberg · 02-01-2018, 09:13 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Chris Haynes

I wish I could find one. It took nearly a year to find this one. Guys with "B" blocks don't want to part company with them. I know one guy who says he has 20 "B" engines and blocks and he won't part with one.

He'll die with them.

johnneilson · 02-01-2018, 09:26 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tom Wesenberg

He'll die with them.

very true dat

afterward, they will show up on Evil bay

Marshall V. Daut · 02-01-2018, 09:47 AM

"He'll die with them."

If this guy has 20 Model "B" blocks, he'll probably die of a CRACK overdose.
Marshall

Railcarmover · 02-01-2018, 09:53 AM

.125 and cracked? and youre going to fix it and run a 5k head?...well,your signature line is right.speed does cost money..in your case lots of money,lots and lots of money. Did that anchor come with a C crank?

BILL WILLIAMSON · 02-01-2018, 11:11 AM

Dog here,
Remember, once CRACKED, always CRACKED & CRACKING
Buster T. Iwarnedyou

Purdy Swoft · 02-01-2018, 11:24 AM

Again , good luck with your B block . Be sure to give plenty of piston to cylinder wall clearance and ring gap . Clearance will help it run cooler and faster !!! Hopefully it won't run too hot .

Jim Brierley · 02-01-2018, 12:40 PM

Nothing wrong with a 4" bore, if they are round and straight I would use as-is. 4" is the first thing racers did, some went as far as 4.060" but this requires moving the center-line to give room between cylinders for the gasket. As Purdy says, give plenty of clearance.

Purdy Swoft · 02-01-2018, 01:18 PM

My biggest concern would be heat transfer with a sleeved engine . Sleeves can't transfer heat as well as the original cylinder walls . The water jacket doesn't extend very far on the A & B engines and doesn't cool the full length of the cylinder nearly as well as later engines.

Railcarmover · 02-01-2018, 01:32 PM

The only heat transfer issue created by sleeving is the friction of.your dollars leaving your wallet.

Chris Haynes · 02-01-2018, 01:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BILL WILLIAMSON

Dog here,
Remember, once CRACKED, always CRACKED & CRACKING
Buster T. Iwarnedyou

Bill,
I'm having the crack pinned. Fortunately it is on an intake valve that won't be used with the Riley head.

Chris Haynes · 02-01-2018, 01:52 PM

[QUOTE=Railcarmover;1587102]

I have a NOS Eubanks crank.

Chris Haynes · 02-01-2018, 01:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tom Wesenberg

He'll die with them.

He buys estates of Ford cars and parts. He makes his living selling parts and working on cars. Trying to get a part from him is difficult at best.

hardtimes · 02-01-2018, 02:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Chris Haynes

He buys estates of Ford cars and parts. He makes his living selling parts and working on cars. Trying to get a part from him is difficult at best.

Yeah, I know this guy...well I thought at one time that I knew this guy. You evaluation is right on, IMO ! I think that Jim B has good info that he stated. Nothing wrong with 4" bore and there is good to be gained by such big bore...namely power, which is what you/me/others are
spending for/ striving for,eh ! Otherwise, stay with stock bore A engine/block.

All my engines, that I build have 4" bore, but starting out with the BEST B block that you can get is important ! Cracks can be and are repaired satisfactorily , but I'd rather not start there.

'Speed costs, how fast do you can to go'...is a truism learned one way or the other. Doesn't mean that we can't be smart with spending our $. I think that it is a disease/itch that can't be scratched

!

Sometimes PATIENCE is less costly. This I've learned and occasionally.. still do not listen to myself

!

HEY TOD...where the heck are you with the 5x5 new iron blocks

!!
BTW Chris...I've sent you a PM.

01-31-2018, 04:51 PM	#1
Chris Haynes Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Camarillo, CA and Pine Grove, CA Posts: 2,832	My "B" Block needs a bit of work. It's .125 over so sleeves will restore it's virginity. A crack between the valve seat and bore will be knitted. Deck the top. Then proceed with the inserts, Riley, ETC. __________________ 1921 Runabout 1930 Tudor Early 1930 AA Speed costs money. How fast do you want to go? Last edited by Chris Haynes; 02-01-2018 at 01:08 AM.

01-31-2018, 07:58 PM	#3
johnneilson Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: 34.22 N 118.36 W Posts: 1,057	Re: My "B" Block needs a bit of work. Chris, Make sure the sleeves are stepped in the block to make sure they don't drop. And make sure to break the sharp edge on the bottom if the pistons skirts sweep past the edge. I sure hope you got a deal on the block, J __________________ As Carroll Smith wrote; All Failures are Human in Origin.

01-31-2018, 08:18 PM	#6
Purdy Swoft Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Alabama Posts: 8,099	Re: My "B" Block needs a bit of work. Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) No harm meant . To save a bunch of money and troubles after the fact , I really believe that you would be better off to look for a better core that wouldn't require sleeving all four cylinders . Big bore is no problem. One hundred and twenty five thousants is already at the practical max . Just my thoughts Good luck whatever . Last edited by Purdy Swoft; 01-31-2018 at 08:43 PM. Reason: spelling

02-01-2018, 09:47 AM	#10
Marshall V. Daut Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2011 Location: Davenport, Iowa Posts: 2,112	Re: My "B" Block needs a bit of work. "He'll die with them." If this guy has 20 Model "B" blocks, he'll probably die of a CRACK overdose. Marshall

02-01-2018, 09:53 AM	#11
Railcarmover BANNED Join Date: Apr 2017 Location: Sacramento Posts: 1,262	Re: My "B" Block needs a bit of work. .125 and cracked? and youre going to fix it and run a 5k head?...well,your signature line is right.speed does cost money..in your case lots of money,lots and lots of money. Did that anchor come with a C crank?

02-01-2018, 11:11 AM	#12
BILL WILLIAMSON Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2010 Location: FRESNO, CA Posts: 12,560	Re: My "B" Block needs a bit of work. Dog here, Remember, once CRACKED, always CRACKED & CRACKING Buster T. Iwarnedyou __________________ "THE ASSISTANT GURU OF STUFF"

02-01-2018, 11:24 AM	#13
Purdy Swoft Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Alabama Posts: 8,099	Re: My "B" Block needs a bit of work. Again , good luck with your B block . Be sure to give plenty of piston to cylinder wall clearance and ring gap . Clearance will help it run cooler and faster !!! Hopefully it won't run too hot .

02-01-2018, 12:40 PM	#14
Jim Brierley Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: Temecula, CA Posts: 4,092	Re: My "B" Block needs a bit of work. Nothing wrong with a 4" bore, if they are round and straight I would use as-is. 4" is the first thing racers did, some went as far as 4.060" but this requires moving the center-line to give room between cylinders for the gasket. As Purdy says, give plenty of clearance.

02-01-2018, 01:18 PM	#15
Purdy Swoft Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Alabama Posts: 8,099	Re: My "B" Block needs a bit of work. My biggest concern would be heat transfer with a sleeved engine . Sleeves can't transfer heat as well as the original cylinder walls . The water jacket doesn't extend very far on the A & B engines and doesn't cool the full length of the cylinder nearly as well as later engines.

02-01-2018, 01:32 PM	#16
Railcarmover BANNED Join Date: Apr 2017 Location: Sacramento Posts: 1,262	Re: My "B" Block needs a bit of work. The only heat transfer issue created by sleeving is the friction of.your dollars leaving your wallet.

02-01-2018, 01:52 PM	#18
Chris Haynes Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Camarillo, CA and Pine Grove, CA Posts: 2,832	Re: My "B" Block needs a bit of work. [QUOTE=Railcarmover;1587102] I have a NOS Eubanks crank. __________________ 1921 Runabout 1930 Tudor Early 1930 AA Speed costs money. How fast do you want to go?